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Double Decker Discoveries……

January 26, 2018

Double Decker Discoveries…..

….in Mexico City…..

While the  private guide is the best way to understand the local’s perspective of a specific part of a city, the best way to get a broad overview of the whole city and to cover a lot of ground is to take the double-decker bus. Every large city that I have ever visited has one. Mexico City was no different. Passengers get on the bus at a central location, take a loop around the city and get off at any one or more of the many city sites on the route of the bus. Our exploration on the first day revealed that we could get a ticket for the day for $8. We would drive through the neighborhoods with a recorded commentary…..and……we could get off at the Anthropology Museum, which was our museum of choice for this trip.

Sold!

We climbed on board and started out through the Zocalo district and headed out towards the Chapultepec neighborhood that houses the Anthropology Museum. On our way, we rode through many of the neighborhoods……

…..to include the Polanco, which is famous for its high end shopping, hotels and restaurants.

Two hours later……really bad traffic……we reached our destination at the Anthropology Museum. The area where the museum is located was fashioned after Central Park in New York City. On one side of the street was a man-made lake where people were pedaling small boats.

On the other side of the street was another park area with vendors selling snacks and trinkets.

It was quite reminiscent of my stroll through Central Park on my trip to New York City this past summer.

At the museum, we learned all about the ancient cultures of Mexico. As is the case when we visited Peru, I was amazed that these ancient cultures were able to produce such detailed and intricate artwork without any real tools.  They were highly skilled in mathematics and logistics.

Check out the little faces in these flowers…….

It was incredible!

In addition to the art, we also found some displays of the old cities and some of the pyramids near Mexico City.

On a previous day, we had visited Teotihuacan….

….one of the old cities housing some of the pyramids of the old cultures. It was interesting to get the tutorial here at the museum.  At the museum we learned about the old cities and at Teotihuacan we were able to see…..up close and personal…..examples of the handiwork of the ancient Mexican cultures. The stars here were the architecture and the well-preserved murals.

Unlike what we found in Peru, the stones that made up the city walls were connected together with mortar studded with smaller stones.

The city is anchored on one end by the pyramid of the moon and on the other end by the pyramid of the sun. Both pyramids house the remains of early rulers of Teotihuacan. 242 stairs ascend one side of the pyramid of the sun, which is the one our tour guide encouraged us to climb.

Why not?!

The stairs were straight up and had a very uneven rise making it very difficult to find a balance.

It felt like we were scaling a wall. We lifted our knees high in order to make the rise and huffed and puffed our way to the top. Then, we came back down via our butts taking a slide on the steps.

Really challenging!

My tall travel buddy had a particularly difficult time on the way down. She’s much further from the ground than I am which added to the challenge. But, it was well worth it!

Our experience on the double-decker bus and at the museum were worth it, too!  It was a great couple of days!

This was the end of our tour of the delights of Mexico City as described by private guides, seen from double-decker buses and experienced through simple observation.

I loved every minute of it!

I will be back!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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To Guide or Not to Guide…..

January 24, 2018

To Guide or Not to Guide……..

…….that is the question…….

In years past when traveling to new places, I never hired a guide to give me a tour of anything. I did my research, took along tour books and saw what I could. I still do that.  But, ever since my trip to Costa Rica a few years ago when I hired someone to walk me through Manuel Antonio Park, I have changed my leanings on this for some types of exploration. In Manuel Antonio, the guide pointed out animals that blended into the flora of the forest that I would never have seen had he not pointed them out. I find it the same with a walking tour when the walk is the main event.   Last week in the Cardesa and Roma sections of Mexico City, had we not opted to hire a private guide, we would have missed some of the interesting, more obscure things in these areas as well as their stories, which is the point of the exercise.

A private guide, you say?!

Isn’t that expensive?!

Well……it depends on your perspective. We had a full 9 hour walking tour that included transportation to and from our hotel, a multi-course lunch in a French deli……with a bottle of wine……,

……..a coffee at the “witches coffee shop…..here are the pictures of the witches……..,

and a special Mexican chocolate treat in the mid-afternoon just as we were needing a boost.   But, the best value of the tour was in the expertise and knowledge of our trained local tour guide, Roberto, who walked us through the neighborhood where he lives and the one adjacent to visit and view some of the places that are on his personal “hit parade”.

What is that worth? Let’s see………

As we walked along, we got a lesson on the history of Mexico City and how these neighborhoods were developed. Mexico City has 22 million inhabitants in a 60 square mile area. It is the third largest mass of people per square foot in the world. The city sits on a maze of canals that were filled in years ago, so the foundation of the city has some weaknesses. Some of the buildings are sinking.

The neighborhoods were developed and designed by European immigrants who came to Mexico City and incorporated elements of their own culture into the areas where they settled.

For example, the Roma neighborhood was an area where many wealthy French immigrants settled. Much of the architecture there reflects the Gothic style that is typical of the older sections of France. You can see this reflected in this old home.

Inside the house was a mixture of the Gothic, Baroque and Art Deco styles of design.

Across the street was another house that looked very similar. And, across the street from both of them was the church that anchored the neighborhood, built by the people who lived in these homes.

Next to the church was a small museum that most people miss that tells the story of Father Miguel Pro who was executed by the Mexican government in the early 1900s for going against the government’s ban on religion. The Mexican government thought that the church was getting a little too full of itself. Imagine that!

It’s all about control…..isn’t everything?

So, Father Pro went underground to perform church services, weddings, funerals and other religious rites. When his antics were discovered by the government, he was made an example and killed at gunpoint, execution style…..with his arms outstretched….a martyr. He is in line now to become a saint.

I can support that.   No one is asking me. But, if they do, he has my vote!

Our guide took us to several of his favorite art galleries, which are abundant in the Roma area. And, we visited the home of Ramon Lopez Valarde, a famous Mexican poet……deceased of course.

In the home, we walked through the closet in his bedroom…

yes, the closet….

….to a very secretive avant-garde museum that reflects his lifetime struggle with his own internal opposing thoughts. For example, he wanted to be a priest, but liked the ladies too much….had syphilis in fact when he died, which put him out of the running for priesthood. The whole museum was set up to reflect these dichotomies. It was highly unusual, but very interesting…..and off the beaten path.

In the Cardesa neighborhood we found a more residential feel with groupings of restaurants and shops at different intervals in between the houses and apartments.  This area was developed by a group of Jewish immigrants. Again, there was a mix of architectural styles reflected in the houses and shops that lined the streets.

It was also here that we saw some of the sad devastation from the recent earthquake.

Although the Cardesa section seemed more residential, both of these neighborhoods had lots of green spaces for the enjoyment of the residents.

They were delightful.

Now……back to the question on the value of the private guide.

We saw things that were obvious. But, we also saw many things we would have not found on our own. Without the guide we would have been looking at the sections and the buildings. But, we really wouldn’t have learned too much. And, we wouldn’t have gotten the personal insights into Mexico City and the neighborhoods that we gleaned from talking to Roberto.

And, honestly, in places like Mexico, a private guide doesn’t cost as much as you think it might. We were happily surprised when we tallied up our bill at the end of the day.

So, what’s a private guide worth, you ask?

I say….. it’s “priceless”…….

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Blown Away……

January 23, 2018

…by Mexico City….

I’m not sure what I was expecting from Mexico City when I agreed to meet my travel buddy, Jody, there for a few days before we headed out to San Miguel de Allende for a “girls” weekend with some former work buddies. Lately, I had read that Mexico City is an up and coming travel destination boasting excellent food, amazing accommodations, incredible art and interesting architecture. But, I had no idea that I would find so much there in my four days of exploration. I left there feeling totally blown away……..and totally wanting more.

Mexico City is divided into neighborhoods much like those that I found in Buenos Aires when I visited a few years back. We visited……or at least passed through……most of the neighborhoods that tourists frequent and found each one to be interesting in its own way with its own unique characteristic.

Our first exploration was in the area around our hotel in the “Zocalo” neighborhood, which is the heart of the city. Our hotel was directly across from a grand cathedral planted in the middle of a large square.

The hotel has a rooftop restaurant where we had breakfast every day, evening drinks and a few light dinners.

From this vantage point, we had a great view of the “action” around the cathedral as well as other interesting points in the square. Much to our surprise, this included an ice skating rink, of all things, at one end, which we decided was probably a leftover from Christmas.

We wandered through the square on our first day, which happened to be Sunday, and found a group of people who had come by to be “purified” in a traditional ceremony.

The “purification” ceremony was, of course, of interest to us, as we thought that we may also need to be “purified”.

One can never be too sure. After some close observation, though, we decided that we were “pure” enough and, so, didn’t participate. But, Jody did come across someone who we both thought would make a fine next husband for one of us….very cute…well built with a very tight butt….and, as a bonus, very creative attire.

We left the ceremony and did some more wandering through the Zocalo section and discovered a lovely park…..

……..lots of street vendors and a multitude of art museums.

One of the museums had a classical music concert being projected on a screen outside. There were lots of local people sitting in rows listening to the music. What a lovely way to spend a Sunday afternoon.

Jody and I are both veteran travelers, so this next point of interest will be hard to believe. Neither of us anticipated that we might have cool weather. Jody was a little more prepared than I was, with a light sweater, thin scarf and some closed toed shoes.

But, not me!

I came with the clothes I would wear at home at this time of the year….light tops, summer weight pants and summery shoes. I did have a sweater. But, as Jody pointed out, its weave had large holes, which wouldn’t provide much warmth with morning and evening temperatures anywhere from 35-55 degrees. So, we spent a fair amount of time on the first day on the shop-lined pedestrian street behind the hotel shopping for an outfit of warm clothes for me. I bought a sweater jacket, long sleeved shirt and a scarf that I used mostly as a blanket. With my funny brown packable hat, I looked like a true local.

I wore this getup every day…..same shirt, different day as they say. I am still wearing the outfit on my travel back home.

You are lucky to be reading this from another location! I desperately need a change!

In our Zocalo neighborhood we also found the first in a 10 day line-up of very inexpensive, but excellent food experiences. Our best deal on food, was at a pizza restaurant on one of the side streets from our hotel. We had 2 bottles of water, 2 Heinekens and 2 personal sized pizzas for about $10. And, it was good!

It was also here that we learned the Spanish word for bottle…..botella….for those of you who don’t know. The waiter had no English and I almost ended up with a “draft” beer, which would be just fine in the United States. But, I wasn’t sure about Mexico. I am a careful drinker in places where the water is suspect. Is there water in “draft” beer? No idea….and no reason to tempt fate. But, we had a good evening snack and a lot of fun trying to communicate with the wait staff.

So, we decided after our first day, that we were going to like this city. And, I decided that my maneuver through the complications of getting out of my small town for this adventure would be worth the effort if the other days were as good as this one!

I was hopeful………

….and blown away by my first day in Mexico City……

 

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In and Out…..

January 22, 2018

….does it really need to be this complicated?

There are many things that I have learned to appreciate about small town living since relocating 10 years ago to the little coastal town in California that I now call home. I like the intimate feel of things that makes it easy to know your neighbors, the ease in which one can become involved in the community and the short distances to places of business that make running errands a morning activity rather than an all day affair. In addition, I have a wonderful group of friends that I love, a couple of colleges in my backyard that provide intellectual stimulation and culture, and beaches that are lovely and close by.  The weather is great.  And, I am right in the middle of wine country.

What’s not to like?

Generally, I feel very satisfied.

Satisfied, that is, until my wanderlust hits…which is pretty often…. and I feel the need for a travel adventure.

As I begin to negotiate the challenges of getting in and out….to go almost anywhere…..I wonder if I really am a small town gal. I’m beginning to think that I might be a city slicker in hiding. I’m almost at the end of my Mexico travel adventure and I’m still thinking about the convoluted schedule I took to get here and the complex path I will take to get back home.

I’m pooped!

One would think that getting somewhere in Mexico would be simple from a location in California. We are just north of Mexico after all. In fact, if you live in Los Angeles, San Diego, San Francisco or another of the bigger cities it actually is pretty easy. These airports typically offer nonstop flights and there are lots of them to choose from. And, they are usually reasonable priced.

Not so from my small town.

We have a small regional airport that can get you to a bigger city, but the cost of doing business in our small airport is quite high much of the time. Every now and then you can hit it just right and it turns out to be reasonably priced. But, it’s not the norm.

The other option we have is another airport about 30 minutes down the road. You can’t actually fly from there to any of the other major California airports. But, you can take a driving shuttle to Los Angeles, which gets you to the airport in about 3.5 hours. It’s often the best choice, but it’s complicated.  Nevertheless, this was the route I chose in order to get to my destination in Mexico.

The cost was good and the flight times were good…or so I thought.

When I booked my outbound fight for 1:30 in the afternoon and my inbound flight to get back to Los Angeles at 9:30 pm, I thought I could get the driving shuttle to and from Los Angeles at a reasonable time.

Nope!

My first problem was the outbound flight. In order to catch my 1:15 pm flight and have the required time for security, I would have to get the 5:30 am shuttle. This means that I would have to be up at 3:30 am to get myself moving and onboard the shuttle.

This was not happening!

Then, there is the return trip home. The shuttle company used to have runs leaving Los Angeles up until midnight.  Not any more. Now, the last shuttle leaves the airport at 9:30 pm making it impossible for me to get the last shuttle back.

So, my easy, short and inexpensive vacation has now become complicated, long and costly, as I now have to stay at a hotel near the Los Angeles airport on either side of my trip so that I can catch my flights and then the shuttle back to my small town.  When I calculated the total cost, it was more than it would have cost me to just leave from our small airport in the first place….which by the way was a ridiculous amount. And, now I am spending extra days.

As someone who travels a lot, I find this very frustrating.

It’s really no one’s fault. It’s just the way it works in a small town. Despite all of the good things that are easier to negotiate in a small town, one needs to be creative with many other things in order to achieve priorities. I have become very good at thinking outside the box on things like getting to Mexico from California. But, as I get older, I am becoming less flexible and less creative.

So, I am researching…..

Researching ways to make this easier for my next adventure.

Travel should not be this complicated.

Right?

 

 

Posted in Solo Travel for Women, South America, Uncategorized | Leave a Comment »

Christmas Pine Tree Ice Cream…….

November 30, 2017

Christmas Pine Tree Ice Cream…….

And other French Canadian Culinary delights……

Last night, I had the best meal of my trip to “Nouvelle France” (aka, Montreal and Quebec City). I almost never get dessert when I am eating out. Especially, if I am alone. I can’t eat that much, and I am not really a sweet eater. But, my meal last night was so good, that when the waiter asked me if I would like to have dessert, I said,

“What are you recommending?

And

“Is this something that you like to eat?”

He recommended that I try the “poor man’s pudding”. It came with a dollop of home-made Christmas Tree ice cream.

I thought he was kidding.

“No”, he said. “I’m not kidding. The chef makes it with the pine needles that come from the Christmas Pine tree that grows in his back yard.”

I have been on a mission this year to learn perfect my skills in making home-made ice cream. I’ve done pretty well, as some of my “taster” friends will tell you. The secret is perfecting the base and getting it cold enough to freeze in the churn. In my testing, I have found that a cooked custard base is best. It makes a super rich and creamy ice cream. You can put any flavor you want with it and you will not be disappointed. The restaurant I chose for last night, “Rioux and Pettigrew”…..

…..follows the same path. And, as I learned last night, even the taste of pine works if you have a very good custard base.

I have to say that I was questioning my judgment about eating the essence of pine needles. Somehow, I had the idea that pine needles are poisonous. And, I thought about that a bit as I was eating this. But, it was just so darn good that I kept on eating. Being poisoned by pine sap might not be the best way to go. But, it wouldn’t be the worst way to go either…..especially with this intriguing and delicious flavor as my last memory.

Yum!

Anyway, the pudding was more like a brown sugar cake, if you can imagine it. It was topped with a stinky, runny cheese whose name I can’t tell you. But, it was like brie. On the side of this whole thing that had been warmed, was a dollop of Christmas Pine Tree ice cream. It was fantastic! And, it reminded me of Christmas…well, maybe I built that part up in my mind because of the name. But, it was good.

My meal was also fantastic! I had a pot-au-feu, a kind of beef stew.

This one was made with melt in your mouth beef cheeks and sweet roasted root vegetables all plated on the top of a mound of home-made mashed potatoes covered in a rich “au jus” that gave it a richness, depth and warmth that was perfect for a cold evening. I paired it with a St. Emillon blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and maybe something else, which I didn’t want to pay for. But, I wanted it. So, I got it. And, it was a great choice for pairing with this meal.

I was so taken by this meal, that I went back to the open-air kitchen to congratulate the chef. He was gone, but I found these two “sous chefs”…..

…..who probably did most of the cooking anyway, and praised them highly for their success in the kitchen. They asked me to put a review up on Trip Advisor, which I will do. The whole experience….the food, the wine, the wait staff and the “sous chefs” were absolutely outstanding.

My best food has been here in Quebec City. I found the food in Montreal to be average and expensive, although I did have some good meals. But, here, I have had some very creative and interesting food in small cafes right around the corner from my hotel.

Cafe St. Malo was another winner.

This small, French Bistro offered French country food at it’s best. It is a small restaurant with tables that are tightly fitted together like the pieces of a puzzle.

I had the traditional “Cassoulet” there, a stew of cannellini beans, “boudin” sausage and a duck leg, all of which had been simmered together in a chicken stock and tomato based broth…..It was fabulous and another kind of “comfort food” for a cold, wintery day.

Again, here, not only was the food good, but the atmosphere was spectacular. Because the tables were so close together, it made it easy for me to talk to my neighbors. We spent the evening chatting on about random things. It reminded me of a trip to Italy and another in Arles, France, years ago where I had a similar meal in a restaurant of about 6 tables. The sharing of stories, food and wine created experiences to remember. I will never forget them.  And, I will never forget my experience at the Malo Café.

Another highlight of my food extravaganzas here in Quebec was at a small bistro that had been recommended by two New Jersey boys that I met on my first day here. When I asked the server whether I should have the onion soup of the pea soup, which I also like and was the soup of the day, she, without hesitation, said,

“I would have the onion soup. Onion soup is a classic for a reason.”

So, I had onion soup.

But, it wasn’t just any onion soup. It was in a deconstructed style, with gruyere cheese topped toasted baguette pieces resting on long strips of carmelized onions that were also sprinkled with tiny cubes of gruyere. It was so pretty, that I hated to eat it. But, I ate it anyway. It was the richest, heartiest and most flavorful onion soup I have ever had.

And, of course, what’s not to like about the bouillabaisse I had one night, as well.

Quebec City, in every way, makes me feel like I am in France. The buildings, the people, the fashion, the language…and, now the food have all given me the “French fix” that I was looking for on this trip.

But….the food……ahhhhh……..

…….the food is the star. My tummy is full…..and happy..

I am writing this post, so I am happy to report that I did not succumb to the poison of the Christmas Pine Tree Ice Cream. I’m still here…..thinking about tonight’s food adventure, my last here in Canada. It will be hard to top what I have already done. But, I’m going to try.

Mmmmmmm……….

Posted in North America, Solo Travel for Women, Uncategorized | Leave a Comment »

Crabbing and Scrabbling Along…..

November 28, 2017

Did you ever play that ball game as a kid that resembles soccer, but has the players on the ground in the position of crabs?   Their hands and feet are on the ground, but, they face upwards instead of towards the ground….looking like crabs scuttling along the ground chasing after a ball.  When I was a grade schooler, the gym teachers used this game as one of their primary activities.   I guess they thought it would help us with our coordination.   I can’t say that it did much for mine. But,  today I was reminded of my days in the grade school gymnasium…..scuttling along the ground…. playing the crab game……..

Here’s why…

I have been in Quebec since Thursday…..wandering the streets….having adventures…..dodging the cold…..etc…..etc……etc…….

Yesterday, I decided I needed to round out my Quebec experience a bit and take a small jaunt outside of the city proper. I wanted to see Montmorency Falls, touted to be the highest waterfall in Quebec and higher than Niagra Falls. What would a trip to Quebec be without viewing this local wonder?!

So, I went to the trusty tourist information station here in Quebec and learned that this attraction was not too far ….about 20 minutes…… and was easily accessible by public bus #800. I could buy a round trip ticket at the tobacco shop around the corner for about $5.00 and have myself a real adventure! The young man at the information station said that this is a very “efficient” way to get to the falls. It’s literally “fool proof”. There is one clearly marked bus. You take it to the end of the line, get off, walk around the corner, walk to the falls and that’s about it.

Easy enough! I excel at utilizing public transportation. It’s one of my best travel traits! So, this will be a breeze!

In anticipation of my trek, I donned my very fashionable cold weather gear this morning that now includes a pair of “Croc” boots and was on my way.

I will stop here to tell you that my Born boots, while very functional in a light powdered snow, did not do the trick on Friday of last week when we had a blizzard, and I needed to walk in an inch or 2 of  snow and then the remaining slush. In reality, while they were warm and waterproof (I think), they were not enough when faced with the challenges of some “real” winter elements. I walked all around town in them and realized that I was going to ruin them if I wore them for the whole week…..and, my feet would probably be cold and wet all of the time I was here……and, I would probably get sick. So, on Friday, my first day out in Quebec, I wandered all around town looking for a pair of boots that were warm and definitely waterproof (not, I think waterproof) made out of rubber that I could wear in the elements and that were a “bon marche” (cheap). The best I could do was a pair of “Crocs”, which were on sale, had the requisite warm looking faux fur lining that one sees everywhere here, and a rubbery sole that grips the ice.

Here’s “la toute ensemble..”

I like them.

And, I was glad I had them today.

This morning I made my way to the bus and got on. It was right there waiting for me. No problem. I did notice, though, on my walk to the bus stop that this was probably going to be one cold day…..probably one of the coldest I have had so far, so maybe not the best day for viewing the falls. But, I was on my way.

Bonne chance….(good luck!)

I was happily riding along when the bus stopped at the terminus, which I thought was the end of the line. I got off the bus…had no idea where I was….and went into a nearby gas station to ask about how to get to the falls. He said,

“But, you must get on the #800 bus and go to the end of the line. The bus is right there at the stop.”

It was the one I just got off……

Oh boy…….

So, I went back to the bus and, “en français”, asked the driver if I could get back on. He was happy to let me do this, as he knew I had gotten off too quickly.

You’d think he would say something.  But, no…..

We all had a good laugh……all of us on the bus, I mean. It was full…..

There were 2 ladies that were sitting near me and one looked at me and said “en français”,

“Are you practicing your French?”

I of course said, “Pardon”, because I had no idea what she was asking me. My aging brain, the speed of the speech and the element of surprise is not a good combination for me, making my ability to comprehend impossible.

So, she repeated this in English. I said I was, indeed, practicing my French and we then had a good conversation in our best “Franglish”, which was just delightful. I learned her story and she learned mine. By the time we were done, I knew the stories of everyone on the bus.

Finally, we landed at the end of the bus line. The bus driver was now very helpful in letting me know that I needed to get off……. and pointed me in the direction of the falls.

“Merci”….

I walked a bit in the cold and still couldn’t see where the entrance to the falls was. So, I spied a small tourist snack bar…..

…..and went inside to get directions. The woman pointed the direction and, en francais, said that it was 2 minutes walking and that she didn’t know why people want to go there in the winter. There’s nothing to see and it’s too cold.

At least that’s what I think she said….I’m pretty sure……

Nevertheless, I headed out. It seems that the falls are really not open in the winter, so in order to view them, one needs to walk through the barrier saying “No entrance” in order to get in. It was easy.   I did it, along with about 6 other people.

No problem.

But, the road to get there was quite treacherous.

Even with the new “Croc” boots, I was slipping and sliding. And, it was darn cold. I fished my scarf out from under the top of my jacket and wrapped some of it around my face and nose to protect myself from getting frostbite. It was then I discovered that my nose had been running because of the cold and snot had dripped down my face and  had frozen there. I never felt it. Now it was melting on my scarf…

Oh well.

After awhile, I didn’t care. There was frozen snot on everyone’s face today….nobody cared……

I walked forward and down a few sets of stairs

into an open-air pavilion to view the falls. They were truly spectacular….and, somehow beautifully warming with the movement of the water as it descended to the depths below.

I got some pictures….

…..and stood there for as long as I could take the cold and ascended the stairs to go back. It was really worth the effort. I’m glad I saw it. And, I’m glad I didn’t freeze to death.

I walked along back to the entrance where I came in. I looked over to the right and saw that there was a ziplining course, which was, of course, closed now. But, there was an accessible path. Maybe I could get a better view from there. I was feeling pretty cocky and a little bit warm, so I began to make my way up the very tiny grade that led to the zipline. Someone had applied some sand for traction.

Great!

But, midway up the tiny grade, I began to slip and lowered myself to the ground so that I wouldn’t fall and hurt myself. As I did that, I realized I was trapped. I could stand up, which I did. But, I realized that if I could make it all the way up the grade, I most certainly would not make it back down. I might not be able to make it back down from where I was. So, I stood there, midway, and evaluated my options.

For some reason, as I was contemplating my dilemma, the crab game came back to me. I decided that I could get myself into the “crab” position and use the soles of my “Croc” boots like a sled and, with the help of my gloved hands, glide myself back to the bottom.

So, that’s what I did.

I slid myself to the bottom through the ice and traction sand in my fancy “shearling” jacket, matching hat, silk lined leather gloves and “Croc” boots…..

….a sight to behold……

But, I made it with my accoutrements in tact, with just a little bit of sand on my gloves and pants, which I was able to wipe off. No broken bones, twists or bruises.

Whew!

After all that excitement, I, of course, had to pee. And, I was cold. So, I decided to go back to the snack bar, use the facilities and get a hot chocolate. The woman who had given me directions recognized me….I was the only one there……both times.

She wondered how it was, to which I responded, “I saw it. I am done.”

“Très bien,” she said.

Très bien, indeed.

The last bit of this adventure came when I went down the 2 flights of stairs to use the “toilette” at the snack bar. I couldn’t find the light switch for the ladies room. I am fairly blind in the dark. But I had my trusty iPhone with me that had a flashlight on it.

Voila!

Or not.

The phone was too cold to activate the flashlight. So, I used the men’s room, whose light was shining brightly. It wasn’t as tidy as the ladies room.  Never is……

I didn’t care.

I am back at my hotel now writing this post and thinking about dinner. I am also sipping at a bottle of local wine I bought at the “Farmer’s Market” here yesterday. It’s gamay and some other grape that I am not familiar with.

It’s not bad……it’s not good, either.

But, it is wine.

Enough said……..

 

 

 

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I have been wondering…….

November 26, 2017

I have been wondering…….about wandering…….

What makes a person like me want to wander? I have wondered about this for quite some time, but have been wondering about it even more over the last few months. What my wandering mind has come up with is that I generate a lot of positive energy by wandering among things that are unfamiliar. I learn things about places, people and things….and myself…..in a way that is not possible when engaged in my regular day to day routine. I find interesting and sometimes crazy possibilities and often wonderful experiences like this impromptu Christmas concert……

….just by chance……when I am wandering. And, because of the challenges that sometimes arise while wandering and the need to make decisions, I always come home filled with a renewed sense of my capable self.

Or………I wonder if it’s just fun? Right…..there’s that……

I wonder what the answer is? I wonder if it really matters? I bet you are wondering if I could just get on with my story?! Ha!

Here are some things I have learned about Montreal in my week of wandering.

Places…..

In my time here, I have connected with the diversity of Montreal in the pockets of culture I have found here.

First, there is the “Vieux Port” (old port) area where I am staying. The architecture and the setting along the Saint Laurent River is a reflection of the rich history of the city. The river was the life-blood of the city at one time. The building of the hotel where I am staying was used as a warehouse for a leather goods company and was even a repository for the Canadian army at one time. The history is visible in the exposed brick and rough stone walls of the guest rooms. The hotel is beautiful and the area is lovely and central to everything one could want.

This part of town is also touristy. C’est la vie.

Having said that, I have found some parts of “Vieux Montreal” that are not as touristy, which I have enjoyed.   I have viewed lots of galleries of all types and upscale shops here.  And, some murals around town that I thought were quite well done!

I also popped into a hotel, as recommended by my friend, Christine, that has some pretty “cool” art. Great suggestion!

Then, there is Chinatown in the middle of the city, set apart by four arched pagoda-like structures on each side that give one the sense of a large square boundary around the elements of China town.

The colorful signs and Asian symbols identifying the shops and restaurants that mark the Chinese-Canadian culture are nestled together inside this makeshift boundary in a cacophony of color.

The Mile-End section of Montreal shows a Jewish presence through its people, food and shops. I was told that it was one of the “up and coming” areas for young professionals.  It was a cool area that exuded excitement.

When I visited “Little Italy”, I saw the red, green and white flags of the Italian culture.

The restaurants and grocery stores displayed the foods that made me think I may have been visiting a small town in Italy rather than a small section of Montreal.

Then, of course, there is the “grown up” business section of Montreal where things hustle and bustle.

McGill College and the other colleges and universities add an intellectual element and an air of the arts.

People…….

I met these young folks

who were working in a shop down the block from my hotel where I enjoyed a croissant and a latte one morning. I was the only one there. The owner and his engaging staff, drew me in with their stories. As I had my latte, we chatted on and I learned about their lives. I also learned that the owner’s daughter also writes a travel blog. I reached out to her and have now communicated with her on some ideas for things to do in Montreal and some places to eat. Fun!

I met these bundled up kiddos at the Christmas parade.  I missed the parade.  Montreal is not a well-oiled machine on these types of events.  And, it was a cold day.  But, it was still fun!

These folks were also there.  Not quite as bundled up.  I wanted to give them my coat!

This helpful and friendly shopkeeper

helped me to stay warm today when I was walking. It was one of the colder days here.  She gave me a thorough run-down of all the things she likes to do in Montreal. And, she sold me some over the knee socks,

another of my very questionable fashionable strategies for staying warm. She says I can wear these over my leggings or under my wider legged jeans. I have already tried them with my jeans.  Not so sure about my leggings….will keep you posted on that fashion statement. I am beginning to think, though, that I may need to increase my cache of warm socks when I get to Quebec. We’ll see.

Things…..

I visited the Museum of Modern Art and spent one whole afternoon learning about the poetry, music, and philosophy of Leonard Cohen,

a Montreal native, who was being remembered in a special exposition there. I was not that familiar with his life or his works……not sure how I missed that. Oh well! My time spent immersed in his art was a moving experience, which I will share with you in another post.

And, there is the food. I have had the local French cuisine, in which I am including some of the best chocolate croissants

I have ever had….including in France. But, I have also had Italian food, Canadian food and an absolutely outstanding meal in a Polish restaurant,

that also provided entertainment in the way of live, light piano music. It was delightful!

And of course there is the music. I attended a concert of Bach and Mozart at the “Place des Arts” that included a pre-concert treat of a mini organ concert…..always my favorite!

 

Myself……

I have summoned up the courage to practice my French while in Montreal, and I realize that I haven’t forgotten everything I have learned. The language has been sleeping in the depths of my brain. I have somewhat effortlessly pried much of what I have learned over the last few years out of my aging brain in order to communicate in French. And, I have gotten some compliments, much to my surprise. I’m still working on the comprehension part. The words come out of people’s mouths like flashes of lightening. It’s difficult to keep up. But, I’m getting some of it. I understand that I will get much more practice in Quebec City. They like it when people speak French…or try, as in my case. In Montreal, people like to practice their English.

I’m doing what I do best, engaging with people and learning. I’m not sure yet what I will do with this. But, I’m building some momentum towards….something.

So, to my question about wondering…….and wandering……

I don’t think the why matters, just the actual wandering part…..

So, I don’t think I am going to wonder about wandering anymore.

I’m just going to keep wandering…..and wandering……..and wandering………..

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400 Steps…..

November 24, 2017

Or, at least that’s what “Google” said when I looked it up last night. There are 400 steps leading straight up off of Montreal’s Peel Street to the Chalet at Mont Royal, Montreal’s most famous mountain and park.

I climbed all 400 of them. And….I lived to tell about it another day.

Wow!

There was a day of balmy weather….42 degrees Farenheit….on about the 3rd or 4th day into my Montreal adventure. It was the warmest day so far, so I decided that it would be a great day to do something outside. I could walk around and actually feel warm. So, I decided that a hike up to and through this old landmark would be a great idea!

The concierge at my hotel gave me several options for approaching the park. But, thrill seeker that I am, I decided I should climb the steps. So, I walked up a steep grade from the Metro station through the campus of McGill College to the first set of steps and began to climb.

I didn’t actually know how many steps there were when I started this little jaunt. If I had, I may not have done this in fear that I would hurt my back…or have a heart attack….or something worse. I did give it a first thought, but not a second!

And, off I went!

Partway up as I was huffing and puffing, I did question the wisdom of this climb, though. So, I stopped, took a break and asked someone to take this picture.  (Still wearing the infamous hat!)

I was partway there. I couldn’t turn back now. And, I was comforted by the fact that the whole way up, I could see the hospital that was just below the steps. What great placement for a healthcare facility. I figured that if I had a heart attack or my back finally gave out, it wouldn’t be far for me to go for help.

Onward.

It was well worth the effort. The views of the city at the top were spectacular. It was a fairly bright and sunny day, so I could see all around and down to the city with some clarity.

Beautiful!

The “chalet” at the top had a little gift shop as well as a small snack bar on the side of an information station that explained a bit of the history of Mont Royal. Circling the station walls were a series of pictures that reflected the history.

Then, I learned about the “Cross of Mont Royal” from the woman running the gift shop. She encouraged me to visit….quinze minutes (15 minutes walking). I was there, so I took this walk, too.

And, then I decided to continue to follow the road, which made a large circle around the “chalet” and ended back at the same place I started. It was a little treacherous as there was a bit of snow and ice.

But, I made it. I am giving a shout out here to Born for making some of the best walking boots I have ever had.   They have a great tread, are warm and waterproof….at least I think they are. At any rate, my feet were dry, warm and comfortable all day long.

When I got back to the starting point, I was pooped! So, I got a “chocolat chaud” (hot chocolate) and a “cookie” (cookie)

and joined this tired fellow on the Adirondak chairs that faced out to the spectacular view.

 

What a day!

C’est tout….that’s all folks. At least on the walking portion of the day. Later in the evenig, I took in the sounds of Bach and Mozart at the “Place des Arts”, a performance of the annual Montreal Bach Fesitval. I heard a clarinetist whose melodious strains gave me goosebumps.

My senses were on overload!

I will end this post on a fitness note. My new iPhone says that I walked 11 miles on this day and took a total of 25,000 steps.

Really?!

Maybe someone can weigh in on this. Are the exercise meters on these phones accurate?

I find it hard to believe that I walked this much. But, I do know this. Between the yoga lessons and practice I have been doing and the climb up these stairs, my glutes are in the best shape of my life. Whatever fat was there, is no longer. And, my buns are as tight as drums. So are my calves….which I am not liking quite as much…..3 days later and I am still having trouble pointing my toes. Oh well……

No pain, no gain. Right now, I would put my shapely legs up against anyone’s anywhere..anytime!

The best part is that I can now justify all of the chocolate croissants I have been eating since I have been here. Oh, and the cheese….and, the chocolate……and the baguettes…..the butter……cream sauces….tonight’s dinner…

Which is where I will leave you…..thinking about my next meal….

Bon appétit!

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“Who Dat?……”

November 19, 2017

“Who dat?”

Who, indeed…..

 

I hope I don’t offend anyone with my “slang”. I was so amused by my own strange and uncharacteristic look that I couldn’t resist asking the question, and the tone seemed appropriate. Honestly, I’m having a hard time recognizing myself on this trip…and, I know “who dat”! But, every time I see myself in a window or mirror, I am caught a little bit off guard and still wonder if I am looking at someone else. Maybe I am…..hmm…..a mystery…..

Most of the people who were aware that I was heading into this “arctic freeze” were aghast that I would expose myself to the short, cold days of northeastern Canada for some fun time away, when I could have gone somewhere that was warm and balmy. But, I really wanted some seasonal weather and the thought of possibly seeing some snow at the holiday seemed warm and comforting to me after my unsettling year. I learned years ago when I was frequenting Switzerland and Germany in the winter that cold is not as bad as one imagines if one is ready for it. The well-prepared traveler can stay quite warm, even in the coldest of climates if ready for them.

So, about a month before I set out, I began to make my plan. I purchased some warm wool sweaters and some layering turtlenecks, bought some boots and liberated my fur lined “shearling” jacket and gloves, that have protected me well from the elements in the past, from the scented bed of moth balls they were resting in for the last 10 years to get me ready for this chilling adventure.

I had a few glitches…always the case it seems……

For those of you who are unaware, the “shearling” jacket is made of suede and has a fur lining. Years ago when I was more into a mind set than I am today that everything I wore had to match exactly, I purchased some fur lined gloves of the same color suede as my jacket to wear along with it. If this combination won’t keep you warm, nothing will….and, it matches! I decided that in order to get rid of the “eau de mothball”, I decided I would need to get both the jacket and the gloves cleaned. They were both pretty stinky.

As I began to research how to get these pieces cleaned, I learned that a regular dry cleaning wouldn’t do the trick on these items. They needed to be sent to a dry cleaner that specializes in cleaning leather items. My local dry cleaner was happy to coordinate this with their contact in Los Angeles. So, about a month before I left for Montreal, I entrusted both pieces to my local dry cleaner.  I was assured that there would be plenty of time to get them to the leather cleaning service and back in time for my trip.

Great!

When I went back at the appointed time I found, much to my disappointment, that my jacket had come back, but not the gloves.   As it turns out, the driver of the delivery truck had the gloves with him, but forgot to leave them with the coat. When my local dry cleaner realized this, they called the leather cleaner and asked if they could overnight them, which seemed like a good plan that would still meet my time frame.

This, of course, did not happen.

So, I didn’t have my warm gloves to bring along. What I do have is a pair of very fine leather gloves that are lined with silk. They look nice. And, they are better than nothing, but not terribly warm. For 2 weeks in the cold, I wasn’t going to buy a new pair. I would just have to tough it out.

I also didn’t have a hat. I gave up all of my knitted winter hats a few years ago when I had a small moth issue and never replaced them. Why would I? I live in sunny California where the weather is fine all year long. Who needs a hat? For that matter, who can even find a hat to buy in sunny California?!

I couldn’t.

So, I came to Montreal without a hat.

This is a problem for maximizing body heat in cold weather, as most of the heat escapes through the head, accelerating the feeling of cold. So, on my first day out, I went up the street from my hotel and bought a touristy knit hat with a maple leaf on it. The maple leaf was understated….still there, though. But, the hat matched my coat somewhat and it was cheap……

……enough said.

Later in the day, though, as I was walking around Montreal and doing some shopping, I happened into the Canadian equivalent of Lord and Taylor. I thought I would just stop into the hat section and see what they had.   Right there before my very eyes was a suede hat in the same color of my jacket….and, it was lined with fur……just like my jacket.

I will digress here and say that I have been trying to improve my appearance over the last year and this hat was not doing much for me in the “fashionista” department. But, it matched my coat. When does that happen? So to make myself feel better, I sought the advice of 2 young French Canadian girls who were shopping in the hat section to see if they thought this hat was stylish.

They didn’t speak much English, but one of them had enough to say that she “loved the hat”…..and, it matched my coat!

“Right?!”, I said, “Isn’t that great?”

Still, I debated about this for awhile. Even on my way to the checkout to buy the hat, I engaged one of the clerks in the store about the fashion statement I would be making with the new hat.

He said, “It matches your coat. It will be fine. It’s very cold now. You need something to keep your head warm.”

Well……not exactly a rousing endorsement. But, I decided to forge ahead. So, not only do I have a new hat,

but so does a homeless man that I met on the street. He is now the proud owner of the knitted hat with the maple leaf on it. I’m not sure if he wanted it, but he has it. And, I feel good about having given it to him.

I can’t say I am in love with my new hat.  But, I can say that it’s the warmest hat I have ever had. My head is so warm, you could fry eggs on it. Well, maybe that’s a little extreme. But, the hat….along with it’s friend the “shearling” jacket….have kept me unbelievably warm in the last 2 days that I have been exploring Montreal. I have also attracted some attention with the hat. When I was on the Metro today,

a few people came up to me to compliment me on the hat. One of them said it made me look like I knew what I was doing. Hmmm……I wonder what that means? I’m taking it as a positive. Why not……

I’m guessing that I will be happy to have the hat when I get to Quebec, too. It is darn cold here and will be there, too. But, I am loving it! And, honestly, in these days of being too hot most of the time (you know what I am talking about) I am finding the cold to be a welcome relief.

I will update you on my actual “travel” adventures on the next post. But, I had to tell you about my new hat.

So, you say…..

”Who dat?”

I say…..

“Dat me”

…in my new hat….. and my “Shearling” jacket…..

….rockin’ Montreal …..

“Dat’s all for now….”

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I’ve Been Working on the Railroad…..

August 31, 2017

I’ve Been Working on the Railroad…..

Well……actually…..I’ve been sleeping……..in the railroad station…in Scranton, PA…during my recent trip to the east coast. I spent two splendid nights at the former Lackawanna Train Station, now the Radisson Hotel, getting a good night’s sleep and a history lesson about Scranton.

If you’ve been to Scranton, you know that it’s not the most “happening” place in the world.

In fact, I wouldn’t have come here except that I wanted to visit some people in the neighboring towns and this seemed like a central location. When I started out, I knew there wasn’t much there, but when I took a walk around town and did my usual interview of the locals for interesting sights to see, they all said,

“Have you been to the Radission? It’s the most interesting thing here. That’s pretty much it.”

They were right. But, after my few days, I would say that if this is your only claim to fame, it’s not too bad.  You could certainly do much worse!

During my days in Scranton, I learned that, years ago, it was a bustling coal and iron-producing center. The area had an abundance of iron ore and boasted the largest stores of anthracite coal in the world. Based on this, the Scranton family, for whom the town is named, saw the possibilities for the town through the refinement of iron ore. So, they used their resources to develop iron mills. The mills went on to produce iron rails that would then be used for the development of railroads. Rails had previously been imported from England, so this presented a perfect opportunity for the town to thrive. The ensuing rails allowed for the organization of railroads in the area that would carry coal to the eastern seaboard. Rail routes were, then, developed between New York and Scranton that led to the development of a rail system and transportation of coal throughout United States.

Scranton became a center for rail transportation and hosted a number of developing railroad companies. In the mid-1800’s, they combined to form the Delaware, Lackawanna and Western Railroad.

The first train station was a simple wood structure. But, as the economy flourished, a new train station was envisioned whose design reflected the financial success of the town. Ground was broken in 1906 and the structure was dedicated in 1908. Over the coarse of time, the coal industry was diminished due to the development of newer and more efficient fuels and, with that, rail service diminished, as well, leading to the demise of the train station and the town. The station came into disrepair until the 1980’s when it was renovated as a tourism attraction in hopes that it would draw people to the area.

Most of the features of the French Renaissance designed building are original and are, themselves, works of art beginning with the exterior. It is built of Indiana limestone with 6 columns across the front. Above the front door is an 8 foot bronze clock.

The main entrance that once led to the waiting area, but now leads to a lobby and a formal open-air restaurant, is made with Formosa, an Italian marble with a pink and yellow tinge.

The grand lobby, which is 2 stories high, is captivating with its mosaic tile floor and marble walls….

The fountain was originally outside, but was brought inside during the renovation to protect it from the elements.

As you look up, you can see a rounded, vaulted ceiling made with original Tiffany glass…..

And, there is a series of 36 tile murals that ring the walls of the lobby, whose pictures reflect the various stops of the trains.

Just fantastic!

I spent some time in the bar, which was a part of the old train platform. There, I found 2 original crystal chandeliers that were sparkly and beautiful.

The drinks were sparkly and beautiful, too!

I had been to the hotel years ago for dinner. But, I had not really paid attention to the detail and the history of the old station. I’m glad I took another look. The stay in this hotel was the most unexpected delight of my whole trip!

Even more than the building itself, though, I loved meeting the people who were actually “working on the railroad”….or, better, in the railroad station…..the Radisson Hotel. They were outstanding! On my first day there, I was walking through the lobby snapping pictures. Before too long, one of the waitresses in the formal dining room came over and offered to give me a tour of her favorite spots in the hotel. I took her up on it.

Then, when I went into the bar, the bartender walked over and offered the same thing. His favorites were different from the waitress. One of them was this “vault” which was where the proceeds of the station were kept safe.

I ate breakfast in the small café and encountered a waiter and his manager who were entertaining, and whose goal it was to be sure I had a good breakfast, good company and some good nut brittle, a side business for the waiter. I was blown away by their kindness and attention. And, I was impressed that the management team supported the efforts of the waiter in his business endeavor.

I can honestly say that I have ever encountered a group of staff members who were more welcoming. But, it was the pride in their work and in the workplace itself that was so very notable. Each person had his own perspective on the history of the structure and had found his place among the artifacts. It was evident that they felt like more than just employees and found themselves to be a part of the story of the old train station.

So, this is where I will leave you….thinking about the sounds of trains clacking along the tracks, visions of the grandeur of the building and the allure of the stories that unfolded there.

All aboard……….

 

 

 

 

 

 

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