Archive for the ‘Uncategorized’ Category

“March of the Penguins”….

February 16, 2015

Have you ever seen the movie “A Christmas Story”? It’s the one where the little boy wants a “BB” gun for Christmas and is willing to do almost anything to get it. If you have seen the movie, you may remember the scene that takes place just before Christmas. It’s snowing and the neurotic mother of the neurotic younger brother has bundled him up in his snowsuit for his trek to school so tightly that his arms are raised and lifted straight out from his sides….and, he can’t move them…..and, he is waddling along to school with his brother….and, he is crying. (It’s also the movie where the older brother is dared by his friends to lick a frozen flagpole and gets his tongue stuck! This always makes me laugh! Does that make me a bad person?!)

Anyway……I was reminded of this movie (not the flag pole scene, but the scene with the bundled up boy) in the last days as we visited Port Stanley in the Falkland Islands (or the Malvinas depending on your perspective) and Puerto Madryn in Argentina and viewed the Magellenic Penguins strutting their stuff on the beach. Every time I looked at them walking, I thought about that little boy with his arms raised at his sides. The Penguins looked just like a cross between the little boy and a very old man in a tuxedo who was waddling home from a formal event. They were so cute, and they made me laugh. And, I just couldn’t look away.

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The Falklands and Puerto Madryn were the best stops we had for actually getting up close and personal with these black and white water birds. We didn’t choose to do the tours where you could walk alongside them down the path and have a conversation, but we did see them congregated on the beach, in their burrows, playing in the water and on the glacier (as I pointed out in my last post.) In Puerto Madryn, we got within 5 feet of them as they climbed the hill from the beach to “check us out” and protect their nests.   I loved it!

 

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I learned a little bit about these creatures from the movie “March of the Penguins”, which I watched in my cabin on the ship. They are an interesting group. As far as I can tell, their main purpose is to be cute and birth more penguins. But, we could all take some lessons from them on relationships. They mate for life and, to a large degree, share the responsibility for caring for the penguin eggs and the little chicks that pop out. It’s a bit of a role reversal from what we humans are used to. The males take much more responsibility than the females by keeping the eggs and the chicks warm under the long feather coats of their bodies by balancing them between and on their feet until they are ready to be on their own. The mothers are the primary breadwinners by seeking out the food for the babies. The fathers stay behind keep the chicks in line. We saw some video footage taken by fellow cruises where the fathers were actually pecking at the chicks when they got a little bit out of line. It was funny to watch.  But, it was touching in some ways to see how involved the males were with their babies.  Very sweet!

I also learned that penguins actually flap their wings and fly through the water instead of swim. When I looked at some footage of penguins mid-swim it was clear that they were actually flying.  It was fascinating to watch!

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Even though the penguins were my favorite, we did see other things, too. In Puerto Madryn we saw sea lions…..lots of them…..big ones, little ones and one baby albino that was, of course, all white. There are often elephant seals there, too. But, they were not in residence when we visited. And, on the drive to the beach where we saw these animals, we also saw herds of guanaco (like our llamas) and choique (like our ostriches). They were very elegant and stopped up traffic just like the deer that we see in my neck of the woods in California.

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In the Falkland Islands, Lee and I also saw the inside of a British pub and had some fish and chips and a “pint” which was quite tasty and a lot of fun!

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All in all, it was a great few days mixing and mingling with the “locals” in the Antarctic!

Also, on another note, I will tell you that Lee and I both laughed more than once as we observed our little penguin friends about my French experience with the word for “penguin”, which happens to be “penguin”, with a little bit of a nasal sound on the “en” and the “in”. As I was studying the Rosetta Stone in preparation for my immersion in France, the word “penguin” kept coming up in the lessons. For some reason, the Rosetta Stone people thought it was important for me to know how to say this in French. Maybe they knew I was taking a trip to the Antarctic! How did they know?!

 

Antarctica….Who Gets to Do This?!

February 14, 2015

I can’t tell you how many times in the last days that we have been cruising through the Antarctic that Lee and I have looked at each other and said,

”Can you believe we are here? Who gets to do this?!”

As it turns out, at least on this cruise, those who “get to do this” are people who have been just about everywhere else. They are well-traveled, adventurous folks who are looking for an extraordinary experience that is just a little bit off the beaten path. We have met all of them……on tours, at dinner, in the drink lounge, at the local pub…and the list goes on. I don’t think I have ever met such a large group of such interesting people from so many different places who have done so many exciting things!  I’m out of breath just thinking about it! We are, indeed, fortunate to be sharing the incredible experience of cruising around the Antarctic with such a distinguished group!

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I am going to tell you where we have been and what we have seen in the last few days. But, I am not a cartographer, a zoologist, a geologist, a historian or anything even close. So, if I miss a few of the details, you will have to forgive me. I am, however someone who studies people. I’ve done it all of my life. So, as I reflect on the last days, aside of the sights I have seen, I think what I have enjoyed the most about these days in the Antarctic has been connecting with my own feelings about this experience and watching my fellow shipmates connect as well.   It’s an interesting sense of “community” that I saw emerging as we all viewed the vastness of the waterways and observed the icy landmasses and glaciers and helped each other pick out the flora and fauna that was available as we traveled through. I enjoyed watching the child-like wonder that you could see in the faces of the people as we rounded the edges of the Antarctic to see breathtaking sunsets set against the mountainous landscapes, animals frolicking in the wake of the ship and some extraordinarily large icebergs. I also enjoyed reconnecting with my own inner child as I have been racing back and forth across the ship to see things. It’s been awhile since I have seen that kid around, and I kind of enjoyed the visit. In all, it’s been an experience that I will never forget and one that makes me long for more!

I will, again, give Celebrity a hand for providing us with an interesting and understandable account of the action that surrounded us. One of the speakers who presented information in our first days on board did a very interesting narration as we traveled. He did his best to present us with interesting facts and to point things out as we went along. Well done! We also had great sunny and clear weather the whole way through, which was not the work of Celebrity, but nevertheless, I thank them for helping us to make the most of it!

On the first day of our journey, we rounded Cape Horn, the southern tip of South America. As I pointed out in my last post, this was an early morning. We were up at 5:30 am so that we could get to the deck and get the first sighting of the “horn” at 6:00 am. I haven’t been up for a sunrise since I left work a few years ago, so this was quite a shock to the constitution! But, it was well worth the effort.

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I find it difficult to put into words the beauty of the sunrise. When we emerged onto the deck, we saw a ribbon of pink against a graying sky. As the sun got higher it turned into a bright yellow band that eventually disappeared into the bright blue sky. We all ran from “port” to “starboard” and from “forward” to “aft” as the ship moved around the horn, so as not to miss a single view. It was spectacular!

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On the second day, we went through the Schollart Channel, Paradise Bay and the Gerlache Strait in the northernmost part of the Antarctic Peninsula. As we moved through these areas, we experienced all of the “seasons”. We had rain, sleet and then snow. (For some of the crew, this was the first snow they had ever seen. Hard for this western Pennsylvania girl to believe, but it was so!) When we finally stopped in the middle of Paradise Bay, the sun broke through and the waters were calm. The ship took a small pause and did a slow spin in the bay so that we could get a panorama of the area. We sat in the water in the middle of a circular cove. We were surrounded on all sides by huge mountains covered with brilliant white snow periodically interrupted by lines of black rock. I needed sunglasses in order to look directly at the snow. It was stunning!

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During the passage, we saw a variety of wildlife to include Penguins, hump-backed whales, a myriad of birds and a seal or two. My favorite was watching the Penguins as they played in the water around the ship. They looked like small dolphins as they jumped through the waves. They looked so free and joyous! Sadly, they move too fast to get pictures. But, as Lee said, we have the memory in our hearts! So true!

Our last passage was around Elephant Island. The Penguins alongside the ship guided us in to the largest glacier I have ever seen. The size even astounded the narrator as he gave us the relative dimensions. We were hoping to see seals here, but sadly, there were none. However, on a small piece of ice that jutted out from one side, we saw a flock of Penguins sunbathing on top of the ice. It made my day!

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I am still blown away by the spectacle of things I have seen on this trip. It’s daunting to think about the first explorers that came through here not knowing what they would find, if anything. I would not have the courage. But, I’m grateful for those that did. They have provided me with an experience I won’t soon forget.

And, as an FYI……in case there was any doubt, it has been wildly cold here as we have sailed through the Antarctic. Kudos to Costco, who sold me an amazing wind-breaking down jacket that rolls up and fits in a tiny pouch; Keen, who produced some of the best walking shoes I have ever had; and my friend Kathy, who lent me her warm socks. I am also, again, thanking Celebrity. They sold me a “snood” (scarf with a hood) for $10, which I have taken some ribbing for purchasing and wearing. It makes me look like a “smurf”. But, I have worn it everyday. After a few days of icy cold weather, one forgets about appearance and just “bundles up”.

Stay warm!

 

 

Ushuaia…..the End of the World……the Beginning of Everything

February 9, 2015

This is the way Ushuaia is described…..and rightly so. It is the southernmost city in the world, nestled in the tail of Argentina very near to the bottom of South America. It is the last bastion of “civilization” before embarking on the journey through the Antarctic….the beginning of the real adventure!

We spent three days cruising south and preparing for our Antarctic experience. Truth be told, based on past cruising experiences, I didn’t think I would have too much to report from these first few “sea days”. Usually, these days are a mélange of sleeping, eating and drinking more than we should and not much else. But, much to my surprise, this has been a bit of a different experience. While I have to admit to partaking in the aforementioned gluttony, this time I have also participated in many of the onboard educational experiences. I have traveled so much in the last months, that I didn’t have time to do the proper research to gain a good understanding of what I would see here in the Antarctic. I thought I should get a tutorial! There might be a test later!

I have to give Celebrity a hand on this. They have found several excellent speakers who have given us a very good and understandable overview of things to look for as we cruise through the Antarctic. They have also given us a great overview geographically of where we are and where we are going. Not only are the speakers knowledgeable, they are also entertaining. Just great! They have encouraged us to “do something great” as we move along on the ship. I like this!

In the presentations, we have been educated on a multitude of fish, animals, and birds that are native to this area and readily visible from time to time as you look out to the sea. I have already seen several schools of jumping dolphins and some Albatross that, as predicted by the speakers, are following the ship as we head south. Remarkable!

I also found our stop in Ushuaia to be quite remarkable.

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We spent our day there touring through the Tierra del Fuego National Park, which is a great example of the absolute splendor and diversity of this little slice of Patagonia. Our tour guide, Gabriel, walked us through a forested area filled with webs of birch trees to a waterway where some of the local beavers had been industriously building dams. The beavers, quite numerous in this area, work at night, so we didn’t actually see them, but we did see some of their handiwork. They had been quite busy.

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We also viewed the coastal areas of the park as well as Lago Acigami, which were all just breathtaking.   We walked alongside the water on “board walks”, took pictures and just took it all in. The water, set against the snow-covered mountains in the background, was some of the most stunning scenery I have seen. It looked like the back drop for a movie.

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Gabriel then took us to the post office, which was also situated on the waterfront, where many of us mailed postcards to ourselves from “the end of the world”. It was quite an experience for all of us.

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After we left the tour, a group of us had lunch at a restaurant where the “locals” in town go for “Fuegian King Crab”, a specialty of the area. We had a very large bowl of crabmeat submerged in a pleasantly spicy red sauce. It was very like the ciopino we get at our favorite restaurant in San Luis Obispo.  And, of course, I had some wine. YUM!

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Lee and I boarded the ship late in the afternoon, but not before picking up a certificate from the local tourist office proving that we had, indeed, been to the “end of the world”…..a little kitchy, but a nice memory!

Tomorrow is the “beginning of everything” part. We will be rounding Cape Horn at about 6:00 am, as we continue south to the top of the Antarctic. We will be up and at ‘em at 5:30. Wouldn’t want to miss anything!

So, I will sign off for now. But, until we meet again, I will challenge you to “do something great!” It’s working out for me!

Ciao!

By the way, for those of you following my fun bathroom tales, here’s another for you.  I think these are the funniest of the signs I have seen so far on this trip.  We found these in the national park.  Also, check out the flushing mechanism in the port-a-potty!  It was like being in a video game.  HA!

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Wow! Did You Get Some Sun……

February 3, 2015

Really?!  How do you know?!  Do I have a sunburn?? Thanks for pointing that out, I hadn’t noticed!

Why do people say this to you when they see that you have a bad sunburn? Do they think you haven’t spotted it as you were getting showered and dressed for the day? Do they think you wouldn’t see the very distinct “farmer’s tan” on your arms leaving no doubt as to where your shirt ended on the day of the burn? Do they think that you don’t feel a little warmer than you did yesterday?

I’m guessing these observant folks are just trying to be helpful. Sorry to say it, but here’s a newsflash for all of you helpful and concerned people. It’s really not that helpful. It’s just a painful reminder that serves no purpose and actually intensifies the awareness.

I am fair skinned and, as I mentioned in my last post, walking my feet into “bloody stumps” in the very direct summer sun in Buenos Aires sans (without) sunscreen. So, at the end of the second day in sunny Buenos Aires, I realized that I had acquired what I would call “the mother of all sunburns” on my chest, neck and arms. It doesn’t hurt all that much, but it must be quite “shocking” for people to see, because they all feel compelled to point it out. Thanks much!

Believe it or not, I planned very carefully for this trip by bringing with me some 30+ strength sunscreen and my packable sun hat so that I could avoid this situation all together. But, the weather here is warm……..not overwhelming…… So, I haven’t felt particularly uncomfortable at any one time. It just never crossed my mind that I might get a sunburn under these conditions. I wish it had. Oh well, this too, shall pass…..Luckily, I also brought a lot of Aloe with me and I did remember to get that out!

Despite the sunburn, we did manage to press on and have a few more fun days in Buenos Aires. In our last days, we visited “Tigre”, a waterside town near the city that had a wide variety of activities. We took a train there for about $1.00 US. Such a deal!

One could ride on a boat or a ferris wheel or take a ride of another kind at the gambling tables at the very industrial looking Casino. After that, you could walk up the street and spend all of the money you just won at the large open-air market.   I didn’t think it was possible, but there were more things to buy there than I saw at the largest of the markets in France. We were literally overwhelmed by the volume of goods being sold and the crowds there.

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We also had some interesting evening events. We did manage to see a Tango show, which, sadly, we did not find to be very interesting. However, the taxi ride to the show more than made up for our disappointment. Those taxi drivers in Buenos Aires have no fear…..biggest white-knuckle ride of my life so far! YIKES!

The most interesting evening event, though, was a dinner at one of the “closed door” restaurants that are popular in Buenos Aires. It was quite an event. Lee and I, along with 6 other people from different parts of the world had a five-course meal with wine pairing around the dining room table in the home of a local chef. We had to take an “entrance exam” in order to get in that included a small essay on who we are and why we found the “family style” concept of eating so appealing. Funny! The food and wine were spectacular and the company was even more so. There were several people who were doing even more extensive travel than I have been doing in the last months and will do in the next ones. It was fascinating to talk with them about where they had been and where they were going and their reasons for being on the road. At the end of the dinner, we collected email information from everyone and will, hopefully, continue the dialogue. I can’t say that I have had a more interesting evening in quite a long time.

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So, we are now on the ship having an adventure of a different kind. We are on the second of three sea days before we get to our first stop in Ushaia, Argentina. The ship is heading to the Antarctic and will be cruising around there for several days before we head back to Buenos Aires. We expect to see a very different landscape than we are used to and some unusual and interesting sea and land animals. Yesterday, I saw three schools of dolphins jumping in the water. It was fascinating!

So far, we have experienced a dramatic change in temperature. Yesterday I sat on deck (in the shade, of course…..sunburn, remember?) in my shorts and t-shirt. Today, I am bundled up in my long pants and sweat shirt inside the ship. Tomorrow, I am guessing I will need mucklucks! Crazy!

I’ll tell you about my next adventures as I can. I understand that when we get to the Antarctic, we will not have any internet service. The ship is very clear about that as you are making your choices for the purchase of internet packages. So, we’ll see what happens.

In the meantime you can think about Lee and I trying to stay warm as we move into progressively colder temperatures. I have all of the sweaters, outerwear and warm socks that I brought with me poised and ready……. I’m guessing I will need them!

 

 

There’s a Spring in My Step in Buenos Aires…..

January 31, 2015

That’s probably not totally accurate…….there was a spring in my step right up until the time I sat down to write this blog post.  Right now, I’m not sure that  my feet would be able to muster up even a small bounce.  My traveling companion, Lee, says that we have walked so much in the two days we have been here in Buenos Aires that her feet are now “bloody stumps”!  She is so dramatic!  HA!  But, my new iPhone, that has an app that is dutifully tracking our steps, tells me that we have taken over 30,000 steps in the first two days of our trip.  So, maybe Lee isn’t too far off!  I will admit that it’s been a bit rigorous, but we both agree that it’s been fun!  And, we are boarding a ship in two days to take a cruise around the Antarctic that begins with three “sea days”.  So, we are getting our walking in now….we can rest on the ship!

Buenos Aires is quite a large city that is often divided up into nine sections. We are staying in a section called “Palermo”.  It’s a quiet area that has a bit of a “neighborhood” feel to it.  According to the tour books, it’s where the “cool” people stay and it is the hub of interesting ethnic dining in Buenos Aires.  I’ll keep you posted on that.  We were too tired to eat dinner last night after all the walking and jet lag. But, I can report that we had some really nice salads for lunch yesterday and our bed and breakfast provided us with one of the best breakfasts I have had in quite some time!

We have toured through about half of the sections, which are all quite different in feel.  As a result, we have had quite a few different experiences.  For example, today we walked through the quiet Puerto Madero area and enjoyed the sleepy parks and gardens and some interesting maritime related attractions.

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We also walked through San Telmo, which is a maze of streets that are lined with all kinds of shopping. The streets are anchored in the center by a square filled with small cafes when one can sit, have a drink and watch the people pass by.  It was quite touristy and very bussling.

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In the center of the city, which is more of a government related section, we sat in a small square and watched several groups of protestors marching in front of the primary government building.  We aren’t sure what they were concerned about, but it was interesting to watch and quite a contrast to the other things on our tour for today.

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So far, I think the highlight for me was walking through the cemetery in the Recoletta section of the city on our first day here.  It was quite peaceful.  There’s something about wandering through an old cemetery that gives one pause for reflection.  I like to think about the people that are remembered there and what they must have been like.  It’s a continuation of my fascination with people in general.  What makes people tick?  I really need to know!

I found the layout of the cemetery to be very interesting.  The mausoleums were lined up next to each other in rows like houses on a street, with the “streets” forming into something like a small town.  There was a wide variety of architecture and design, which was interesting to see.  There was no “cookie cutter” approach here.  Each mausoleum was very different from its neighbor.  Quite a few of them were very elaborate, but we saw some that were quite plain and one that was just a headstone.  It was quite old.  There were also a few that were undergoing renovation and had building permits on them.  We found it interesting that one needed a building permit to renovate what is essentially a “grave”.  But, there you have it.

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I’m sure the permitting has to do with money. It seems everything has to do with money, which by the way is worth very little here in Buenos Aires.  The economy is here is very bad, so the Argentine peso has very little value. It’s good situation for us tourists, but not so good for the people living here.  A little sad for the Argentine people.

All in all, it’s been a good start for us.  We are getting ready to head out now to what I think will be a very interesting dinner.  I’ll tell you about it on the next post.

Buenos Noches!

Joyeux Noel….Bonne Fête…..Merry Christmas….

December 25, 2014

to all…… and to all a good night!

It’s Christmas night here in Strasbourg, France the last stopover as we make our way back to Paris for the journey home.  I had heard from some of my new-found friends in Aix en Provence that if you really want to do it up right for Christmas, Strasbourg is the place to be!  They weren’t kidding!  I can’t think of anywhere I have visited that has more Christmas ambiance and spirit than Strasbourg, the home of gingerbread-style houses and Christmas markets!

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Strasbourg is a fairly large city in the heart of the Alsace section of France on the German border.  Over the years, the Alsace has been an area claimed by both Germany and France.  (Right now it’s France.)  Therefore, you get a nice little mix of both when you are anywhere in the area.

The architecture in Strasbourg is very much like many of the German towns we have visited over the years.  The streets in the old section, where we spent most of our time, are lined with buildings that look like old wooden chalets…or gingerbread houses…whichever you prefer!

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The food has a lot of influence from the German culture, as evidenced by the meal we had on our first night here.  Mike had a mound of sauerkraut with sausages and different kinds of hams.  I had “coq au reisling”, chicken braised in reisling wine.  And, I had my fill of the big, fat doughy pretzels that I love so much.  (The pretzel bar is always my first stop in Germany, Switzerland, and other places that are German-like!)  But, there is a French influence as well, as evidenced by the meal we had today, on Christmas.  It was very elegant and very nicely presented.  There’s something for everyone here!

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This region has a cooler climate and it’s quite cold here now. (We are now the proud owners of two new pairs of gloves!) The wines here are what you would expect for a cooler climate.  We have had nice reislings, pinot gris, gewürztraminers, and pinot noirs.  All were quite tasty.

Food and wine aside, though, the draw here at Christmas is the Christmas markets.  I have seen these all over France since about the middle of November.  But, none of them can touch the grandeur of those here in Strasbourg.  There are ten markets in all in different parts of the city and each one is a little different.  They are themed differently and, therefore, decorated differently.  And, they sell different things.  The areas of the city surrounding each market are also decorated to compliment the style of the market.  Suffice to say if you don’t find what you want here, it doesn’t exist!  Truth be told, we didn’t make it to all the markets….I think we hit about five.  That was enough for me.  But, it was quite a Christmas spectacular that I am glad to have been a part of.

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I did see some fun Christmas things in other places I visited as well.  So, I thought I would include some pictures of Christmas in France!  I hope you enjoy them!  I certainly enjoyed enjoyed getting them!

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This is one of my favorite photos, probably because it was fun to get.  It’s also cute. I engaged (en français) a man who was walking with a dog that was dressed in Santa Claus garb, to ask if I could take a picture of the dog.  He was thrilled!  He spoke to the dog in French and asked him to sit and “regardez la Madame” (look at the woman)….and, he did!

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The fun of getting this photograph made me think again of something important that I have thought about over and over again on this trip. (Not every day was as exciting as I would like you to think.) Some simple joys of life can be gleaned even from the small things that cross your path each day, even on the days when those things are hard to find.  Sometimes we just need to look for them!

So, as Christmas Day 2014 comes to a close here in France, I would like to wish you all the best for the holiday and for 2015!

Going forward,  I plan to make the most of each day and find the joy in each moment.  I hope you will do the same!

PAUL BOCUSE LIVES ON….IN LYON…..

December 24, 2014

A number of years ago, I traveled to Paris with my sister and her family. I was between jobs and they needed someone to fill in a space to make a double in one of the rooms. Aside of the fact that, even then, I was a fun traveler….HA!……there was an issue of cost. It’s always more expensive to have someone in a single room. It’s always better to share the cost with another person. So, I agreed to go along, on the condition that my sister would be OK with me leaving the group from time to time to have an adventure or two on my own.   Seemed OK to them, so I signed up. It was a fun trip that was highlighted by a solo adventure by train from Paris to Lyon for lunch at the Paul Bocuse restaurant.

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The story is a good one and, if you are interested in hearing it, give me a call. I love sharing it! It always makes me smile! Suffice to say that I had the greatest meal I had ever had to that point….and….I met Paul Bocuse himself. He gave me a great big kiss on the lips, put his arm around me and, under the restaurant sign, happily posed for a picture with me…..which I still have. I was reminded again of this story as we left Lyon today on our way to Strasbourg for Christmas. As the train pulled away, I looked up and out the window and what did I see but the very restaurant where I had that experience all those years ago. It was a fun “déjà vous” !

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Paul Bocuse, for those of you who may not know, is a famous chef who made a name for himself, and a little bit of money I’m guessing, with his Lyon based Michelin rated restaurant and the “brasseries” that followed. Actually, he was one of the pioneers, along with Julia Child, who introduced us Americans to the finer points of eating…. and French food. He helped to carve out a place for “fine dining” all over the world.

Paul is an institution in Lyon as is evidenced by the above-mentioned restaurant and brasseries, a cooking school and the multiple and many references to him throughout the city. I think there is also a connection to him with the small restaurants, called “bouchons” that serve “typical Lyonnaise” food.” It appears that in order to be called a “bouchon”, one must have a certificate of authenticity. I’m guessing that Paul Bocuse had a hand in this one, too!

Lyon is a place for good eating, and I have to say that we easily followed this path during our visit there. We did make it around to one of the four Paul Bocuse “brasseries”, to one of the most traditional “ bouchons”….and to one that was not so traditional…..and we had dinner at the restaurant of the arch enemy of Paul Bocuse, Georges Blanc. (This felt very sinister and a little disloyal…..but, the food was really good!) Wrap that up with a couple of visits to some “patissiers” and the Christmas market where we had sauerkraut with sausage, potatoes in a cream and chive sauce and some “vin chaud” (hot wine), and I would say that we have been, as Mike says, “diabolically saracified”.

My tummy is full of this yummy food!

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You will be happy to know that we did more than just eat. I know it’s hard to believe. But, Lyon is also a fantastic city in many other ways as well. The views and the skylines are lovely, the shopping is great and here, as in many of the places I have visited on this trip, one is compelled to just wander through the city and look. And, being here at Christmas is very special. One can really feel the excitement of the holiday with the decorations, lights and festive spirit of the people! I loved it!

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I spent a fair amount of time wandering through the Bellecour section of the city, which is where we stayed in our hotel that overlooked the Rhone River. According to the taxi driver that brought us in from the train station, this is the best positioned area of the city…..right in the middle of everything. We were on Presqu’ile, a piece of land reminiscent of an island, between the Rhone River and the Saone River. The driver was right, it was a great location….easy to walk to many of the main sites of the city…..and to the best restaurants!

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I was ready to have a first class hotel experience, and, so we did this at the Sofitel, another hotel offered by the Accor Hotel chain that I told you about in the last post. It’s on the other end of the ambiance scale from the Ibis Styles. I loved them both, but they were very different. We had a little bit of pampering and a great view!

In our Bellecour section there was a lot of high end shopping and eating. We bought a few things, not many. Mostly, just “leche-vitrine” (window shopping) and walked. It was fun!

On one of the days, I wandered over the bridge crossing the Saone River and explored “Vielle Lyon” (old Lyon). It was different from the Bellecour section with old buildings and tiny, narrow streets lined with shops, cafés and restaurants. Lyon is also known for overhangs that connect the old buildings together. There were a number of these in the older section that were interesting to explore.

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On our last day, I convinced Mike that he should go with me to visit the old church on the top of the hill beyond the Saone River. It was the coldest day we had in Lyon. I don’t know what the temperature was, but we were both formed into a block of ice when we got back the hotel room. (I’m still thawing out!)

We climbed up the hill to the church by “funicular”. Not only was the view spectacular, but the church was also quite grand and on par with many of the larger old churches I have seen on this trip. It was well worth the visit.

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So, “that’s about all folks” on the visit to Lyon. I liked it so much that I may go back next year in the fall for some more French classes and maybe some cooking classes. There is a “Paul Bocuse Cooking Institute” near the hotel where we stayed.

I have checked it out, and I’m sure they will be willing to accept me should I dare to do this. I feel the need to support the mission of Paul Bocuse for fine and elegant dining. And, what better way to further my prowess with the french language.  After that, I will need to buy a new wardrobe to accommodate my new dress size. I think I can do that in Lyon, too.

Stay tuned!

Passing Time in the Timelessness of Nimes….

December 22, 2014

Last week, as I moved closer to the last few weeks of my stay in the south of France, I decided that I should consult the list of things I had hoped to do and places I had hoped to visit when I started out on this great adventure…..just to be sure I hadn’t missed something.  I hate missing things!  As I reviewed the list and thought about my experiences, I think it’s fair to say that I covered a lot of ground.  I missed a few things and a few places…..but only a few!

However, in contemplating how best to spend my last few weeks in France, Nimes bubbled up to the top of the list of places yet to be visited. It had been recommended by several people as a great city for ambiance,  food and some of the best Roman ruins in the area! Sounds like my kind of combination!  So, I was off!  I boarded the train on Thursday from Aix en Provence and looked forward to my long weekend in Nimes!

What a great stop!

My best description of Nimes is that it is “timeless”.  It’s a city that is just a little smaller than Aix en Provence….by about 50,000 people, I think.  But, the pace seemed similar.  You could leisurely wander the narrow, cobbled streets between the old buildings and find just about anything….or nothing.  There were the same “patissiers” and “boulangeries”, some of the same stores, and lots of places where the streets come together in a “square” housing many small cafes where one could while away the day drinking coffee, hot chocolate or something else while watching people.  The thing that was different about Nimes is that you could be aimlessly wandering through some of the old streets, losing
all track of time, look up and see an ancient Roman ruin…..right there in front of you!  I had a similar feeling in Arles when I visited a few years ago, but Nimes was different. Unlike Arles, where the ruins were on the outside of the town, in Nimes, it seemed that the town grew up around the ruins and incorporated them into the every day function of the city.  I thought it was quite unique.  In Nimes, one is always in the midst of a mixture of the modern verses the aged.  It was quite something.

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As usual, I had some favorite things that I would like to tell you about…..

The first success, which was not a Roman ruin, was my stay at the Ibis Styles Hotel, one of the budget hotel options offered by the Accor Hotel chain.  It is located directly behind the train station.  I was coming to Nimes from Aix en Provence by train and Mike was coming from Paris by train to meet me, so the location was ideal.  And, even better, a quick walk out of the hotel and through the train station brought us to a scenic walkway that led right into the middle of town.

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Right at the end of the walkway was the first of the Roman ruins, the arena.  It is reminiscent of the arena that I saw in Arles and the colosseum in Rome.  However, it is better preserved than the arena in Arles and is more complete than the colosseum.  In fact, they are still using it and have bull fighting there several days during the week as well a variety of performances….. like ballet.  Strange, but true.  But, a good example of what I mean by the new meeting the old.  At night, because it was the Christmas season, there was a light show projected on the outside of the building.  It was quite striking.

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A walk forward through the old streets past a variety of clothing and shoe boutiques, restaurants, cafes, patissiers and chocolatiers brings you right up against the next of the well preserved Roman ruins, the Maison Carré.  According to my tour book, it is one of the most beautiful and best preserved of the Roman temples in Europe.  It is said that it’s Corinthian columns were an inspiration to Thomas Jefferson as he designed his buildings.  On the other side of the street was its modern counterpart.  The design of the new building mirrors the columns of the old building.  Another example of the old and the new working together.  Fascinating!

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On the north end of town was, in my opinion, the best feature in the city and my favorite collection of ruins in Nimes.  It was a park called the “Jardin de la Fontaine”.  This park uses the ruins of an ancient Roman shrine as the centerpiece.  The park itself stretches out from there.  To the south of the shrine is a large park area with fountains and multiple benches where one can take a good rest.  The extension of the park to the north provides walking paths that climb a very steep, well-coiffed and terraced garden.  The paths are lined with chestnut and elm trees with flower gardens in the background.  One could spend a lot of time there walking and contemplating life.  I spent a fair amount of time there myself.  It was lovely.

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In the lower area of the park near the Roman shrine was “Le Temple de Diane”, the remains of an ancient roman temple and some roman baths.  At the very top of the park was the “Tour Magne”, the city’s oldest Roman monument.  For a small fee, you could climb to the top and view Nimes and the surrounds.  This was probably the first of the climbing opportunities in the last 3 months that I opted out of.  I ran out of time.  But, the view from the ground was eye-popping, too….just without the climb….

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Of course, as in the other towns I have visited in my time in France, this town also had it’s fair share of old churches.  I didn’t have time to go in, but did have time to view the architecture and take some photos as I passed by.  Just beautiful!

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Oh, and we also had some really good food….some of the best of the trip to date, I think.  And, of course the wine wasn’t too shabby either here in the heart of the Langedoc wine region!

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On Sunday, as we pulled out of Nimes on the train to go back to Aix en Provence for my last few days as a resident, I felt that I had taken a step back in time and then quickly fast-forwarded to the modern day while passing a “mélange” of everything in between.  The stay in Nimes was a real study of the complement of the old and the new and how well they can fit together.

Somehow, it just works……timeless!

Shoulder to Shoulder with almost no one……..

December 15, 2014

in the “shoulder” season”…….

In all reality, when I started out here in October and even as I moved into the middle of November, it really was  the “shoulder” season.  There were some tourists, however they came mostly on the weekends.  But, now, in December a week or two before Christmas, it’s really more into the “off” season.  The joy of traveling at this time of the year is that, in general, there are not a lot of people around.  And, the people you do find are mostly locals   If you want to do something that typically attracts tourists, there are generally very few, if any, people to contend with.  You can actually walk up to things and get a good look.  And, sometimes, you receive unexpected special treatment that surprises you.  I had one such experience last week at “Chateau la Coste”.  What a great day!  Read on……..

Since almost the first day in Aix en Provence I have shared with everyone crossing my path that I work at a winery in California and have a strong interest in wine.  Each time,  I have been told that before I leave the area, I needed to make a visit to Chateau La Coste, a winery in the close-by hills near Aix en Provence.  Not only would I taste some of the best wines in the region, but I would also view some of the most interesting artwork as well.  Sounds intriguing, doesn’t it?  I thought so, too.

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So, last week, I did some research to find out how to access this little gem by bus (no car, remember?).  The helpful tourist office in town got me started and then I got in touch with the nice folks at the “chateau” and they guided me in the rest of the way.  They helped me to decide that I should take the guided tour of the artwork and the guided tour of the winery.  And, I decided that I should do it in english.  I speak some basic french now, but probably not enough to fully appreciate the explanation in french.  So, it was set.  I would do the art tour at 10:00 and the wine tour at 1:00 and have lunch in between at the restaurant they have on site.

Getting there was a little complicated, I have to say.  I had to meet a bus here in Aix en Provence and ride about an hour out of town to one of the small mountain towns that I have been telling you about.  Then, I had to meet a smaller “Navette” bus for the short ride to the “chateau”.  The interesting folks who run the “Navette” require at least one hour notice to come by and pick you up….and, they are very strict about that!  So, you have to call them one hour ahead and arrange for this.  Oh…..and they don’t speak english….only french.  YIKES!

So, needless to say, on the appointed day I was up and out early so that I had time to walk across town to the “Gare Routiere” (bus station) and meet my first bus.  At the appointed time, I got on the bus and confirmed with the driver that, yes he was going to the stop I was looking for.  (Here’s something interesting to note…I discovered after one or two rides on the local buses that they don’t always stop where the published schedule says they will.  And, sometimes the stops that go to a place don’t have a stop for the return trip.  This is not always clear on the schedule.  So, it’s always prudent to make friends with the bus driver and ask lots of questions.)

Once we were clear on the stop I wanted, I settled into my seat and called the “Navette”.  After some negotiation on the phone with those interesting people (the conversation was mostly in french with a little “franglish” mixed in) ….I was on my way.  When we got to my stop, the very kind bus driver let me know that this was the place to get off.  He wondered if I was going to taste wine.  I said I was and then he let me know that I would need to walk another little bit to get to the pick-up point of the “Navette”.

OK…..good to know…..(See what I mean about making friends with the bus driver?  I may have missed this very important fact!)

I was still about 30 minutes early and it was cold outside, so I parked myself in a cute little local bakery to warm up with a coffee and fill my tummy with a pastry while I waited.  When I went back to the appointed stop, the “Navette” was waiting for me.  I got on the bus, and off we went to the “chateau”.

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I have to admit that this whole coordination was a little more complicated than I thought it would be, and even the tour guide wondered how I got there on my own without their help.  In the end he decided it was because I speak a little bit of french and could communicate with the people at the “Navette”.  HMMMMM….maybe……I’ll have to give that one some more thought!

But, nevertheless, there I was, ready for the tour.  It was probably one of the best I have had anywhere.  And, because it was….you guessed it….. the “off” season, I was the only one on the tour.  So, I spent the next two hours on a private guided walking tour of the estate, learning about the works of art that were carefully designed for the location and strategically placed on the estate. It was fabulous!  Here are some of my favorites.

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I was going to tour the winery at 1:00 and it was around noon by the time we were done with the tour of the art.  So, the tour guide took me to the restaurant and sat me down for lunch.

He said, “Don’t worry.  You are the only one on the wine tour.  Take your time with lunch.  The guide will wait for you.”

Score!  Another private tour.  So, I took my time, had a very nice lunch and went on to the wine tour when I was done.  As it turns out, the people who own the restaurant also have one in Los Angeles.  Small world!

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The tour of the winery and the tasting that followed were outstanding as well.  I had a private guided tour of the production area, bottling line and the cave used for aging.  It was fascinating.  This was one of the most technologically advanced production areas I have ever seen….both on this trip as well as in our region at home.  All of the machinery was state of the art and all seemed to be very new.

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And, to top it off, the building where all of this was housed was specially designed on the exterior to reflect the artistry of the estate as well as to maximize efficiencies on the interior.  The building was a piece of art in and of itself.  Very interesting and creative!

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Oh, and the wines were good, too.  My favorite was a “black label” syrah that cost a whopping $45.00 Euro.  I really wanted to buy some.  But, it was a little out of my price range for this day.  And, honestly, I didn’t know how I would be able to drink the four bottles I already had at the apartment before I head back home.  So, I declined.

When I had seen everything that there was to see, the nice tour guide I had at the beginning called the “Navette” for me so that I could return to Aix en Provence.  Then……….my last complication for the day….the “Navette” pulled up to the main bus stop where I would get the bus back just as it was pulling away.  I started to get out of the “Navette” and the driver shouted (en français), “No! Get back in!”  I did and he quickly took me a back route to the next stop so that I could meet the bus there instead.   I would have waited another hour for the next one if I had missed it!  What a nice guy!  A perfect ending to a perfect day!

I will also throw this in…..all of the bus drivers complimented me on my use of the french language.  None of them had any english, so we communicated in french.  Success!

So, my thoughts are this…some things, even though they are complicated and difficult to achieve, are well worth the effort….like learning french and coordinating bus transportation to remote spots such as this one………. and………the private tours are nice, too!

You gotta’ love the “shoulder” season……….and, the “off” season isn’t too bad, either!

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nice to Meet You…..

December 9, 2014

Parler….parler…..chat…..parler…..connect……parler…..chat……on and on it goes….

Here’s a news flash for you….I love to travel! I love to see new things, experience new cultures and marvel at the wonders of the areas that I am visiting.  But for me, equal to seeing the “things” along the way,  is meeting the people as I go along.  I have told you about a few of them in my past blog posts.

I seem to connect with interesting people wherever I go.   Sometimes I find them……and, sometimes they find me. On this trip, it has been a good mix of both. But, regardless of how I find them, people just seem to be comfortable telling me their stories, no matter what the situation.  And, somehow, I just can’t turn away.  I like to hear the stories (although, I have to admit I have heard some stories over the course of time that I could have done without.  HA!).  Tony, my friend at the winery where I work, says people share information with me because I always ask questions.  It’s true.  When people start talking, I start asking questions.  And, before I know it, I have made a connection.

At the beginning of my sojourn, I didn’t need to make an effort to meet people.  I had a nice start, thanks to my San Luis Obispo “coach”.  Then, I started the classes at the school.  There, we were a “mélange”of people trying to learn to speak french.  We were in class together everyday in a very intimate learning situation.  How could you not meet people and connect?!  But, now, after the classes are over, it’s a little different.  It takes a little more effort to connect.  So,  I have put my networking skills into play.  I’m happy to say that it’s working!  I have met some pretty interesting and amazing people in the last few weeks from all over world.  And, I’m kind of impressed with myself for having made the effort to find them.

I’d like to tell you about the nice people I have met here in France “on my own steam”.

My first encounter took place on the day after Thanksgiving.  After about two almost solid weeks of wind and rain, I decided that I needed to treat myself to a really nice meal.  So, I got on the internet and in my usual research method checked out the reviews on TripAdvisor and Yelp.  After some research, I decided on a restaurant named “L’Alcove”.  It was highly rated on both sites and not too far from my apartment.  So, I called and made a reservation.

It took me a minute to find it.  It is in an old section of town on one of those narrow, winding streets that are so common here in Aix en Provence.  After I entered the foyer of the restaurant, I carefully made my way down a very tiny circular staircase into the dining room.  It was a challenge on par with mounting the stairs in some of the old castles I have visited in my time here……especially challenging for those of us with eye issues.  But, I made it, got to my table that was in a room with about 10 tables and sat down.

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In a few minutes, a woman came in and sat at the table behind me.  She turned around and, en français, asked me she could join me.  Of course, I said “yes”.  Before we knew it, we were talking, en anglais, about our common experience at the IS Language School (she was just finishing up) and our home country of the United States.  My delightful dinner companion was an attorney from Manhattan who, like me, has a fascination with the french culture.  Over a wonderful…and lengthy…..dinner of foie gras, veal with mushroom sauce, and of course, wine, we compared notes on a wide variety of things from learning french to retirement to the holidays and beyond.  On parting we exchanged email addresses so that we could stay in touch and she could find and read my blog.   What a nice dinner surprise!

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My next encounter was even more surprising.  I mentioned in an earlier post that I had begun exploring the small towns outside of Aix that I could get to by bus.  On one of the days, I visited Puyloubier in the heart of the wine region.  I was too late to do any tasting and, so, thought I would go back the next day at a better time during the day.  Sadly, it rained the next day and I didn’t feel like tramping around in the rain to do wine tasting. (This was before the purchase of the quirky rubber boots!)  So, instead, I stopped in at Adrian’s coffee emporium to have a coffee and work on my blog post.

It was mobbed!  There were people everywhere.  They were all Americans who were cruising the Mediterranean and had stopped off for a guided tour of Aix en Provence.  We chatted (they were very interested in what I was doing here)…..and then the tour guide joined us.  I told her what I was doing in Aix en Provence and mentioned that now that my classes were over, I was looking for someone to practice my french with.  Maybe she knew someone who might be interested.

After a bit of thought, she said, “What about me?  It’s now the off season for my business and it’s very slow, so I have time.  I want to improve my english.  Maybe we can help each other.”

Deal!

She and I have met twice since then to practice.  Of course, as we have been talking, we have gotten to know each other a little bit.  We find that we have a lot in common with our love of travel, food and wine and also our interest in languages.  Yesterday, she took me out of Aix for lunch, to tour some of the local wine country and to visit Ventabren, one of the small hill towns, which was just beautiful.  Even she was amazed at how lovely it was with its Christmas lights in full force.  She had never been there at Christmas!  Hard to believe!

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I have to throw this in as well.  I had a very adventurous lunch at this cute little local restaurant we went to.  I had something called “poulpe”, better known to you as “octopus”.  It was done like a “beef bourguignon”.  I can say without a doubt that I would not have tried this had I not been with my new friend.  Octopus…..hmmmmm…But, it was delicious!  I’m glad I had the experience!

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We chatted along and before we knew it, it was dark and we needed to part.  But, what a great afternoon.  Sadly, this will be my last opportunity to spend time with her.  But, we have exchanged email information and I am certain we will be in touch.   She, too, is interested in doing an immersion….but, in the United States to improve her english.  Who knows, maybe she will be our next visitor for the guest house!

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I found my next group of people on the internet of all things.  In San Luis Obispo, we have an internet organization, called “meet-up” that connects people with common interests.  I wasn’t sure, but I thought they were at least a national organization.  So, I went to my trusty lap top and started to search for a “meet-up” group, or something like it, in Aix en Provence.

Much to my surprise, I found a group of people here who are doing a “language exchange”.  About 15-20 people meet on a weekly basis to talk to people who are trying to improve either their english or their french.  They were meeting at a cafe in town that I knew, so I decided to try it out.  I have now gone several times and have met people from Germany, France, Ireland, India, New Zealand, Romania…..and the list goes on.  Most of them are in France for work.  But, some are here just because they wanted to live in France for awhile.  Most of them are trying to learn english, but a few are english speakers that are trying to learn french.  It’s quite an eclectic group…and the conversation is rousing at times!

I had coffee today with one member of the group who writes novels.  We met at a little book store here in town that caters to an english-speaking clientele.  They sell her books translated into English from German.  They were on special today, so I bought a few.  She signed them.  (Some of you will be getting a copy for Christmas.  I thought this was fun!)  My German friend would like to do a language immersion in the United States to improve her english.  We talked about her renting our little guest house in California for a time.  We exchanged information.  Maybe she will be the second visitor for the guest house!  Who knows!

I realized at the end of my day today, that during this french “immersion”, I have “parlèed” and chatted with more people from more places than I ever dreamed possible……and, I made a few friends along the way……Some will be friends for a day and some will be friends for a longer time.  Either way, I have benefitted from meeting all of them and the memory of their smiling faces and helpful chatter will be stamped in my mind for a lifetime!