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To Aix or not to Aix…..that is the question

January 30, 2013

I was up early again today so that I could make my way to Aix en Provence….really excited because this is the favorite of the French people I have met. It’s also the favorite of Alix, our revered house and cat sitter, who did a rotation there while in college. It comes highly recommended.

I was up and out early, 7:30 am, so that I could get my coffee and croissant before catching the bus at 8:40. It’s been awhile since did any kind of even minimally complicated public transportation in Europe on my own, so I left myself plenty of time in case I made a mistake. (I know it’s hard to believe, but even I have been known to err on occasion.) At about 8:00, I headed out.

I knew about where the bus station was, so I headed in that general direction and hoped for the best. When I got there, I had to locate the right stop for the bus I needed to take. Of course, I didn’t see the number that I needed. I asked a young guy at one of the stops to see if he knew anything. He didn’t. But, I have to say that he came to tell me after I walked away that he had asked some other people and then directed me to what he thought was the correct spot. Again, I have to say that I am bowled over by the kindness of strangers. This was a very kind gesture. But, still, I didn’t see the number that I needed. That’s whenI looked up and saw the office for the bus system. DUHHHH…..So, tail between my legs, I went in.

As is my custom now, I use the French greeting “bonjour” and then “Parlez vous Anglais”?. (Do you speak English?) This usually gets me a “Un petit per.” (a little bit). Not this time, the woman at the ticket counter broke into fluent english….with a southern accent, if you can believe THAT! I of course asked her where she was from. She is originally from Atlanta and has been living in Provence for 30 years. She met her, now, husband while working at a hotel in St. Remy, fell in love and got married. She has been here ever since….a true love story. You gotta love a great story! I think she (Alice) was very excited to talk to an American. So, we chatted on for awhile, my favorite thing. It was early..she wasn’t busy….what else is there to do?! I am making lots of friends on this trip! Fun times!

After Alice reviewed the schedule, we realized that the bus I was trying to meet only operates on the weekend and holidays. (I’m very disappointed in the nice young man at the front desk of my hotel…leading me astray….shame on him.) There was another bus leaving at 12:30, but I really didn’t think this would allow me enough time to look at the city. So, I decided to bag Aix for today and try for tomorrow instead. This will, again, be an early day, as the bus I REALLY need to take leaves at 7:30 am. But, I’m a trooper!!

So, I said to Alice, “Alice, I have clearly missed the Aix trip for today. What would you suggest I do for the day?”. She was all too happy to help me consider some options. I asked about Les Baux en Provence….there is no public transportation to Les Baux. I don’t know about you, but I’m not interested in renting a car and maneuvering through traffic by myself. As you can see, I am very independent, but I draw the line at this. There are just too many variables.

Then, I asked her about St. Remy. She was very taken with this idea. She lives in a small town near there and said that I really should visit her town. There is a nice bistrot there where I can eat. I should tell them that she sent me and they would take good care of me. After my issues with meals in Arles, this was very appealing. But, no public transportation. She and I decided together that this would probably be too complicated. I’ll have to catch this next time.

I landed on St. Remy. Alice’s station started to get busy, and I didn’t want to bother her, so I thanked her and started to go on my way. As I was leaving, she called out “Come back later. I want to tell you some places to visit in St Remy and Aix.”. Sounds good. Tips from a local. What luck!

The bus to St. Remy didn’t leave until 11:30 am. I was now 9:00 am. What am I going to do in Arles for the next 2.5 hours? I wasn’t looking forward to it. I like it here, but really it’s worth about a day and that’s it….it’s a small area and it’s off season…not much action as far as I can tell. So, I decided to go back to the hotel and reconnoiter a bit.

I really didn’t have time to go to a museum or another monument in Arles, and some of them were closed. But,there were some vistas in Arles that I missed on my first day here, so I decided that I would head to this area until the bus leaves. Maybe there would be a good picture taking opportunity. I headed out.

The vistas were near the train station. I have now been here about 3 days and am getting to know the town pretty well. I have been to the train station, so this would be a stress-free way to start the day. No map reading, no question asking and answering, no french to decipher…As I walked, I was thinking about all of my adventures, what I would do next, etc. Then, I looked up, and what did I find, but a market. I had heard about the markets in Provence, but hadn’t seen one. I made a detour and started looking at the goods for sale.

These markets sell everything….cheese, sausages, vegetables, candy, bread, pastries, clothing, spices, knives, guns, mattresses….yes, MATTRESSES! The sight of this was enough to send me into one of the those laughing jags…you know, I explained this in the blog I wrote when Mike and I drove cross-country to California….. where you can’t stop, can’t breath, and can’t remember why you are laughing! MATTRESSES…REALLY!!??

You will be glad to know that I did not buy a mattress. How would I get this home? But, I did buy more cheese (for a rainy day…in case I can’t find dinner again) and some olives with garlic. I love these (j t’aime….see, my french is getting better!). Mike and I have a great story of traveling in Germany and absolutely loading up on the garlic olives and pickled garlic. Mike’s daughter, Sarah, who was traveling with us came to our door to say that she could smell the garlic…and the bad gas it caused us…..out of our open window and into hers. YIKES! I really want to have some right now, but I don’t want to stink up my room. I could, though. There are benefits to traveling alone! But, for now, I will exercise control! For now!

You will also be interested to know that one of the vendors saw me taking pictures of all the fun stands and wanted to know if I wanted his picture. Someone would get a picture of the 2 of us, but I would need to kiss him on the cheek. I don’t think so….smart ass…..

Anyway, the whole market experience was a delightful surprise!

I did make it back to talk to talk further with Alice. She gave me some very good ideas about what to see and do in St. Remy and especially Aix.

I also made it to St. Remy, which I enjoyed. It is a very small town…smaller than Arles. I did a lot of walking and bought some very expensive chocolate that is just outstanding, YUMMY!!! I will enjoy it with my cheese, wine and garlic olives.

In the last hour I was there, I was taking some pictures of the town, and a French man (with very bad teeth, I have to say) approached and asked it I was French. I of course answered with my usual “Je parle un petit Francais.” (I only speak a little bit of French.) He said “Ahhhh, Americain”,,,and directed me to sone interesting things to look at and photograph. One more friend for the road!

Speaking of friends, I had an email from my wine tasting buddies in Paris. Their words, not mine, “We have single-handedly put a major dent in the wine consumption in Paris and have lived to tell about it.” They were on another wine tasting tour as they were writing the email….imagine! Fun times!

I am hoping for better food tonight. As I walked through town, I noticed that things were starting to get a little more lively. I guess things start to rock and roll on Wednesdays. We’ll see.

I haven’t tried the Rhone wine that I bought yesterday yet……might have to bring that one home, that is, if I feel like carrying it in my suitcase on the train. HMMMMM But, I can only drink so much, and I am still working on the Pinot from Paris. What can I say….So much wine, so little time.

So, I will leave you with this little french tidbit….Vive les vins et les amis….. (Long live wine and friends!….at least I think that’s what this means!) So long for now!

Adventures in Avignon

January 29, 2013

I am still thinking about my YUMMY and fun meal experience last night…..YUMMY, YUMMY, YUMMY…..

I was up early thibs morning…6:30 to be exact. After my YUMMY meal last night (one more time that I can say YUMMY!) and before I went to bed, I got my train and bus schedules out for review, so that I could decide on my plan of attack for today. The train schedule to Avingnon did not seem complete to me. There were only a few trains listed on the schedule that were leaving from Arles, when my tour book said there were trains about every half hour. But, I knew I could get a train for Avignon at 8:40 and also a bus to Aix en Provence at about the same time. So, I went to bed and decided that I would figure it out in the morning over coffee and a croissant. Again, YUMMY! (one more time for YUMMY….there I said it again. HA!)

It was an early morning, as I didn’t sleep well. I haven’t slept that well here in France. I never really get adjusted to the time change coming in this direction. At about 10:00 pm, I am so sleepy that I can’t keep my eyes open. So, I turn the light out and close my eyes. At 2:30 I am usually still awake. YiKES! I need to go home soon so that I can get a good night’s sleep. Oh well.

As Mike and I have traveled quite a bit, we are pretty good at understanding how to maximize the expertise of the people at the hotel and their knowledge of the area. So, this morning, I sought out the aid of the nice young man at the front desk, who now knows me well because I have so many flipping questions….very nice guy. Anyway, after some review, he and I decided that I could go to the train station and be fairly confident that I would get a train to Avignon in a very short amount of time, no matter what. Thus, my plan for the day.

Avignon is a bigger than Arles, but still pretty small as compared to places like Paris So, getting around was a cinch. I stopped at the very helpful Tourist Information Center when I got off the train, and picked up a map of the city and some touring tips. I was given a pass that would allow me to get a discount on museums after the first one visited, which was very exciting and in keeping with the “getting the best deal” philosophy. I was very happy.

Avignon is a very old “walled” city. Amazingly enough, the whole wall around the city is in tact. I have been to a lot of these old cities, but have never encountered one that has the ancient wall still surrounding the place…at least, I don’t remember it. I spent a fair amount of time wandering the old maze-like streets. The weather was absolutely phenomenal today, so I could spend a lot of time outside walking and enjoying the sunshine.

My first monument visit was to the Saint-Benezet Bridge because it was one of the cheaper sites that I wanted to see. I figured I would go for the discounted rate on one of the heavier hitters. Turned out to be a good plan.

The bridge was built during the 12th century, destroyed and rebuilt in the early 1200s. It was the first link between Rome and France across the Rhone River. I use the term “link” lightly. I learned today that Avignon was the center of the Roman Papacy…so, this is really the link…not so much geographically. Although, geography did play a part at that time. But, more about that later. The building of the bridge was spearheaded by Saint Benezet, who told everyone that God came down and instructed him to build a bridge here. Most people thought he was “touched”..you know….”nuts”. He probably was, but as it turns out, he was able to raise enough money to make this happen. The bridge became a major route for trade and pilgrims and helped France to gain a stronghold. What I do know is that the view from the bridge is one of the most beautiful scenes I have viewed on the trip. The tour book said this is the most moving sight in Avignon. I am inclined to agree.

The view of the Rhone from the bridge includes a path on either side that is lined with trees. The backdrop to this is the city of Avignon. Just gorgeous. Check out the pictures on my Facebook page.

My next stop was at a patissier (bakery) for a bite to eat. I had some kind of puff pastry sandwich that was filled with….you guessed it….cheese. I also had a pain raisin, which is my favorite of all the French pastry desserts. YUMMY! This tasty meal was under 5 Euros.

I also visited the Palais de Papes….quite an impressive structure. You all probably know this…I wasn’t paying attention in world history class, but, at one point, there were 2 centers for the church, Rome and Avignon. There were a total of 6 Popes who ran the church from here over time. So, here’s the “link” to Rome I talked about above. Avignon and Rome were connected through the church and the papacy. Later on, the church created one center in Rome. But, not until this vast palace was built on the backs of the towns people. As I listened to the audio guide, I was struck by the influence and power of the church at this time. Maybe it’s still like that…I’m not involved too much in religion. But, I doubt it is anything like this. This was really a big business enterprise. The Palais employed hundreds of people to do the tasks in the building and to count and protect all of the money that was collected for the church. Of course, only CERTAIN people could have access to the money and they had it hidden away. Sounds like my last job.

I have to say that about halfway through the tour, I was ready to leave, thinking about the power of man over man in those days through the church. What happened to benevolence and piety? But, then, as I continued on, I also realized that major the church had a large part to play in the development of at least art and music. That made me feel a little bit better. It’s kind of like having a war. We don’t like it, but look at the advancements it brings….kind of a double edged sword. Anyway, the building was interesting and the story even more so.

The Palais is surrounded by a park, which is free to enter. This was outstanding. The views from there were incredible and the fountains, alcoves, ponds and seating invited you to linger. I took a seat at the pond among the ducks and pigeons and contemplated life for a good long time.

At about 4:30, I headed back to the train station to come back to the hotel. I almost made it without buying something, but alas, I got side-tracked…..by a wine store. Hard to believe! This area is the center of the Rhone wine region. The grapes are the same varietal as those we grow and make into wine where we live in California. I really wanted a bottle of a good Rhone blend to drink in my room on my last days here. So, I made this purchase. I will be critiquing it in my next blog post.

My last thought for today is this. One of the downsides to traveling in touristy areas in the off season is definitely the lack of open restaurants. I went out again tonight, only to find that the recommended (actually almost all) of the restaurants were closed. AGAIN. I went to 3 places before I decided to to back to one of those cafes I passed yesterday. My YUMMY restaurant was also closed. I had the equivalent of a pizza (4 different types of cheese) and came back to my room.

I did, however, have a meeting of the minds with one small customer of the restaurant. There was one other couple there with me, who had a 2 year old little boy. He was really cute…and, he really liked me. (I seem to have this effect on little kids.) He joined me at my table and we chatted together…me in English and he in French and we were both very happy. His father spoke some English and did some translation. As it turns out, he was hoping for a “bon bon”. Sadly, I had to disappoint. He was OK with this and as I was getting ready to leave he extended his hand and we shook on it. The perfect ending to a perfect day.

Ahhh…..Arrrrles

January 28, 2013

Don’t you find that the most remarkable things happen when you least expect them? I had an incredible dinner experience this evening that I really wasn’t expecting. It makes me appreciate the kindness of strangers.

As it turns out, Monday is not a good night for eating out in Arles, either. As is my custom when traveling alone, I stopped this morning at the Tourist Information Center to get the lay of the land here in Arles. My plan was to explore Arles today and then branch out in the next days to look at the other towns in Provence. So, I gathered all of my information from the very helpful woman a the Tourist Information Center. She was really great….spent a lot of time with me to review all of the points of interest in the area, transportation options, etc. My last question for her was about where to eat while here in town. She gave me some ideas and marked them on my trusty map. This is great. Maybe tonight I will have a good meal.

So, when I got ready to go to dinner this evening, I got out my map and decided where I would go. One of the streets had 2 recommended restaurants. So, I decided to give this a whirl. If one was closed, the other would surely be open. I headed out. I got to the one restaurant and then the other. Both were closed. So, I headed in the direction of another recommendation that was close to where I ate last night. Closed. What is it with the people in Arles? Really…..do they not eat?! I was close to the Jules Cesar Hotel, where I had originally planned to stay and whose restaurant got very good reviews in my Frommer guide book. So, I thought, their restaurant must be open. They are a hotel with guests that need to eat. Nope. Closed. In frustration, I asked the woman at the desk whether there was anything open anywhere. She directed me to a place called E’Crin. It was near my hotel….YAY!

I started of in the direction of the restaurant. I walked a little further than I thought I should and passed 2 cafes on the way and considered just going there. But, I really wanted a little more, as I had my usual baguette and cheese today and little else. Finally, I looked ahead of me and saw some lights at a doorway and decided this must be the place. When I went in, there were 2 tables of people already there…..a good sign for decent food…….people!

I must look and act like I am French because a lot of people try to communicate with me via French, which as we discussed, doesn’t really get anyone anywhere at all. But, in this restaurant, the waitress only spoke French…not English. So, once we established that I didn’t know much French, we were off and running. Then, a very nice couple at the next table asked if I needed help. Actually, I could understand the menu, but not much else. When they start to talk fast, I start to get lost. So, I accepted the couple’s gracious offer of help. They had limited English, but directed me into a really wonderful meal, and we all had a good time and a couple of laughs on the way. The menu was on a large chalkboard that was brought to each table when it was time to order. The woman of the couple actually sat next to me and explained what each menu item was. So very nice.

As I was waiting for my order to come, the place began to fill it’s 6 tables, and I watched the waitress as she interacted with the patrons. There was a French family, 3 sets of couples including the one that had helped me, a Spanish family that also didn’t know any French and me. The waitress went out of her way to help the Spanish family understand the menu. They were trying to understand the word “tarte”, which I think is universal in any language. But, OK, maybe not. In an effort to help, the waitress got her iPhone and looked for a translation on the internet so they would understand. I’ve never seen anyone go to this length to provide excellent customer service. Ritz Carlton stand back! Her interactions with the French family were equally as outstanding. I felt as if I were in my own home town having a casual dinner. How fortunate that I stumbled into this terrific place. The waitress knew all of the people except for me and the Spanish family. I realized that this was kind of a neighborhood place, and I was one of the neighbors. Love it!

When I first visited France I was told that the people were rude and didn’t like Americans. I have never had this experience and certainly didn’t have it here. I think people treat you as you treat them. What is the saying?…you get what you give…something like that. Anyway, I think if you are nice to people, they will be nice back…even the French.

For $20.50 Euro I had a grilled eggplant and Chevre cheese salad that was to die for. My main course was a poached chicken breast which would have been somewhat nondescript had it not been for the sauce of butter (of course) and Provencal spices. The vegetables were the star of the show….carrots, zucchini and tomatoes in a butter thyyme sauce. When it came time to order the dessert, I asked the waitress what she preferred. She asked if I liked chocolate, and so the decision was made. I had a most delicious warm chocolate lava cake with a mint chantilly cream. how many times can I say YUMMY before I get home? YUMMY! I would have never chosen this if she hadn’t suggested it. I left there fat and happy, just like after the meal at Benoit. Incredible.

The earlier part of my day was also pretty amazing. The woman at the Tourist Information Center convinced me to purchase a pass that would get me into 5 hot spots here in Arles. I made to 4. But, the pass is good for a month. I may make one more before I leave.

The most memorable of the places I visited was Les Alyscamps. These are the ruins of a Roman, and later Christian, cemetery. It is also one of the places that Van Gogh found inspirational and memorialized it in some of his work. It was very peaceful and lovely, even in the winter.

I also visited 2 arenas that originated in Roman times. Both are being renovated at this time. The largest arena is still used for bullfighting in the spring and summer months. The other is really more of a ruin and is no longer used. In it’s day, it was not used for bullfighting, but for things like circuses and lighter activities. I found both of these sights to be very interesting and enlightening. I didn’t realize the influence of the Romans on this area, although it does make sense. There are lots of examples of this all throughout the town. Before I leave, I hope to visit the museum here in town that explains more about the history and early influencers. I also visited the catacombs underneath the town hall, which I wasn’t as crazy about. It was dark and I found it difficult to walk between my vision issues and my back issues. I also had a fleeting thought about getting lost in the maze and never being found. How silly…but, it was just a fleeting thought…….

Tomorrow I plan to venture out to Avignon or Aix en Provence. Depends on how early I can get up. The weather is supposed to be really good through the end of the week. I felt like I was in a heat wave today after coming from Paris. I think it was about 50 degrees here. The temperatures are supposed to increase again in the next few days. I see lots of walking in my immediate future….YIPPEE!!

Hello Provence…..

January 28, 2013

Yesterday, I boarded the TGV train at Gare de Lyon and headed to Arles in Provence. The French pronounce the “r” in Arles unlike us Americans…I’m really having a hard time pronouncing this in a French sort of way…and the French are having a hard time understanding me.

When I got my ticket for the TGV, I decided that I would try for first class passage. However, the price was really just too much…you know, the deal is important. The first class ticket was about $100 more. As when considering the warm boots, I just couldn’t justify the extra money. When I got to the train station yesterday, I checked the price again…maybe there was a special deal. Nope, same price. So, I decided on second class. How bad could it be? As it turns out, it was pretty darn good.

I have ridden trains in Europe for at least 10 years as we have traveled through and have even been in the lead in the last years on deciphering the tickets, etc. However, as with speaking French, when you don’t use it you lose it and somehow when you are alone, things are different. My expertise got me to the right seat, but the wrong compartment….UGHHH. I had my luggage in the rack, my coat off and began making friends with my seat mate and was having a great time! Then, the man who was really supposed to be in my seat approached me and, asked me to move. My seat mate spoke English, so I handed her my ticket so that she could help me understand all of this. She confirmed that I was in the wrong compartment. My seat was 2 sections back. OK…no big deal. She handed me my ticket and I gathered up my things and moved on.

When I got to the right place, someone was in my seat…go figure! It was a man who was traveling with his wife and baby. Cute baby, by the way. It really loved me…..staring and laughing as I talked to it. Cute. Anyway, the man spoke English and said that he would move. The train wasn’t crowded, so I said I would be happy to go to an empty seat so that he and his family would be more comfortable. There were lots of empty seats. He was grateful. I was grateful, too. It was one of those seats that has 2 seats facing each other with a table in between. I hate those seats. There is never enough room for my legs and my luggage. So, when the train began to move, I did, too.

The TGV is the fast way to travel by train in Europe. The scheduled time for the trip was about 3 and 1/2 hours from Paris, which is at the top of France to Arles, which is at the bottom…pretty remarkable. I was looking out the window and enjoying myself when I realized that the conductor would be around soon to look at my ticket. So, I got my ticket out in preparation for the review. As I looked at my ticket, I was taken aback. This was not my ticket. Oh no! What was I going to do, and where was my ticket?! I was sure that someone had exchanged it with mine as I was moving to my new compartment. Horrible person! Then, I thought, why would someone do that? That makes no sense. Maybe I had somehow picked up the ticket of the family with the baby. Nope!

So, now I’m starting to panic a little. The conductor is coming….how will I explain this? Maybe I will have to buy another ticket….geez… I have to say that my experience at my last job really helped me to stay calm and think this through. Each day, there was some kind of crisis to deal with…really, much worse than this one…and I managed to solve each problem as it came fairy effectively. So, I thought about the ticket situation and decided that I had picked up the ticket of the woman in the first compartment. I looked at the ticket. It was for the first compartment and what would have been her seat. So, I decided I would go back and ask her about this. She was sleeping, and I hated to wake her. But I really needed to get my ticket back. So, I tapped her on the foot. She looked up and said, “You’re back.” “Yes”, I said. “I think we have mixed up our tickets.” When we looked we realized that there had been a mixup. We were both relieved to have our tickets back, and I spent the next 30 minutes or so berating myself for not paying closer attention. I could be one of those people of ancient times who, in order to be better people, flogged themselves with chains and as a result were made saints. HMMM sainthood…no, not in the cards for me. After sufficient self-punishment, I got into the train ride and had a wonderful time.

I disembarked the train, got a taxi and arrived at my hotel at about 4:00. The hotel is very cute. Certainly not as upscale as the one in Paris, but it is about one third of the price. I have to say, though, that it’s not bad. It’s done in the provencal style it seems to be very clean…very important. I think the bathroom is better than the one in Paris. My room looks out onto an interior courtyard that is really pretty, even in the winter. I decide that I can be very happy here for the next 5 nights.

My last comment on this day is that I arrived here on a Sunday without having had much to eat….just a baguette and some cheese. So, I was a little hungry. Does no one in Arles eat on Sunday?! There were very few reataurants open. Even those recommended by the hotel were not open. I walked from place to place only to be disappointed. I ended up near the Tourist Information center at a small bistrot. There were about 5 people in there besides me. It’s hard to believe that in all of Arles, there were only 5 people that needed to have a decent dinner. In the end, it wasn’t bad. I’m grateful for that, too.

Goodbye Paris

January 27, 2013

My last day in Paris was saved for my “splurge” meal of the trip. I made a reservation at Benoit, an Alain Ducasse bistrot near the Louvre. I wanted to have a really good meal by a famous French chef but didn’t want to break the bank. My friend Linda, who lived in Paris for 2 years, recommended this busy little bistrot. My hat’s off to her!

As some of you know, I like to cook and have fancied myself to be somewhat of an expert on French cooking. Well, at least knowledgeable. A number of years ago, I started to make my way through Julia Child’s “Mastering the Art of French Cooking” cookbook like the woman who wrote Julie and Julia. I didn’t get nearly as far through the book as Julie did. But, I did make an effort and learned many of the basic French techniques that are used in almost every type of cooking. I also learned the names for a lot of the French foods, which I have to say, has helped me immensely with the menus in France. Very few surprises so far, for which I am grateful.

Anyway, the meal at Benoit was spectacular. We started with a small plate of pate choix (small puff pastries) as a teaser while I was deciding on my meal. I opted for the price fixed lunch menu because it is the best deal….very important… But, it’s also the best way to get a taste of a variety of menu items. For the appetizer, I chose the lentil soup with fois gras and creme fraiche. I love fois gras, even though I also know how this is obtained. There are varying schools of thought on whether the force feeding of fowl is humane or not. I choose to think they like overeating like most Americans do, and so, are OK with this. It helps me to justify this small pleasure.

My main course was a beef pot roast of a type that was melt in your mouth tender. For dessert, I had a savarain, pieces of pound cake that were absolutely drenched in Armengac and whipped cream. The waiter was steering me away from this dessert. I assume he thought I could not eat such a large portion or handle the Armengac. He doesn’t know me. I may be small, but I can be a pretty hearty eater. Mike tells me this all the time when I say I can’t eat the volume of some meal or another. “I know you.”, he says. Humph! He’s usually right..but not in this case. I could only get about 1/2 way through before I thought my stomach would burst open and they would have to take me to the French hospital. To top it off, about mid-way through the dessert, the waiter brought me some small samples of cookies to try, as is often done at the end of a fancy meal …a Madeleine, chocolates and some other type of cookie that I couldn’t identify. I took a small bite of each so as not to offend. But, really who can eat all of that?!

I also decided that I would splurge and have a very nice glass of wine and so opted for a Pessac Leognan from Bordeaux. This was the perfect match for the beef dish that I had. It also impressed the sommelier and the waiter. It was not, however, the best deal. Oh well, you only go around once!

The bistro itself was very cute and not pretentious, as some up scale restaurants can be. Don’t get me wrong, the service was very nice and very formal. But, the atmosphere allowed you to relax and enjoy the meal. The seats were also very tight. I was sitting almost in the lap of a man who was part of a young couple. Very friendly. They also chose the price fixed luncheon menu. When their food came out, they took a photo of each course. So, I did the same thing with mine…..fun times! We had a nice discussion about the beautiful presentation of the food. The main course for the man was a sausage pudding that had julienned apple strips piled decoratively on the top. it was a work of art…..really. These French love a nice presentation.

All in all, the meal was just spectacular…and filling. I went out happy and fat, deciding that more than anything I needed to go to bathroom and then to walk.

I finished my day walking through the Latin quarter, which is where all of the universities are. As you might guess, the atmosphere is pretty lively here with all of the students hanging around. I admired the Pantheon, Sorbonne, and the Jardin du Luxembourg as I strolled along. I had visited these places on previous visits in the spring and summer seasons. It was quite a different picture doing this in the winter. The Jardin (garden) was particularly different without the greenery that makes it a lush garden. There is a pond in the middle of the garden where young children sail toy boats in the summertime. There were no boats now, only birds skimming across the top of the pond hoping for some bread crumbs from the children that were playing near the pond. This is such a peaceful place even in the winter. If it were even a little warmer I would have spent some more time here with a book or my journal. A great place for quiet thoughts.

Tomorrow I leave for Arles in the Provence area. I’m looking forward to a smaller town and exploring some new territory…… But, I’ll always have Paris and will look forward to my next visit.

Walking, walking walking, eating, walking, walking, walking…

January 26, 2013

I have walked about 100 miles in the last 2 days here in Paris…in the freezing cold. I’m loving it, but I think I should get some kind of a hardship medal. Yesterday was by far the coldest day I had here….just brutal. I don’t know what the temperature was, but the wind chill off of the Seine made it feel like about 30 below 0. It makes me remember one of the reasons we left the east coast. It’s warm and sunny in California! If we ever go back to the east coast, I’m not sure I will be able to acclimate again.

Anyway, yesterday I decided that I would walk to the Gare de Lyon to get my train ticket to Arles. This is not something that I had prearranged, and I have spent some time over the last few days wondering whether I should get a ticket now or just show up at the train station on Sunday. Then, I realized that I didn’t know the times of the trains. So, off I went.

I do know some French, but I didn’t brush up before I left for the trip, which in this case proved to be a mistake. I sometimes try brush up a bit because it’s helpful to be able to communicate some basic words like ticket, days of the week, numbers, etc. Actually, I know all of these things even without a tutorial, but under pressure how can one remember! After 2 stops at the wrong place for ticket purchase, I met an elderly man from the UK in line. He was traveling alone and trying to get to Montreaux (I think…can’t understand the British version of english either, as it turns out.) He was on holiday and thought I might be able to help him with his ticket purchase….blind leading the blind. But, between the 2 of us, we both managed to get our tickets. I think mine is for the right days and locations. The ticket sales person had very limited English, and we just discussed my expertise with French. Finally, he got a pad of paper out and I wrote down what I needed. Even with that, he still almost issued me a ticket coming back from the wrong location. He was very nice and we had a good laugh about it. With the numbers of Americans traveling to Europe, I am always amazed at the lack of English speaking ticket sales people. Some of them aren’t very nice, either. But, this guy was great!

After I got my ticket, I went back out into the sub-zero weather to do some walking. Actually, my plan was to go to the Picasso Museum. Because, even for me, fun seeker that I am, I really couldn’t see how freezing to death would enhance my experience of Paris. So, I started out in the direction of the museum. It’s one of my favorites in Paris, and I was looking forward to visiting again.

On my way, I passed the Bastille monument…very impressive. This is the site where, in 1789, a mob of people attacked the Bastille and sparked the French revolution. The revolt is a symbol for change for the French and the monument is a visible testament to this.

The Place de Vosges was on the way, so I decided to stop in there to take a look. This site was the location of a future home for King Henry IV. Sadly he was assassinated and his wife had the home torn down. It is a square of connected red brick houses. The “Place” now houses a series of cafes and trendy artist studios. I took a picture of a painting that I saw there. It appeared to be a depiction of the French vision of the United States. It included the Golden Arches, Route 66, a drive-in sign, Burger King, Dunkin’ Donuts and a variety of other American icons. An Anerican ossis in the middle of Paris.

Now, my feet were really getting cold and numb. So, I decided I’d better move on and get involved in an inside activity. So, I forged on to the Picasso Museum only to find that it is under renovation and was closed. How disappointing for me and my cold feet!

The Picasso Museum is located in the Marais district. This area is an interesting mix of old architecture and new capitalism, but done in a very nice way. The buildings here are very old and the streets are narrow and maze-like. Were it warm, one could spend days wondering around on the cobblestone streets, exploring the area. It’s filled with cafes and small, very fashionable clothing stores, and unique boutiques. I decided in the short term to step into some of the stores so that I could warm my feet and plan my next move.

I decided to move on to Rue de Rossiers, the Jewish section of the city. I remembered a small falafel stand called La Du Falafel that Mike and I had visited a number of years ago. I could get lunch there and again, warm my feet. This was not an original idea, as there was a line out the door. I guess everyone’s feet were cold. So, I opted to step into one of the Delis instead and have a pastry…..much better than the falafel. It was late afternoon on Friday and as I was finishing up my lemon tart, 2 young Jewish men came in to sing Shabat Shalom with the staff and patrons. Time to move on, as I really can’t add anything to the mix on this one.

I made my way back to the hotel and did some window shopping and stepped into some of the more interesting shops as I went. I viewed a wide array of goods in all different styles. That’s one of the things I love about Paris. It’s so eclectic. If you can’t find it Paris, it’s not available.

You gotta love Paris!

Goat cheese and wine…..

January 25, 2013

Today was the day for touring the Loire area, specifically Sancere and Pouilly Fume (not Fuisse as I said on my face book page….OOPS!) We also visited a winery at the very top of Burgandy. What a fun…and long…day!

I met Jean Bernard (JB), tour guide, and 4 fellow wine tasters from Boston at the appointed location this morning at 7:15 am. I was up at 5:45 am getting ready for this little venture. Am I on vacation or getting ready for work!? I’m a pretty early riser, but this is early, even for me, particularly when I am on vacation!

I have to say that I had some trepidation about taking this tour. First of all, it was expensive, which goes against the rule of getting the best “deal”. I contemplated this over the last 2 weeks or so and finally decided that I would make the investment. I may never get a chance to do this again…you never know. However, when I got up this morning, I was still deciding. I found this tour on the internet. It got good reviews on Trip Advisor, which is one of my main websites for travel information. But, still….I wondered, who was this Jean Bernard. For all I knew, he was some kind of serial killer. I realize that this is very irrational, but when traveling alone, I become hyper vigilant. Thus, I wondered if this is a good idea….getting into a car with a man that I didn’t know who would take me away from Paris for the day to a place I don’t know. What if something happened to me? How would anyone know where I was? But, I forged ahead and decided that this would either be the worst day or my life of the best. As I climbed into the van, I was relieved that there were 3 other people coming too, and they were all women. I found comfort in that. I’m glad I took that chance. I would count this as one of the highlights of the trip. What a great time! (By the way, as I got to know the women from Boston, one of them pulled me aside and said that she had also given the serial killer issue some thought. This made me feel better about things. I think we all watch too many Law and Order SVU shows!!

JB was a delight. I guess because I was alone, JB asked if I would like to sit in the front of the van with him. This is the best spot, so, of course, I said yes. His warning was that if I was in the front, I would not be able to sleep on the 1+ hour drive out of Paris to the wine area. I would have to talk to him. For those of you that know me, this is the best of all worlds. I love to chat!

I learned about JB’s family, children and wife and how he came to be doing wine tours. I also learned about how difficult it is to run a business such as this one. JB shared some information about his business struggles as well as some personal struggles. It makes you realize that people are the same everywhere. Everyone has ups and downs in life. I was impressed with JB’s resilience and ability to adjust.

JB learned about my interest in wine and my work at Adelaida Cellars in Paso. We talked a lot about wine and how the wine industry differs in France from the United States. The French have a very negative impression of the industry in the United States. There are so many rules in France about how the grapes need to grow, which grapes can be used in wines that are labeled by area, the rules around manipulating the juice to get the desired flavor, and the marketing of wines. There are many differences, which doesn’t make either way bad….just different…in my opinion. Anyway, I found this banter very interesting and entertaining. I also really enjoyed getting to know JB. As you may know, I have a real interest in people and getting to know them. He has a great story.

First, we visited a goat farm in Chavignol where they were actually making cheese in a very small, family run processing area. The cheeses from this area are in the top 3 that are well-known and respected. Here’s a fun fact for you…there are over 400 cheeses in France. I’m amazed that they can get so many different iterations of what is essentially the same process. Remarkable!.

As in the wine industry, the cheese industry in France also has a lot of regulation. In order to say that the cheese is a Chavignol, the people who make it must follow every rule. If they do this, they are given a stamp of approval from the government saying that they can use the name. Otherwise, the cheese is just goat cheese. We spent a lot of time here looking at the small operation and tasting the cheese. We also met the goats that contributed the milk so that we could have the yummy cheese! The cheese tasting was a real hardship for the 4 of us who were tasting. None of us likes cheese. HA HA! We all, of course bought some. I’m hoping I will be able to get it home in my suitcase. We’ll see.

We stopped at 2 wineries and the Sancerre Museum, where we learned about the wine region, the soils, the grapes, etc. About 70% of the wines in the area are Sauvignon Blanc and the rest is Pinot Noir. We tried some of each. At each winery, JB let them know that I work in a tasting room in California. Of course, that garnered some extra attention, which was fun. At the second winery, we did barrel tasting of every 2012 wine they had, which was also a lot of fun. (I say barrel tasting, but most of the wine was in stainless steel. So, we were really tasting from the stainless containers. Still fun!) The wine maker was interested in what kinds of wine were made where I work. We talked about this as we went. This winery was actually, technically, in the Burgandy area, although it right next to Sancerre. We had some very nice Pinots there….light and spicy. We also had a very nice pinot rose. The wine maker wanted to know if we make rose in California. So funny!!

Of course all 4 of us bought wine. I have 2 bottles…the Boston ladies had a lot more. I am hoping to bring at least one of the bottles back in my suitcase. We’ll see on that one, too.

Here’s where the rubber hits the road in terms of connections. As we were driving through Sancerre, JB saw the mayor of the town, whom he knows. He pulled over to introduce me to the mayor, since I have experience in the wine industry. The mayor was happy to meet me. How’s that for meeting and greeting in France?!

Anyway, around 5:00 pm we started to head back. What a fun day! If anyone is in Paris and wants to do some tasting, I would highly recommend this tour. Let me know if you want the contact information.

So, I made it back to my hotel at about 7:30 pm unscathed. In addition to having some yummy cheese and wine to bring home, I now have a new friend in France and 3 new friends in Boston. I love it!

Walking…..and Paris

January 23, 2013

There is an up side and a down side to visiting Paris in January. The down side is it’s just plain cold and sometimes drizzly and dark. The upside is that there are no crowds and you can walk, look, eat and drink unencumbered by a bunch of tourists who don’t know what they are doing. I had the most amazing day.

first, let me say that the Frye boots that I purchased last year at Christmas are not warm or waterproof. I gave them the test yesterday. They didn’t pass. As much as I love them, I considered buying a new pair today that are rubber on the top and bottom are fur lined so that I could keep my feet dry and warm while I am here in France. I looked in every shoe store in Paris (and believe me there are many) and decided that since I live in the central coast of California where it doesn’t typically snow, I would not be able to amortize the cost of the boots….you know, it’d the deal thing again. Also, I did a purchase like this once before when I visited Zermatt, Switzerland. $350.00 later, I had the warmest and most waterproof boots that money could buy. I still have the boots, at home of course, I just couldn’t justify another pair. So, I started our this morning with my bright white gym shoes. I wore 2 pairs of socks with them and can happily report that while I was spotted as an American tourist and a geek, my feet were dry and warm all day and did not feel like ice cubes like they did yesterday at this time. I am grateful.

I got a bit of a late start this morning…woke up at about 8:30. My cocoon room at the top of this hotel is so cozy, I had a very hard time waking up. By the time I was up and moving, had breakfast, etc. if twas about 10:45. Way too late for a full day in Paris. But, I’m not on a schedule this time, so I just relaxed into the day at a leisurely pace.

I walked all over Paris. I did some window shopping for the above mentioned boots and whatever else was available as I walked along the Rue de Rivoli, the main drag in Paris. This is where the Louvre, the Tuilleries, garden, and the L’Orangerie museum are located. The streets are lined with stores, cafes, restaurants and museums. Lots to do and see here. I passed by, but did not stop in Angelina’s Cafe, where they have the best hot chocolate and pastries in Paris. I wasn’t hungry and didn’t want to spend the time, but it was tempting to say the least. I did manage to have a chocolate crepe as I walked along….so good.

Anyway, my main goal was to get to the L’Orangerie Museum and spend some time with Monet and his water lilies. So, I headed in that general direction. I wasn’t sorry. This is my absolute favorite museum in Paris. There are 2 rooms that are dedicated to life-size Monet paintings, in the round, depicting the water lilies that you see when you visit Monet’s home in Giverny. These are my very favorite paintings. When you see them in this way, it’s like you are at Giverny communing with nature. This is my second time here. My first visit was with Mike right after we had seen Giverny. I will always remeber this when I sit in the L’Orangerie and view these works. There are 2 rooms that are set up in this way with the lilies in the round. I spent a lot of time moving from room to room just looking at them. They are spectacular and very moving. Besides this display, the museum is well worth a visit if you happen to be in Paris anytime. INcluded in their collection are a few Renoirs, Cezannes, Gaughins, Matisses and Picassos. But, the highlight is definitely the Monets in the round.

After that experience, I walked over to the Rue Cler area, near the Eiffel Tower. I have never visited this area, but have wanted to explore here. We use the Rick Steves tour books as a rule and he loves this area. I do too. Rue Cler is a street where there are no cars. But, there are lots of fun food markets, cafes and stores to look at. I think this would be an interesting area to stay when next in Paris. Again, there is no shortage of patisseries (bakeries) and fromagneries (cheese shops) in this area. A great place to put together a picnic to eat as you walk. I stopped for a Cafw au Lait here and then walked back to the hotel.

I went through the St. Germain de Pres area. This is the area where Hemingway and his contemporaries hung out in their day. I passed the Cafe Flores and Le Deux Magots. These were Hemingways main places to get a meal and a drink now and then.

I finally made it back to the hotel at about 5:30. I bought a baguette along the way for a snack and contemplated where I should have dinner. I chose a small restaurant with an “early bird special” type meal. An appetizer and main course for a nominal fee. Sadly, I counterbalanced this with 2 glasses of St. Emillon wine from Bordeaux which cost me almost as much as the meal. As I review the meal in total, I think that Gene would be very disappointed that I spent this kind of money on wine. But, it was really good…..and worth it!

Tomorrow I am going on a day long wine tour into the eastern part of the Loire Valley ane the northern part of Burgandy. It took me awhile to decide on this one. I coucln’t figure out how they could cover so much ground in one day.. But, we are leaving at 7:30 am and getting back to our hotel at 7:30 pm. So, I’m guessing that’s how it’s done With a long day.

I’m looking forward to tomorrow! Until then….

Planes…and Paris

January 22, 2013

I was the first to leave the group of travelers on Monday to head for Paris. Gene, Carrie and Mike will all leave on Tuesday to go their respective ways. It was a great time with everyone. Gene and Carrie are great travelers and a lot of fun to be with, if anyone is interested in hooking up with them for another trip. And, of course, Mike is the lead traveler. We decided that he is the common thread among us. None of us in this group had ever traveled until we met Mike. What a great thread to weave.

As for Miami, Mike and I agreed that we could come back here for a long weekend type vacation again…minus the large Mojitos. Not only is it a clean beach with great accommodations, it is also packed with really interesting food options, which is the second most important thing after getting a great deal. As I mentioned, we stayed in a hotel on Ocean Avenue where there were lots of fun (and expensive) restaurants. But, one and two blocks back from the ocean, there were lots of inexpensive (relatively speaking) ethnic restaurants that had some pretty tasty food. The Cuban and South American food that we had on the first two days was very nice. But, on Monday, we had the best ethnic food, in my estimation. We ate at a small French bistro owned by a young french man. The meal was a perfect send off for me as I headed for Paris. We had escargot, onion soup, a warm oat cheese salad and a nutella crepe. YUMMY! On my way out, I mentioned to the owner that I was on my way to Paris and then on to Arles, which seemed to make him happy and certainly garnered a lot of attention from his staff and the other customers there.

As it turns out, I am glad to have had the nice lunch. My flight was delayed for 2 hours out of Miami. And, of course, we all know the delightful quality of the airline food. I had the cheese pasta surprise….a real treat….NOT!! I’m wondering if Chef Boyardee has the food contract for the airlines these days. It was about the same quality. They did give me a free coffee with Baileys for my inconvenience in waiting to board the flight. That was nice.

Anyway, I arrived in Paris finally and checked into my hotel after being ripped off on cab fair, which kind of ticked me off. Oh well…

I chose to stay at a small hotel in the Isle St. Louis area, which is near Notre Dame. There are shops and small bistros lining the streets right out of my hotel making it easy to get a quick meal. Directly across the street from the hotel is a fromagerie (cheese shop)…my favorite. I can’t get enough of the French cheese. I can hear my arteries screaming every time I take a bite. But, I continue to do this anyway. After all, I am in the land of cheese. There is also a wine purveyor on my street. I have already made friends with the proprietor and purchased a very nice bottle of 2009 bordeaux, which I am sipping on as I write this. I don’t ever need to leave this street. It has everything.

My room here is very cute. It’s tiny…again, the size of a postage stamp. I am on the very top floor that is reached by riding in an elevator that barely fit me, my suitcase and the porter, and then by walking up a set of winding, narrow stairs. I’m not sure how one exits this room in an emergency. I guess I’d better investigate that and form an escape plan. I can’t see how I would ever get out of here if there was a problem. Just a small problem.

The room itself has an exposed beam ceiling and fits into one of the corners of the building. Right next to the bed is a tiny sitting area in case I get tired of sitting on the bed. I’m always amazed at how they can make these small spaces work. It’s a miracle. In this case, it’s almost like being in the loft of a ski chalet. I feel like I am in a cocoon….and, since I am on the top floor, it is very warm…heat rises, I hear. All in all, I think I will be very happy here for the next few days.

I did leave the street and my cozy room to do a little sightseeing this afternoon. I walked over to Notre Dame and then to Sainte Chappelle. I have not been to Notre Dame since my first visit to Paris in the 90’s. It’s still the same. The building is huge and very impressive and the stained glass windows are beautiful. It’s also very commercialized, which I don’t love. If you want to see some stained glass windows and less commercialization, though, Sainte Chappelle is the place to be. The whole chapel is one big stained glass window. I have never seen anything like this. I have been here 3 times and I never get tired of viewing the windows. They are incredible.

Sainte Chappelle is part of the Palace of Justice. The chapel has 1,113 religious scenes depicted in the 15 stained glass windows that make up the building. They tell the story of mankind from Genesis to Christ’s resurrection. Some of the window series read left to right and some from the bottom upwards. If you take the time and look carefully, you can actually follow the stories. I have toured many cathedrals and churches in Europe and this is usually how it works with the windows. But, I still find it fascinating. The stained glass windows are how the religious teachings were communicated to the masses back in the day because of poor literacy levels of the common folk.

On my way back to the hotel, I stopped to have a double hot chocolate as it is freezing here and I needed to thaw out my toes that were like blocks of ice. There is snow on the ground and it was drizzling all day, the only downside to Paris in the winter. Oh well, the cheese and the wine make up for it.

I am going to call it a night at 7:15 pm. I am jet lagged and full of cheese and wine….a perfect combination for sleeping. Tomorrow, I plan to do some museum hopping. It’s a good time to be inside where it’s warm and dry.

Sweet dreams!

Taxis….

January 21, 2013

Well, so much has happened since I last connected. We are now in Miami staying in South Beach. This s happening place! So far, we have experienced “Art Deco” weekend, had a very large Mojito and visited Mt. Sinai hospital…in that order.

Our last stop on the cruise was in Cartegena, Columbia, which we all enjoyed. Even though it is known for its association with Columbian drug lords, it was very enjoyable. And, we discovered, one doesn’t need to participate in the drug part in order to have a good time. Imagine that! We shared a taxi into the old part of town with some of Gene’s buddies from exercise class.

The town is very European looking with lots of Spanish influence. There were small winding, cobbled streets that were great for walking. They were lined with shops…..Mike’s favorite….walking and shopping.. (We did manage to get him off the ship for a quick look.)

Mike and I lost the rest of the group early on as we were engrossed in looking at Columbian emeralds, apparently one of the main products of Columbia. Who knew?! There were emeralds everywhere…and, there were also people selling random things on the street. Mike made the mistake of stopping to view some sunglasses that one of the street vendors was selling. I need to hire this guy for a sales position! His persistence was admirable! He followed Mike all over town with his wares trying to get him to buy the glasses. The vendor started his negotiation at about $35.00. At the end of our time in town, he was down to $7.00. I offered $5.00 and was turned down. Vendor loses. Too bad!

The last days of the cruise were sea days, which we all enjoyed. Again, lots of sleeping and eating. But, we were glad to get to solid ground. We got off the ship in Fort Lauderdale, but were going to Miami and, of course, we didn’t have prearranged transportation. Using my new negotiation skills, I was able to get us a van ride to Miami for $20.00 per person. Not bad, considering it was a 30 minute drive.

We are staying at the Beacon Hotel in the south beach area of Miami and are right on the beach. Neat! What a cool hotel! It is done in the style of art deco, which is the case with all of the hotels in this section of Miami beach. Lots of neon is used to illuminate the hotels at night, which is really impressive and very retro looking. The street is lined with hotels and fun restaurants, and we can walk out of our hotel and step right into a place to eat or drink whenever we want to. We love this!

We happened to luck into staying here during a fun Art Deco festival. There were vendors set up right along our street. You can find anything here from Jewelry to furniture. There was also a parade of classic cars, which was of particular interest to Mike.

On our first night, we were right in the swing of things and decided we would have a drink at one of the fun bars. We happened into a place that was run by someone calling himself Chef Boyaredee. You may remember the name from the canned spaghetti and other Italian delicacies that are found on supermarket shelves everywhere. This should have been our first sign. He talked Gene, Mike and I into each having a giant mango Mojito, Apparently, the “chef” grows the mangoes right in his own back yard. Who could turn this down!? The drink was the size of the Atlantic Ocean. It had to be the equivalent of 6 alcoholic drinks. WOW!

Now, you would think that we would recognize the down side to finishing the Mojito and quit drinking before a real problem could occur. But, in our zest to minimize waste, we managed to down all 3 of those drinks. Gene and Mike had the lion’s share. After we paid our million dollar bill, we made our way back to the hotel and went to bed.

About 2:00 am, Mike woke up with a malady. I would give you some details on this, but I gave my word that I would not go into detail. We were up all night researching home remedies for this issue on the internet with no success. At 8:30, I insisted that we make a trip to the Miami emergency room. This, of course, met with much resistance. I don’t understand why men have such an issue taking care of health problems. Silly!!

But, finally, I convinced Mike that we needed to go. So, I went to the front desk to get help with a taxi to take us to the hospital. On my way back to the room, I met Gene’s daughter in the hallway. She had been out running. She looked at me and said, “I think Gene’s in the hospital. I have a note.” We discovered after some discussion that both of the boys were having the same problem. So, the 3 of us piled into the taxi and made the trek to the hospital to check on Gene and get help for Mike. What a morning!

I’m glad to say that the men are doing fine. Gene took the biggest hit. Let’s just say that he will be taking a souvenir of the hospital home with him on Tuesday and is moving a bit slow. We have all vowed not to have copious amounts of alcohol again. It’s just not worth it.

After our hospital ordeal, we realized it was going to be a drizzly day in Miami…no beach time. So, Carrie and I treated ourselves to a fun movie. We figured we deserved a treat for our hard work and support of the troops. We saw Argo, which I highly recommend….very well done.

We do love Miami, though. Today, we were able to get on the beach and it is absolutely pristine and gorgeous. Carrie spent some quality time there today with the sun and was very happy with this. We have also found some very interesting food. We had Cuban food last night at a place called Puerta Sagua and South American food today at a restaurant called Bolivar. We went twice, it was so good. YUM!

Tomorrow I will leave for Paris. Mike, Gene and Carrie will leave on Tuesday. We will fondly remember our time here in Miami, hospital and all.