Big, Jammy Reds….

April 4, 2018

Big, Jammy Reds….

That has been my impression of South Australian wines since I was introduced to them with all of the rest of you years ago when they first broke into the American wine scene. Sometimes I can get myself interested in a big, juicy Shiraz, but it’s not usually my favorite. It’s so much not my favorite that when I was planning my trip, I almost skipped visiting the wine regions near Adelaide because I really felt the wines were nothing special. But….I reasoned…..if one is going to Australia and part of the trip is focused on wine, how can you skip the Barossa? It just didn’t seem right. So, I forged ahead and planned some time in Adelaide. My wine tasting landed on the Barossa and McLaren Vale.

To begin, I will confess that I took an organized tour of like-minded tasters out to each area, and I left the decision on the regions to visit to my tour guides. I am not always a fan of the organized tour. I like to do my own thing. And, when my friends were with me and we were doing some tasting in New Zealand, we did do our own thing based on recommendations of industry contacts and friends. But, I didn’t have the time to do a lot of research on these regions and, thus, I wasn’t too sure what “my own thing” here would be exactly. Left to my own devices, I would probably just end up at the bigger, high production places that we all know and love….or hate. So, I decided that I would rely on the people who lived and work here to direct me to the best regions and the best representations of the regions.

It was a good strategy.

I hired “Perfect Blend Tours” to take me out to McLaren Vale and “Cellar Door Tours” to take me out to the Barossa. Thanks to Russell and Tim, who proved to be excellent and informative tour guides, I got out to some of the lesser known…..and more interesting……vineyards. It was a great education on the wines of Southern Australia.

I would be lying if I didn’t tell you that I did have my fair share of juicy Syrahs, or “Shiraz’”, as the Australians call it. It’s the signature wine of this region, after all. The terrior as well as the general customer demands this style of wine. But, just as in other regions in my own area, the climate is changing and the winemakers are adjusting. And, there are some very creative winemakers that are just looking to do something a bit more interesting. I found a few such people here.

My biggest revelation was that I didn’t find only Syrah, as I expected. I’m not sure why I thought this would be the case.

Silly me.

What I found in both regions were Rhone varietals. It makes sense, of course. With Syrah comes Mourvedre (Mataro in Aussie speak), Grenache, and blends made with those grapes. I also learned that the Clare Valley does a great deal of Reisling. The climate in that area is right for Reisling. There was a large German population in the whole area, the Barossa in particular, and when they discovered the favorable climate, they introduced the Reisling. I did get some of the Reisling from Clare Valley vineyards at 2 of the wineries where we stopped and it was fabulous. I also found interspersed in my tastings some Italian varietals as well as some Spanish varietals. In the end, it was quite like tasting in my area of California with the same varietals and an interesting mix of styles.

To me, the most notable wines in McLaren Vale came from Chapel Hill Wines…

…..and Hugo. Chapel Hill had a Mourvedre that I thought was outstanding. And, I did a reserve tasting there

……where the “Gorge Block Cabernet” and “The Vicar Syrah” competed for my attention. The Syrah had a much more elegant style than we are used to with the typical Australian imports that we get in the United States. I was close to buying something here, but how would I get it home?

I liked everything I had at Hugo, but they had a new release 2017 Grenache that they were pouring for special guests that knocked my socks off. I’m still thinking about it and wishing I had purchased it.

We also visited “The Cube….

……a new and innovative tasting room done by the D’Arenburg family. Does this look familiar?  It’s patterned after the Rubik’s cube. The tasting room rivaled MONA, the museum that I saw in Hobart, for unusual and creative art. This was part of the display that gets you ready for a tasting of the wine.

You squeeze the bulbs and the scent of whatever is in the glass comes out.  It’s probably on of the most unusual sensory experiences I havc seen at a winery. The Arenbury family owns and operates this, but they have gotten a fair amount of money from the government to build it and keep it going. It brings in a lot of tourists…not only to this facility, but to the area as a whole.

The Barossa was probably the biggest surprise I had.   We went to 4 places. They were all different and they were all excellent. At Murray Road…..

…..we tasted two 2006 single vineyard Syrahs that were very different from each other. One had begun to take on the tobacco and leather characteristics of an older wine. It finished with a layer of delicious light fruit. The other had a much more dark and juicy fruit quality. Both were an unexpected delight!

We stopped next at a place called Tscharke’s.

The owner/winemaker, Tscharke, was our host. His wines were fantastic and they were priced somewhere between $10 and $15 Australian for a bottle. He has fine-tuned his winemaking and aging process with production efficiencies that allow him to charge less per bottle. We figured he makes his money by selling more bottles at the lower price than by selling just a few at the higher price. He doesn’t care about the pretense of expensive wine. He cares about taste. In additon to the usual suspects, he was also working with Italian varietals. My only purchase of the 2 days was here. I bought a 2015 Montepulciano that was so unique that I couldn’t pass it by. It had an earthy, almost “barnyard” feel about it. I can’t say that I have ever had anything like it.

If I lived in Australia, I would join his wine club. You can’t beat his creativity and the price per bottle.

The other standout was Rusden.

They were very small and some of their production techniques were quite primitive. This was the machine used for pressing. It’s a high pressure affair and had exploded on them a few times lately. We had to get special permission to get close to it.

All of the Rusden wines were outstanding, but the highlight for me was the Mourvedre. Believe it or not, they also had a Zinfandel. It was the only one I saw in all of the tastings we did. It was good….and a little jammy….not quite at California standards. But, it was fruity.

We ended our day in the Barossa with a small upstart winery headed by Peter Lehman’s son, David Franz.

For those of you who don’t know, Peter Lehman was the founder of one of the major wineries in the Barossa that still bears his name. It’s still there, but has been purchased by one of the large wine management groups. David was quite a character. Very fun! We had a rose that was made with 108 different grape varietals. They were all printed on the bottle.

It wasn’t my favorite. But, I’m guessing it is or will be someone’s favorite! But, it was certainly unique.

So, my final call on the Barossa was quite different from where I started at the beginning of my tour. Just as with people, you can’t always “judge a book by its cover”…..or reputation as it were. Sometimes it’s worth a second look to see if there is something beyond the surface. As I have found with people, it doesn’t always happen, but it’s such a pleasant surprise when it does.

 

 

What Was I thinking?……

April 2, 2018

What Was I thinking?……

…when I decided that 2 full days in Tasmania would be enough?

I don’t always have this feeling when leaving a travel location, but I can honestly say that I felt sad when it was time to depart from Hobart a few days ago. From the minute I checked into Hadley’s, an old historic hotel in Hobart, I felt like I was at home. After getting settled in my room, I walked down the hill from the hotel to the port area for dinner……

….and made friends with the bar keep.

I was going to like it here.

When I got back to the hotel, I was given a free bottle of the local Pinot Noir…..it came with the price of my room. I took it to the small hotel bar where they were playing old Frank Sinatra tunes. The first one was “I Did it My Way”, a choice full of personal symbolism that reminded me of some happy times in my recent past. I couldn’t imagine that it could get any better.

But, it did…..

I loved everything about my visit to Hobart and the surrounding area.

Hobart is really just the “tip of the iceburg”, as they say, in the exploration of Tasmania. It’s a sleepy port town where those who are exploring the island usually start their journey. For me, it was a mixture of a lot of the things I enjoy about my area of California.

And more.

I loved walking around the port area. On the different piers along the water’s edge, I could wander in and out of small shops selling all kinds of things that were fun to look at. I wove my way in and out of shops filled with local art, clothing and food products.

I could take a break, sit on a bench looking out to the water and view the moored pleasure boats that bobbed up and down at their docks. It was peaceful and relaxing.

I also sat and watched the activity on a pier had some commercial fishing boats.

Several nights I dined on fresh fish in restaurants along the waterfront. One night I had scallops at “The Blue Eye” restaurant. The scallops and the restaurant are favorites of the locals.

On my last night, I had dinner at Muir’s Upstairs, another local gem. I had a white fish that reminded me of cod.

I wish I could remember the name of the fish. I can’t. But, it was the trademark of the restaurant, an institution in Hobart, and had been brought in by its own fishing boat that morning. The waiter called it a “hook to plate” dinner…fresh from the sea and onto your plate. It reminded me of some of the fish restaurants in Morro Bay, near where I live, that touted the same kind of freshness in their fish. It was delicious!

Salamanca Place was another favorite.

It’s the site of the famous Saturday market, which, sadly, I missed. But, I did enjoy a stroll through the shops there…

and enjoyed the little square that anchored the area.

Battery Park and Arthur’s Circus…..

…..were filled with the history of Hobart and the old buildings that have been a part of Hobart from its beginning. They are now upscale living areas boasting real estate that comes at a very high price. The infamous bakery, Jackman and McRoss lives there. This restaurant is purported to have the best scallop pie in town, another favorite Hobart taste treat.

In the morning of the day I had my visit with the kangaroos and the Tasmanian Devils, I spent a fair amount of time at the Tasmanian Museum and Art Gallery.

They had a great exhibit about the Tasmania Devils, which gave me a good base of information for my afternoon tour.   The museum was delightful……and, it was free.

Tasmania was, of course, where I spent my time with the kangaroos and other Australian animals at the Bonorong Animal Sanctuary. This was one of the highlights of the whole trip for me.

On the way to the sanctuary, we stopped in Richmond. There, I viewed a beautiful old church…

and the oldest surviving large stone arch bridge in Australia.

The bridge was built by the convicts who were banished to Tasmania in the 1800s and beyond. It still stands today as a reminder of the forced convict labor that was used to build the bridge. The area around the bridge was beautiful, green and serene and is now a lovely residential site.

I also toured the old jail, where convicts were imprisoned.

Men and women British convicts were imprisoned on the island for doing “bad” things. “Bad” was subject to interpretation.

Isn’t that always the case?

“Bad” could be anything from insubordination to murder. When the convicts got to the island, they had some semblance of freedom. But, they were required to do tasks as assigned. If they didn’t do them, they were imprisoned in the jail, crammed in together in very small quarters. If they misbehaved in the jail, they were sent to solitary confinement. It was a double-edged sword. Solitary confinement provided some relief from the overcrowding of the jail, but the cells were lonely, cold and desolate. It’s hard to say which was worse, the general prison or solitary. Either way, it wasn’t pleasant. I, for one, am glad I don’t have to spend any time there.

Much to my disappointment, I never got to any of the walking and hiking trails in the beautiful mountains surrounding Hobart, of which there are many. I also missed Mount Wellington and the spectacular views of the city.

I enjoyed my visit to Hobart…..but there were other places for me to visit on this trip before I was done.

So, I will just have to go back.

And, I will go back…..and, I will spend more time.

What was I thinking?……..

Old…or New…..or Somewhere In Between…..

March 31, 2018

Old…or New…..or Somewhere In Between…..

This sums up the unusual artwork at MONA, the Museum of Old and New Art that I visited while in Hobart, Tasmania last week. Frankly, I think they should add weird, wacky and wonderful to the name. It would be a much better descriptor, but I’m guessing it would extend the acronym too far.

Oh well….what do I know?   Maybe it’s better to let visitors come to their own conclusions.

As you know, when traveling, I typically ask everyone I come in contact with what I should look at in the area. I like to know what other travelers are enjoying, as well as what the locals like to do. Per almost everyone I came in contact with, MONA was one of the “must sees”. It’s an institution and so unusual that a visit to Hobart just wouldn’t be complete without a wander through. While I won’t say that the artwork is necessarily my “cup of tea”, I would agree that it is well worth a stop…..if only to see what kinds of things very creative artists are thinking about these days.

You might be surprised. I was.

So, on my first full day in Hobart, I boarded the ferry…..

….and made the 20-minute trip to the island that is home to this distinctive museum. It is also home to Moorilla Estate, the second oldest winery in Tasmania, which is now also owned by the rich gambler, David Walsh. I, of course, did a tasting there. Part of my trip, after all, is focused on wine. I would be remiss if I didn’t try it….considering that I was so close……

David Walsh, gambler extraordinaire, who managed to get himself expelled from every gambling establishment in Australia….or something like that…….is the mastermind behind this establishment. He is a math genius who developed a numbers system that beat the house…every time. When he got expelled from working casino games, he created a system to beat betting on horse races. As you might guess, this wasn’t received well either. But, in the process, he made some money. He had to do something with the money, so he thought of this museum. It is focused on sex and death….and, some other things, too. But, it presents a very dark and twisted view on life. Some of it was a bit disconcerting…..to say the least.

The journey to get there on the ferry was the first indication that this was going to be a “wild ride”.   Some of the chairs were ceramic lambs…

….set up around the perimeter of the deck. People “rode” them as if they were in a saddle. There was also a ceramic white cow…..

……on board that people could lean against with their cocktails. I, personally, chose to sit on one of the round cushioned seats that were arranged around small, round metal tables that were interspersed around the deck.

It was pleasant…….and amusing.

As we approached the museum, we were told that we would need to ascend 99 steps to get in.

I was dreading this, as I thought about my day in the Blue Mountains near Sydney where I walked 94 floors of very uneven steps in order to see a waterfall. I shared this with some other travelers, who pointed out that if I could do that, I could certainly do this.

They were right. It was a piece of cake for this veteran climber!

There were some outdoor sculptures that were interesting….

……but the exhibits that were inside the museum were the most interesting.

You can’t see it here, but the words…..

…..on this display were formed by a shower of water droplets that were coming from the top of the exhibit. I can’t imagine how they organized the holes that dispersed the water in order to get the water to come out in words. This is way beyond my comprehension of math and engineering. But, it was certainly interesting.

This photo…..

……comes from a display lining 2 walls that I walked through that were facing each other. It was like walking down a hallway. There were somewhere in the way of 100 drawers between the 2 sides. Each drawer had a picture of a person on the front in the middle of what looked like the center of a vinyl record. When you opened the drawer, there was a writing of some kind that talked about the person and then the voice of the person saying that they loved you. I spent some time here. I’m OK with a bit of loving repartee right now. Never mind that it was a bit eerie, and I didn’t know any of the people.

This was one of my favorite displays.

It’s a dinosaur of some kind made of cassette tape covers. This was one of the few exhibits that I could find some meaning around. I thought it was interesting that they used something old to create something even older. I have no idea if I am really even close to what the artist was getting at. But, my interpretation is good enough for me.

I also thought this exhibit on airplanes….

…..done by a German artist, was interesting. Probably because I could actually figure out what it was. My hats off to him for producing something I could connect to.

I thought about getting some pictures in the section that focused on sex. But, I couldn’t imagine what I would do with them.   My blog is G rated. So, I wouldn’t be able to put them here. But, I will say that the most disturbing exhibit I saw in this area was one where 2 human skeletons were having sex. The other was a set of women’s parts that were displayed in a row on the walls in this section. There were 27 of them…..all the same part, but from different angles and perspectives. Apparently, the artist thought there was some kind of interesting discussion that could be initiated around this. I’m guessing he was right. If I had been visiting the museum with someone, we would probably still be talking about the meaning of this exhibit.

After all of this, I was glad for some comic relief at the wine bar.

I wasn’t bowled over by all of the wines. But, I did have a really good Burgundian style Chardonnay and a cool weather Syrah that I thought was top notch. Before I left, I also purchased a glass of one of their top label Pinot Noirs that I thought was the best of the lot and enjoyed some truffle infused potato chips. I shared them with this chicken.

He soon became my best friend…just like the kangaroos. It’s amazing what a small treat will do for you in the making friends department.

All in all, it was a great experience, and I’m glad I went.

I sometimes think that my mind goes off in random tangents that others don’t really understand. After viewing this museum, I have gained some perspective as to where I fit in the grand scheme of unconventional thinking. It’s nice to know that there are people who are even more eccentric than I am.

Old, new, crazy, sane……in the scope of it all, I guess that I am somewhere in between.

I think most of us are.

I’m OK with that.

 

 

Me and the “Roos”…..

March 30, 2018

Me and the “Roos”…..

Kangaroos……that is…..

Yesterday I found myself in the middle of a “mob” of kangaroos.

They formed a bit of a crowd around me, licking my hands and generally having a good old time.

They loved me!

It helped that I had a bag of kangaroo food in my hand that I was willing to share with any “Roo” that would give me some attention. As it turns out, with food in hand, just about anyone can get some attention from the “Roos”. They are not a particularly selective crowd. They like just about anyone who has food. As long as you have food in a flat, open hand positioned close to the ground you can count on making one…or several….new friends. And, if you don’t get the hand position just right, they will do you the courtesy of helping you by taking your wrist in their paws and moving it to the right position. They have to be able to reach it after all.

How’s that for efficiency in making friends?

Despite the fact that I was not the only object of the affections of the “Roos” yesterday, my afternoon at the Bonorong Wildlife Sanctuary in Hobart, Tasmania….

….was undeniably one of the most enjoyable days I have had so far on my trip “down under”. The tickling of the kanagroo tongues and the occasional grazing of their teeth on my hand and my intermittent scratching on their chests…

….was a unique and special way to get up close and personal with these animals.

This was where we started our tour.

I just couldn’t get enough!

Bonorong is an animal sanctuary located outside Hobart. It’s not a zoo. I’m not a big fan of zoos. But, it is instead a rehab center where they take in animals that are hurt or sick and rehab them so that they can be placed back in the wild. It’s an admirable cause, and their success rate is pretty high at getting these animals back to their normal habitat. Several years ago, I visited a similar center in Costa Rica and was touched and moved by the work they were doing with monkeys there. This was similar, but with a different set of animals. They are doing good work at Bonorong, and I was highly impressed by the compassion and love that the staff showed for their charges.

The animals were clearly attached to the staff and the staff to the animals, as was the case with this baby wombat. As soon as the attendant entered the enclosure and sat down on a rock to talk to us, the baby jumped up in her lap and fell asleep. The staff person stood up, turned and held it like she was burping a baby so that we could see its cute face. As it woke up, it nestled against her ear and began to make sucking noises.

It was a touching scene. A tribute to the loving care these animals are getting.

At Bonorong, we also got a good education on the Tasmanian Devil, an animal that is heading towards extinction.

I had seen an exhibit at the museum in town earlier in the day about this animal. It seems that the “Devils” are becoming afflicted with cancerous tumors of the face, which is killing inordinate numbers of them. There is a group of people that is doing a lot of research to try to figure out why this is happening and how to prevent it from spreading. There are several different strains of the cancer that proliferate through the bites of other affected “Devils”, making it quite difficult to contain. It’s becoming a real issue.

The Tasmanian Devil is a very misunderstood animal. They are thought to be vicious carnivores that will eat anything living or dead. It’s not so. They are carnivores, but they are really quite meek. They feed on the carcasses of animals that are already dead. The attendant did a feeding while we were there, giving the “Devil” a hank of a wallaby. The “Devil” chewed on the meat for awhile and then took it to his den to finish his meal.

He would eat everything…..bones and all. The mouths of the “Devil” are quite strong….much stronger than that of humans. So, they can bite through almost anything. That, in addition to the “devilish” sounds they make, their shiny eyes and transparent ears that look red when the light goes through them have given these animals the reputation of being ferocious. Don’t get me wrong, I don’t want to touch one, and I certainly don’t want to meet one in a dark alley. But, they are not as fierce as they are made out to be……and…..I thought they were cute!

The other highlight for me was the Koala Bear. Everyone has a love affair with the Koala.

They are so cute and cuddly looking. Up close, they look like the stuffed bears that we have seen all over Australia in tourist shops. But, in reality, they are not that cuddly…or friendly for that matter. And, they were not too excited to have us traipse through their living quarters. But, we did it anyway with the approval of the tour attendant.

I got to touch the Koala.

I wanted to hold the Koala. Sadly, this is not allowed, as it creates stress for them. So, we all just touched them on the back and went on. It was still thrilling for me!

Bonorong has 3 Koalas. They are not indigenous to Tasmania. They inherited one from South Africa that impregnated one that they already had there. We met the “stud”….

…..and his children. These will be the last of the Koalas for Bonorong. But, they will have these for some years to come. The children are pretty young.

We also saw lots of pretty birds…..

……and some echnidas…….

…..which were round and prickly looking. Still cute, though!

After we toured, we went back for one more visit with the “Roos”. One of the members of our tour group pointed out that one of the kangaroos had a “joey” in the pouch. We looked at its little ears popping up.

Melt my heart……

Me and the “Roos” and a “joey” too……

Perfect!

 

By the Way…..

March 27, 2018

By the way…..

….one last story……on things lost.

It’s a good one…..

The last leg of our New Zealand journey was in Queenstown……which I will tell you about in my next post. My friend, Lee, joined us there for the last part of our group travel experience. We spent about 4 days together there and then flew as a group to Sydney. On our way to the airport, we stopped in a small town called Arrowtown. It was really cute with lots of little shops and cafes to look at.

I highly recommend that you take a look here if you are in the area. In one of the small antique shops, Lee found an old map of New Zealand that she loved. Lee is a collector of old maps. This one was an old fashioned type that was printed on a fabric. You could open and close it by rolling it up on horizontal sticks attached at the top and bottom of the map.

It was nice…..and unique.

Lee called me into the shop to look at the map, and I agreed that it was something that she might like to have as a souvenir of our trip. She and I spent a bit of time evaluating the pros and cons of purchasing the map, carrying it on the next legs of the journey and then getting it home. It was a bit expensive. So, that was a consideration, too. Also, there would be lots of opportunity for the map to be lost or broken. It wasn’t heavy, but awkward to carry because of its length and shape. The sales woman in the shop encouraged her to buy it and assured her that she could package it up with bubble wrap so that it would be protected. It would still need to be carried separately from the rest of her luggage, but the packaging would protect it.

Sold!

So, for the rest of our time in Sydney and then Melbourne, Lee carried the map to each new place as we moved around. It was almost broken in the airport in Queenstown and then was almost left behind in the airport in Sydney. But, each time, the map was rescued, and we went on our way.

On Lee’s and my last 2 days in Melbourne, she and I rented a car and did a drive of the Great Ocean Road. We decided that we would take the train to Geelong, rent a car and then head out. Lee would be going home from here and I would be moving along to another apartment in Melbourne when I got back. So, we had to take our luggage with us. The people at Budget Rental Cars were so nice to come to the train station to pick us up.

But….we had some confusion on where to meet the driver. We walked around the outside of the station for quite awhile searching for the pick up point before we stopped at a bench and called Budget again to see where we were supposed to meet them. Just as we were doing that, the Budget person drove up and called out to Lee. He waved us in. We got in the car and went off to the rental office.

We were about halfway down the Great Ocean Road when Lee looked and me and said, “Do you see my map in the back?”

Nope. No map. We deduced that she had left it on the bench near the train station where we met the person from Budget.

I called the lost and found at the train station to see if anyone had turned in the map. They didn’t have it. I also called the police station. They were closed, which we both thought was quite odd…….

Lee was really disappointed. But, there was nothing to be done about it. The map was gone.

We finished our trip and went back to the train station the next day to get our train back to Melbourne. Before we boarded the train, Lee asked me if I thought she should ask one more time at the train station about her map. Why not? It wasn’t likely that they would have the map, but what did she have to lose?

In a few minutes, Lee was back……and, guess what she had in her hand?

The map.

Some kind person saw it sitting on the bench and brought it to the lost and found at the train station.   They were getting ready to send it on to the main station to see if someone would claim it when she made her inquiry.

What are the odds?!

This story gives me pause to think about how we touch people everyday without even knowing it.   This is not a life-changing event for Lee. But, having the map as a memory of her trip will probably bring up some nice memories long after it’s over. I’m guessing it will bring her joy….maybe the memory will come at some time when she really needs that in her life.

I commend this person for turning in the map even though he or she will never know the impact of the action. I am going to take a lesson here…..maybe we all should…..

Doing the right thing is always the right thing…..

So, this is the end….I hope……of the things lost and things found stories.

I’m glad this one had a good ending.

 

Things lost…

March 21, 2018

Things lost…….

And, things found…….

………or not…..

We have lost a few things along the way as we have traveled in the “down under”.

It happens.

We have been gone for a month and have been moving from place to place very quickly, which can create lots of opportunity to misplace our belongings. Things get left behind in different accommodations, things fall out of pockets, get caught up in the laundry………. and sometimes things drop to the depths of a purse or a backpack never to be found again…..at least until we get to the next place and dump everything out.   Every now and then we find something…..a hidden treasure….that we thought was lost for good.

It’s kind of like Christmas when we find things.

It makes me feel happy!

The first thing that was lost was my phone. This happened even before I left my local airport. My friends, Bob and Christine, were coming by to pick me up to take me to the airport. Before they came, I sat down in the lounge chair in my living room and took a call. As I was finishing up, they came to the door. I let them in, gathered my things and we were off!

When we got the airport, Bob said, “We will miss you.”

That was nice.

And, then, “How will we stay in touch while you are away?”

I said that I had my phone and I would be checking messages. They could call me if they wanted to. Then, I thought I would double check to be sure I had my phone.

No phone.

So, they kindly took me back home, and I got it. It was sitting right where I left it on the arm of my lounge chair. Ughh………This is when living in a small town pays off.   The airport is about 15 minutes from my home. So, it wasn’t too much of a hardship. But……did I really need to leave my phone behind?

When we got the car in New Zealand, most of us lost track of our phones at least once. More than one time, we did a “phone check” before we started out in the car. I’m happy to say that all phones that were thought to be lost were found.

The next thing that was lost was a bit harder to deal with. We were back at our accommodation where we were recovering from a grueling car ride in the driving rain and fog from Martinborough to Wellington when Gene announced that his Passport was missing. We all searched high and low. Each of us took a turn looking through his clothing…..clean and dirty. We looked through his bags, his pockets and his bed. We all searched the van and then ran our fingers in between the cushions of each seat on the van and in the side pockets of the doors.

We didn’t find his Passport there, but we did find some other things from our trip, like extra Werthers caramel candies…which I was happy about….. and some things left behind by previous renters…..old food, paper, tissues…..you know, things like that. But….no Passport. After much searching and deliberation, we pronounced the old Passport gone for good.

Where did the Passport go? Who knows. The best we can figure is that it fell out of Gene’s pocket somewhere along the way when he pulled out his wallet. The Passport dilemma won Gene a flight to Auckland from Wellington where the US Embassy is located. There, he was able to get a brand new Passport. We all went on to Blenheim where Gene joined us later in the same evening.

On a lighter note, we have also lost some socks. It seems that in Australia and New Zealand…..just like in the United States….there is a place that we will never find where all of the lost socks go. Rose, another of my traveling companions, found a sock in the lint catcher of the dryer in one of the places we stayed. It was one of mine. I still don’t know where its mate is, so I am wearing it with another of my lone socks whose mate I have lost. What difference does it make if they don’t match?

We have also lost our patience as we have sorted through some of these losses…..and just sorted through traveling together in such close quarters. We have, after all, been tied together at the hip for several weeks now. Some days we were in the car for 8 hours and then in an Air B & B apartment or house after the drive. Other days, just together in the house. But, tied together we have been for the last several weeks. At this juncture, I’m happy to say that we have all found our patience.

I’m glad.

And…..just for fun I will tell you this little story. We also saw two men along the way who had lost their pants. I’m grateful that this was not the case with the men in our group. I’m not sure I could have stood the humor of this. But, when we stopped at a restaurant in Kaikoura for lunch, we saw a man in the line to order food who had lost the back of his pants. No kidding, the back of his pants had a slit right up to the waist. And, then in Christchurch we saw a man who had lost the front of his pants. He was holding them together, but there was not much left to the imagination. He had also lost his way and asked us for directions. I’m still thinking about him and hoping that he found his way to Pearce Street, wherever that might be.

Overall, I have to say that we have done pretty well. We have weathered our “losses” well and celebrated our “finds” even better.  I think we will go home with at least as much as we came with, which makes me feel great!  But, even better, we are all going home with a feeling of closer friendship for each other.

For, me, that’s the best part!

 

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185 Empty Chairs…..

March 19, 2018

We saw 185 Empty Chairs

…..set up in a vacant lot in the center of Christchurch.

From a distance, the chairs looked like a big, white square. In fact, it wasn’t clear to us from our vantage point that we were actually looking at chairs.  But, as we approached we could see each chair begin to form and then separate…one from the next….. eventually lining up into perfectly symmetrical rows. From the distance, the chairs looked all the same. But as we got closer, we realized they really were quite different. All of the chairs were painted white. But, this is where the similarities ended. Each chair had a different style……each one representing the unique individual that was killed in the 2011 earthquake that hit Christchurch.

Around the world, there are many examples of memorials composed of empty chairs going back to the time of Dickens and Van Gogh. Most recently, there was a chair memorial set up in Bryant Park commemorating 911 and one in Oklahoma City to remember the victims of the Oklahoma bombing. There are others, too. I haven’t seen them. But, I did see this one in Christchurch a few weeks ago. It was quite moving.

I was humbled……

After spending some time among the chairs, we walked across the street to the “cardboard church”.

This church was damaged by the earthquake and was rebuilt with cardboard tubes and storage containers. It’s temporary….but, who knows for how long. I talked at length to one of the docents about the construction of the church. The cardboard idea was developed by the Japanese for use as a temporary, yet sturdy building material for use in situations just like the one faced by the people of Christchurch.

Without prompting from me, the docent talked about the consequences of the earthquake on the town. They are substantial. It takes a long time to reconstruct the buildings. But the real challenge is rebuilding the confidence of the people. They are moving out of Christchurch because they are afraid of more earthquakes, they are disturbed by the changes the earthquake created, and they are frustrated by the time it is taking to get their city back…..

……and, they are sad……..about all of the loss……….

I think the hardest part for people to accept, though, is that it could happen again……and, probably will.

The docent had a positive slant on the situation.   She said, “We just keep going on. That’s what we do.”

I guess that’s about all they can do.

We saw lots of evidence of the earthquake in the buildings in the town. There was a lot of devastation.

There was also a lot of construction going on all around, which made it difficult for us, as tourists, to negotiate our way….even with a map. But, negotiate we did so that we could see everything.

We enjoyed the city.

The Botanical Garden that we walked through from our accommodation to the central business district was beautiful.

And, we enjoyed the main square where the town was preparing for the Chinese lantern festival.

The section with the Spanish architecture that we spent a fair amount of time trying to find was really cute and filled with lots of little shops and restaurants.

And, the views of the city from the top of the Gondola were spectacular.

Christchurch is a great city filled with beautiful sights. But, the best story is the people who remain in the city to rebuild. They are taking each day as it comes…..slowly moving forward…….one foot in front of the other in order to rebuild their city and their lives.  It’s a story of tenacity and hope.

It won’t be long before things are back to normal.

At least I hope not.

 

Wine-a-Palooza…….

March 17, 2018

Wine-a-Palooza….in New Zealand……

When my friends and I started talking about doing a trip to New Zealand and Australia, we decided that at least some of our trip needed to focus on wine.   I work in the wine industry in California, one of my traveling companions works in the industry in Virginia and some of the rest of us just like to drink wine! There was lots of interest in tasting wine among the group and since we would be in some of the major wine areas of the world, we would be remiss if we did not plan to have this tasty experience. At the halfway point in our adventure, I can say that we didn’t quite hit all of the wine regions in New Zealand. But we did make a good dent. And, as we are rounding up our time in New Zealand and heading to Australia, I am happy to report that we have had some extraordinary wines…….and were exposed to some exceptional scenery along the way!

If you know about wine, you will not be surprised to know that we had lots of Pinot Noir and even more Sauvignon Blanc. But, we also had some other things that I, frankly, wasn’t expecting. We had some fantastic cool weather Syrah, some exceptional wines made with Bordeaux varietals such as Cabernet and Merlot and some wonderful Chardonnay in the north island. And, in the south island, we also had some interesting Pinot Gris, which was quite different from what I am used to in my section of California. Here, they seemed to be smoother, less tart and a little more complex. Some of them even had some potential for aging, which is not typical.

For me, though, the most surprising taste sensation that we had was the Reisling. We had several “off-dry” Reislings that I thought were quite unusual. I have tasted Reisling in the Alsace region of France and in the Mosel region of Germany. But, it was years ago and I really didn’t remember the particular characteristics of the varietal. I got a good education here in New Zealand. Reisling has a bit of a nose of “petrol”, or gasoline, which at the front end isn’t that appealing. But, as you taste through, it opens up into something quite different. The Reislings that we tasted had a quality of spicy ginger in the front and then some stone fruit in the mouth and in the finish. The combination of the fruit and spice, along with the “Petrol” nose, was quite a nice pairing. The Reisling was my favorite and most surprising taste treat of all of the sampling we did. The flavors were quite unexpected….and very pleasant.

The other nice surprise was the Sauvignon Blanc. We found this to have much less of the tart grapefruit focused flavor that we are so used to in the United States. We loved this different style. The grapefruit was there, but it was much more subtle, and we found a creaminess that left a lingering finish that we really liked.   This seemed especially true in the Marlborough area.

Our “wine-a-palooza” started in the north island in the region of Hawke’s Bay, near Napier, which boasts a bit of a warmer climate. Opposite of the northern hemisphere where temperatures get warmer as you go south, in the southern hemisphere the temperatures get colder. So, the heaviest wines that we tasted were found in the north island. The Pinots were bigger and much more fruity and we were able to try some lovely cool weather Syrah and some blends of warmer weather Bordeaux varietals that were quite nice. We visited Elephant Hill Winery….

….which was near the ocean, and Craggy Range…

…..which was in a more mountainous region. Craggy Range won the prize for the best wines and the nicest tasting experience. This is also where we had the first of several of the tasty Reislings.

After Hawke’s Bay, we wound our way to Wellington and did some tasting in the Martinborough area. Here, we found Pinot and Sauvignon Blanc, as well as a sweet Reisling that we all really loved. It tasted like peach pie. Perfect for dessert! Our wineries of choice here were Ata Rangi

…Schubert and Martinborough Wines.

Blenheim was our first stop in the south island. It is famous for its distinctive Sauvignon Blanc. It was here that we got the best education on the wines of New Zealand. We had two prearranged appointments that were set up through industry contacts.

The first was at Clos Henri.  Check out this cool tasting room!

The proprietors of this winery come from the Sancerre region of France.

They do Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir….that’s it. And, it’s not likely that they will branch out. They like being able to focus on only a few varietals and they do them very well. Clos Henri does things a little bit differently than the rest of the vitners in New Zealand, which we found interesting.

First, they practice dry farming. This means that they don’t irrigate the plants at all, which makes the vines struggle to stay alive. It also keeps the juice in the grapes from becoming too diluted. They are left with much more intensely flavored juice than that which comes from the grapes that are irrigated. This is the strategy that is used in Sancerre for Sauvignon Blanc.

Clos Henri also plants more vines per hectare than the other vintners in New Zealand do. Then, they focus on trimming back the vines so that there are only a few clusters per vine. In farming wine grapes, the idea is that when there are fewer clusters per vine, there are fewer grapes. So, there is more energy focused on the grapes, creating more intensity in the flavor of the juice. The other New Zealand vintners achieve this by planting fewer vines per hectare. In this case, there are more grapes per vine, but less vines. Theoretically, the energy in the vine is less concentrated in the grapes.

The other set appointment that we had was at Greywacke.

This was the product of some former Cloudy Bay employees that decided to break off on their own. It is a husband and wife team. The husband, Judd, was the former wine maker at Cloudy Bay and the wife, Kimberly…..

worked in hospitality. They don’t have a traditional tasting room, but we had a private tasting in a small house with a pool in front, that served as the tasting room.

We had primarily Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot here. We also had a very nice Gewurztramier. These folks are also doing some things differently. They make a Sauvignon Blanc to meet the expectations of the general public that is quite grapefruit focused and tart. This is what people want and they need to make money, after all. But, this is not what they want to be known for. They were much more interested in producing a Sauvignon Blanc that could be aged. In fact, they poured a 2011 for us that had seen some oak. I loved it! They will be continuing to try this over the next few years to see exactly how long it would hold. My guess is at least 5 more years…..maybe more.

We rounded up our New Zealand tastings in the Otago area near Queenstown.

This area is most famous for its Pinot Noir. Here, we found Pinots that were most similar to those of Burgandy. They were lighter and light cherry in focus….with a little bit less of a tart cherry feel than those of Burgandy. They were also much more earthy in quality than those that we found in the northern areas. We visited Peregrine….

and Chard Farm….

We found things at both places that we really liked. One of the treats of our visit to Chard Farm was the challenging drive up the dirt road to get there and then the spectacular view. It was breathtaking!

At this point, I want to recognize the wives of my tasting buddies who were not interested in tasting wine. They were real troopers in going with us in some cases and staying behind in other cases. My hats off to them!

Our New Zealand wine-a-palooza is over now and we have moved on to Australia, where we will continue our exploration. We are planning to visit the Yarra Valley, McLaren Vale and the Barossa.

I’ll let you know what we find!

Wine-a-palooza forever!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

“I’m Going on an Adventure”……

March 12, 2018

“I’m Going on an Adventure”……

…at Hobbiton…..the movie set of the movie “The Hobbit”…..

I am going to say right up front that I don’t know anything about the Hobbits. I haven’t read the books, and I haven’t seen the movies. And, I have to admit that I wasn’t that excited about seeing the movie set. But, my friends are big fans of the books and the movies and really wanted to do this……and it was on the route to our next destination. The fact that we were all traveling together in the same car made it an easy decision.

I have to say that it was one of the most pleasant surprises of the trip so far. I still don’t know anything about the story of “The Hobbit”. And frankly, I doubt that I will read the books….or see the movies. But, it was well worth the effort just to see the beauty of the set and to learn a bit about these unusual characters.

The set was a miniature, old-fashioned looking town that was lush and green with lots of flower and vegetable gardens.

We wandered through the town, winding our way up and down the dirt streets of the small town. When we got to the top of the hills, we could look out to the rolling countryside and see sheep dotting the bright green grass that was visible as far as the eye could see.

We saw huge oak trees that I would guess were quite old.

In addition to the real trees, the tour guide pointed out one fake tree that was made for the movie with something like 200,000 silk leaves. If they hadn’t pointed it out, we wouldn’t have known that it wasn’t part of the original scenery. It was very realistic.

We are here in the New Zealand fall, so we also saw lots of pumpkins hiding among their leafy vines as we walked along. The caretakers of the property were participating in a local contest to see who could grow the largest pumpkin. Some of the pumpkins were huge!

I was quite amused by the small “holes” that served as the homes of the “hobbits”. They were built into the sides of hills.

The only thing visible from the walkway where we stood to view the “hole” was the small front door. The sides of the hills where the doors were inserted were the same bright green grass as the surrounding fields. All of the houses had pretty gardens and some indication of the occupations and interests of the different “hobbits”.

Of course, there was nothing inside the “hole”. It was all for show. So, we couldn’t go all the way in. But, we could stand in the doorways…those of us who could fit, anyway…..and get some pictures of ourselves, which, of course, I did.

The “Hobbit” life is not the life for me.  From what I could get about the story, life for them could be somewhat complicated, especially when they were on a great adventure. Obviously, I like the adventure part, but not the complicated part. Even though some of my great adventures can be complicated, I don’t usually find myself getting into a physical altercation of any type. My adventures usually just require some problem-solving and thought.

I kind of like it that way.

So, I am now off to the next adventure, which will include tasting the Sauvignon Blanc wines that are famous in New Zealand.

This is my kind of adventure!

Stay tuned!

Banished From the Tribe……

March 11, 2018

Banished from the Maori Tribe……

What?!

Well……

I wasn’t really banished. But, I did get a very strong reprimand…..a few days ago while touring a Maori village in Rotorua.

You might be wondering what kind of horrible thing someone would need to do in order to be scolded….and potentially cast out from a tour group.

It was a very high crime, indeed.

I was smiling….and getting ready to break out into one of my famous laughing jags… Our guide for the Maori village tour saw this, approached me and told me that there was no smiling or laughing allowed here. And, if I didn’t stop, she would escort me out of the gathering.

Wow! These Maori’s take their rituals very seriously.

Now…..

…..you might question what could possibly be so funny during this very somber event. I was laughing about one of my traveling buddies, Gene. He, and several other men were elected to be High Chiefs of the small tribes of tourists that were formed for our tour experience and dinner.

One of Gene’s duties as chief was to greet a Maori warrior in the traditional fashion. After the tribes of tourists had all assembled, several warriors arrived by kayak in our gathering area at the entrance to the village. They disembarked and did some kind of a war dance in front of the grouping of chiefs that involved protrusion of tongues, bulging of eyes and the emission of some very stern vocalizations. When the dance was over, each warrior stood before a chief. Gene, and the other chiefs, were instructed to approach the warrior that stood in front of them, pick up a long leaf, and then retreat by backing up. Gene tucked the leaf into the front of his jeans. After the chiefs had moved back into position, one warrior approached each chief and they rubbed noses and touched foreheads.

To top it off, somewhere in the middle of this experience, Gene and the other chiefs were also required to do a war dance. This also sent me into ripples of giggles.

If you know my friend Gene, you will know why this is so funny. Gene is not a touchy feely kind of guy. He doesn’t even like giving hugs…..and, he doesn’t dance. So, the visual of him rubbing noses with a tattooed faced stranger that had just exhibited his warrior prowess by extending his tongue and bulging his eyes was just too much for me. The dance and the leaf tucked in the jeans added another element of whimsy. I just couldn’t contain myself.

After I was admonished for exhibiting my amusement, I did manage to get myself under control so that I could take the tour, hear the Maori stories, play some of the Maori games

….and have my dinner, of course.

The Maori Village visit was more than a bit touristy. I’m glad I did it, but I would not do it again.…unless, of course, Gene came along. But, we did get some good information about the culture, which was nice to have.

It seems that the Maoris came to New Zealand on vessels similar to catamarans to escape overcrowding the Tahitian islands. They set up small villages of thatched huts near waterways and traveled throughout the village in kayaks. Their children’s dexterity was developed through the games that we learned about and participated in.

We also learned that the facial tattoos that we saw on everyone were something of a family “crest”, indicating which family in the tribe they belonged to.

In ancient times, the tattoos were applied by digging out the skin in intricate patterns and then cauterizing the wounds with hot sticks that had been heated in the fire. They let the wounds heal and then repeated the process several times. The description reminded me of branding an animal. I’m not sure I could get through it.

YIKES!

Their food was cooked in a hole in the ground under a layer of hot coals, which is how our dinner for the evening was prepared.

We enjoyed our dinner and a show performed by the actual Maori tribe. Best of all, we got to see Gene perform the war dance one more time before it was all over and we left to go back to our Air B & B.

Gene is glad it’s over.

And, I’m glad I can smile and laugh again without reprimand as I re-invigorate my comical view of the world.

It is, after all, one of the best parts of travel……finding humor in the everyday…..

Keep smiling!