Big, Jammy Reds….
That has been my impression of South Australian wines since I was introduced to them with all of the rest of you years ago when they first broke into the American wine scene. Sometimes I can get myself interested in a big, juicy Shiraz, but it’s not usually my favorite. It’s so much not my favorite that when I was planning my trip, I almost skipped visiting the wine regions near Adelaide because I really felt the wines were nothing special. But….I reasoned…..if one is going to Australia and part of the trip is focused on wine, how can you skip the Barossa? It just didn’t seem right. So, I forged ahead and planned some time in Adelaide. My wine tasting landed on the Barossa and McLaren Vale.
To begin, I will confess that I took an organized tour of like-minded tasters out to each area, and I left the decision on the regions to visit to my tour guides. I am not always a fan of the organized tour. I like to do my own thing. And, when my friends were with me and we were doing some tasting in New Zealand, we did do our own thing based on recommendations of industry contacts and friends. But, I didn’t have the time to do a lot of research on these regions and, thus, I wasn’t too sure what “my own thing” here would be exactly. Left to my own devices, I would probably just end up at the bigger, high production places that we all know and love….or hate. So, I decided that I would rely on the people who lived and work here to direct me to the best regions and the best representations of the regions.
It was a good strategy.
I hired “Perfect Blend Tours” to take me out to McLaren Vale and “Cellar Door Tours” to take me out to the Barossa. Thanks to Russell and Tim, who proved to be excellent and informative tour guides, I got out to some of the lesser known…..and more interesting……vineyards. It was a great education on the wines of Southern Australia.
I would be lying if I didn’t tell you that I did have my fair share of juicy Syrahs, or “Shiraz’”, as the Australians call it. It’s the signature wine of this region, after all. The terrior as well as the general customer demands this style of wine. But, just as in other regions in my own area, the climate is changing and the winemakers are adjusting. And, there are some very creative winemakers that are just looking to do something a bit more interesting. I found a few such people here.
My biggest revelation was that I didn’t find only Syrah, as I expected. I’m not sure why I thought this would be the case.
Silly me.
What I found in both regions were Rhone varietals. It makes sense, of course. With Syrah comes Mourvedre (Mataro in Aussie speak), Grenache, and blends made with those grapes. I also learned that the Clare Valley does a great deal of Reisling. The climate in that area is right for Reisling. There was a large German population in the whole area, the Barossa in particular, and when they discovered the favorable climate, they introduced the Reisling. I did get some of the Reisling from Clare Valley vineyards at 2 of the wineries where we stopped and it was fabulous. I also found interspersed in my tastings some Italian varietals as well as some Spanish varietals. In the end, it was quite like tasting in my area of California with the same varietals and an interesting mix of styles.
To me, the most notable wines in McLaren Vale came from Chapel Hill Wines…
…..and Hugo. Chapel Hill had a Mourvedre that I thought was outstanding. And, I did a reserve tasting there
……where the “Gorge Block Cabernet” and “The Vicar Syrah” competed for my attention. The Syrah had a much more elegant style than we are used to with the typical Australian imports that we get in the United States. I was close to buying something here, but how would I get it home?
I liked everything I had at Hugo, but they had a new release 2017 Grenache that they were pouring for special guests that knocked my socks off. I’m still thinking about it and wishing I had purchased it.
We also visited “The Cube….
……a new and innovative tasting room done by the D’Arenburg family. Does this look familiar? It’s patterned after the Rubik’s cube. The tasting room rivaled MONA, the museum that I saw in Hobart, for unusual and creative art. This was part of the display that gets you ready for a tasting of the wine.
You squeeze the bulbs and the scent of whatever is in the glass comes out. It’s probably on of the most unusual sensory experiences I havc seen at a winery. The Arenbury family owns and operates this, but they have gotten a fair amount of money from the government to build it and keep it going. It brings in a lot of tourists…not only to this facility, but to the area as a whole.
The Barossa was probably the biggest surprise I had. We went to 4 places. They were all different and they were all excellent. At Murray Road…..
…..we tasted two 2006 single vineyard Syrahs that were very different from each other. One had begun to take on the tobacco and leather characteristics of an older wine. It finished with a layer of delicious light fruit. The other had a much more dark and juicy fruit quality. Both were an unexpected delight!
We stopped next at a place called Tscharke’s.
The owner/winemaker, Tscharke, was our host. His wines were fantastic and they were priced somewhere between $10 and $15 Australian for a bottle. He has fine-tuned his winemaking and aging process with production efficiencies that allow him to charge less per bottle. We figured he makes his money by selling more bottles at the lower price than by selling just a few at the higher price. He doesn’t care about the pretense of expensive wine. He cares about taste. In additon to the usual suspects, he was also working with Italian varietals. My only purchase of the 2 days was here. I bought a 2015 Montepulciano that was so unique that I couldn’t pass it by. It had an earthy, almost “barnyard” feel about it. I can’t say that I have ever had anything like it.
If I lived in Australia, I would join his wine club. You can’t beat his creativity and the price per bottle.
The other standout was Rusden.
They were very small and some of their production techniques were quite primitive. This was the machine used for pressing. It’s a high pressure affair and had exploded on them a few times lately. We had to get special permission to get close to it.
All of the Rusden wines were outstanding, but the highlight for me was the Mourvedre. Believe it or not, they also had a Zinfandel. It was the only one I saw in all of the tastings we did. It was good….and a little jammy….not quite at California standards. But, it was fruity.
We ended our day in the Barossa with a small upstart winery headed by Peter Lehman’s son, David Franz.
For those of you who don’t know, Peter Lehman was the founder of one of the major wineries in the Barossa that still bears his name. It’s still there, but has been purchased by one of the large wine management groups. David was quite a character. Very fun! We had a rose that was made with 108 different grape varietals. They were all printed on the bottle.
It wasn’t my favorite. But, I’m guessing it is or will be someone’s favorite! But, it was certainly unique.
So, my final call on the Barossa was quite different from where I started at the beginning of my tour. Just as with people, you can’t always “judge a book by its cover”…..or reputation as it were. Sometimes it’s worth a second look to see if there is something beyond the surface. As I have found with people, it doesn’t always happen, but it’s such a pleasant surprise when it does.













































































































