Travel With Betsy

Last week, as I moved closer to the last few weeks of my stay in the south of France, I decided that I should consult the list of things I had hoped to do and places I had hoped to visit when I started out on this great adventure…..just to be sure I hadn’t missed something.  I hate missing things!  As I reviewed the list and thought about my experiences, I think it’s fair to say that I covered a lot of ground.  I missed a few things and a few places…..but only a few!

However, in contemplating how best to spend my last few weeks in France, Nimes bubbled up to the top of the list of places yet to be visited. It had been recommended by several people as a great city for ambiance,  food and some of the best Roman ruins in the area! Sounds like my kind of combination!  So, I was off!  I boarded the train on Thursday from Aix en Provence and looked forward to my long weekend in Nimes!

What a great stop!

My best description of Nimes is that it is “timeless”.  It’s a city that is just a little smaller than Aix en Provence….by about 50,000 people, I think.  But, the pace seemed similar.  You could leisurely wander the narrow, cobbled streets between the old buildings and find just about anything….or nothing.  There were the same “patissiers” and “boulangeries”, some of the same stores, and lots of places where the streets come together in a “square” housing many small cafes where one could while away the day drinking coffee, hot chocolate or something else while watching people.  The thing that was different about Nimes is that you could be aimlessly wandering through some of the old streets, losing
all track of time, look up and see an ancient Roman ruin…..right there in front of you!  I had a similar feeling in Arles when I visited a few years ago, but Nimes was different. Unlike Arles, where the ruins were on the outside of the town, in Nimes, it seemed that the town grew up around the ruins and incorporated them into the every day function of the city.  I thought it was quite unique.  In Nimes, one is always in the midst of a mixture of the modern verses the aged.  It was quite something.

As usual, I had some favorite things that I would like to tell you about…..

The first success, which was not a Roman ruin, was my stay at the Ibis Styles Hotel, one of the budget hotel options offered by the Accor Hotel chain.  It is located directly behind the train station.  I was coming to Nimes from Aix en Provence by train and Mike was coming from Paris by train to meet me, so the location was ideal.  And, even better, a quick walk out of the hotel and through the train station brought us to a scenic walkway that led right into the middle of town.

Right at the end of the walkway was the first of the Roman ruins, the arena.  It is reminiscent of the arena that I saw in Arles and the colosseum in Rome.  However, it is better preserved than the arena in Arles and is more complete than the colosseum.  In fact, they are still using it and have bull fighting there several days during the week as well a variety of performances….. like ballet.  Strange, but true.  But, a good example of what I mean by the new meeting the old.  At night, because it was the Christmas season, there was a light show projected on the outside of the building.  It was quite striking.

A walk forward through the old streets past a variety of clothing and shoe boutiques, restaurants, cafes, patissiers and chocolatiers brings you right up against the next of the well preserved Roman ruins, the Maison Carré.  According to my tour book, it is one of the most beautiful and best preserved of the Roman temples in Europe.  It is said that it’s Corinthian columns were an inspiration to Thomas Jefferson as he designed his buildings.  On the other side of the street was its modern counterpart.  The design of the new building mirrors the columns of the old building.  Another example of the old and the new working together.  Fascinating!

On the north end of town was, in my opinion, the best feature in the city and my favorite collection of ruins in Nimes.  It was a park called the “Jardin de la Fontaine”.  This park uses the ruins of an ancient Roman shrine as the centerpiece.  The park itself stretches out from there.  To the south of the shrine is a large park area with fountains and multiple benches where one can take a good rest.  The extension of the park to the north provides walking paths that climb a very steep, well-coiffed and terraced garden.  The paths are lined with chestnut and elm trees with flower gardens in the background.  One could spend a lot of time there walking and contemplating life.  I spent a fair amount of time there myself.  It was lovely.

In the lower area of the park near the Roman shrine was “Le Temple de Diane”, the remains of an ancient roman temple and some roman baths.  At the very top of the park was the “Tour Magne”, the city’s oldest Roman monument.  For a small fee, you could climb to the top and view Nimes and the surrounds.  This was probably the first of the climbing opportunities in the last 3 months that I opted out of.  I ran out of time.  But, the view from the ground was eye-popping, too….just without the climb….

Of course, as in the other towns I have visited in my time in France, this town also had it’s fair share of old churches.  I didn’t have time to go in, but did have time to view the architecture and take some photos as I passed by.  Just beautiful!

Oh, and we also had some really good food….some of the best of the trip to date, I think.  And, of course the wine wasn’t too shabby either here in the heart of the Langedoc wine region!

On Sunday, as we pulled out of Nimes on the train to go back to Aix en Provence for my last few days as a resident, I felt that I had taken a step back in time and then quickly fast-forwarded to the modern day while passing a “mélange” of everything in between.  The stay in Nimes was a real study of the complement of the old and the new and how well they can fit together.

Somehow, it just works……timeless!

in the “shoulder” season”…….

In all reality, when I started out here in October and even as I moved into the middle of November, it really was  the “shoulder” season.  There were some tourists, however they came mostly on the weekends.  But, now, in December a week or two before Christmas, it’s really more into the “off” season.  The joy of traveling at this time of the year is that, in general, there are not a lot of people around.  And, the people you do find are mostly locals   If you want to do something that typically attracts tourists, there are generally very few, if any, people to contend with.  You can actually walk up to things and get a good look.  And, sometimes, you receive unexpected special treatment that surprises you.  I had one such experience last week at “Chateau la Coste”.  What a great day!  Read on……..

Since almost the first day in Aix en Provence I have shared with everyone crossing my path that I work at a winery in California and have a strong interest in wine.  Each time,  I have been told that before I leave the area, I needed to make a visit to Chateau La Coste, a winery in the close-by hills near Aix en Provence.  Not only would I taste some of the best wines in the region, but I would also view some of the most interesting artwork as well.  Sounds intriguing, doesn’t it?  I thought so, too.

So, last week, I did some research to find out how to access this little gem by bus (no car, remember?).  The helpful tourist office in town got me started and then I got in touch with the nice folks at the “chateau” and they guided me in the rest of the way.  They helped me to decide that I should take the guided tour of the artwork and the guided tour of the winery.  And, I decided that I should do it in english.  I speak some basic french now, but probably not enough to fully appreciate the explanation in french.  So, it was set.  I would do the art tour at 10:00 and the wine tour at 1:00 and have lunch in between at the restaurant they have on site.

Getting there was a little complicated, I have to say.  I had to meet a bus here in Aix en Provence and ride about an hour out of town to one of the small mountain towns that I have been telling you about.  Then, I had to meet a smaller “Navette” bus for the short ride to the “chateau”.  The interesting folks who run the “Navette” require at least one hour notice to come by and pick you up….and, they are very strict about that!  So, you have to call them one hour ahead and arrange for this.  Oh…..and they don’t speak english….only french.  YIKES!

So, needless to say, on the appointed day I was up and out early so that I had time to walk across town to the “Gare Routiere” (bus station) and meet my first bus.  At the appointed time, I got on the bus and confirmed with the driver that, yes he was going to the stop I was looking for.  (Here’s something interesting to note…I discovered after one or two rides on the local buses that they don’t always stop where the published schedule says they will.  And, sometimes the stops that go to a place don’t have a stop for the return trip.  This is not always clear on the schedule.  So, it’s always prudent to make friends with the bus driver and ask lots of questions.)

Once we were clear on the stop I wanted, I settled into my seat and called the “Navette”.  After some negotiation on the phone with those interesting people (the conversation was mostly in french with a little “franglish” mixed in) ….I was on my way.  When we got to my stop, the very kind bus driver let me know that this was the place to get off.  He wondered if I was going to taste wine.  I said I was and then he let me know that I would need to walk another little bit to get to the pick-up point of the “Navette”.

OK…..good to know…..(See what I mean about making friends with the bus driver?  I may have missed this very important fact!)

I was still about 30 minutes early and it was cold outside, so I parked myself in a cute little local bakery to warm up with a coffee and fill my tummy with a pastry while I waited.  When I went back to the appointed stop, the “Navette” was waiting for me.  I got on the bus, and off we went to the “chateau”.

I have to admit that this whole coordination was a little more complicated than I thought it would be, and even the tour guide wondered how I got there on my own without their help.  In the end he decided it was because I speak a little bit of french and could communicate with the people at the “Navette”.  HMMMMM….maybe……I’ll have to give that one some more thought!

But, nevertheless, there I was, ready for the tour.  It was probably one of the best I have had anywhere.  And, because it was….you guessed it….. the “off” season, I was the only one on the tour.  So, I spent the next two hours on a private guided walking tour of the estate, learning about the works of art that were carefully designed for the location and strategically placed on the estate. It was fabulous!  Here are some of my favorites.

I was going to tour the winery at 1:00 and it was around noon by the time we were done with the tour of the art.  So, the tour guide took me to the restaurant and sat me down for lunch.

He said, “Don’t worry.  You are the only one on the wine tour.  Take your time with lunch.  The guide will wait for you.”

Score!  Another private tour.  So, I took my time, had a very nice lunch and went on to the wine tour when I was done.  As it turns out, the people who own the restaurant also have one in Los Angeles.  Small world!

The tour of the winery and the tasting that followed were outstanding as well.  I had a private guided tour of the production area, bottling line and the cave used for aging.  It was fascinating.  This was one of the most technologically advanced production areas I have ever seen….both on this trip as well as in our region at home.  All of the machinery was state of the art and all seemed to be very new.

And, to top it off, the building where all of this was housed was specially designed on the exterior to reflect the artistry of the estate as well as to maximize efficiencies on the interior.  The building was a piece of art in and of itself.  Very interesting and creative!

Oh, and the wines were good, too.  My favorite was a “black label” syrah that cost a whopping $45.00 Euro.  I really wanted to buy some.  But, it was a little out of my price range for this day.  And, honestly, I didn’t know how I would be able to drink the four bottles I already had at the apartment before I head back home.  So, I declined.

When I had seen everything that there was to see, the nice tour guide I had at the beginning called the “Navette” for me so that I could return to Aix en Provence.  Then……….my last complication for the day….the “Navette” pulled up to the main bus stop where I would get the bus back just as it was pulling away.  I started to get out of the “Navette” and the driver shouted (en français), “No! Get back in!”  I did and he quickly took me a back route to the next stop so that I could meet the bus there instead.   I would have waited another hour for the next one if I had missed it!  What a nice guy!  A perfect ending to a perfect day!

I will also throw this in…..all of the bus drivers complimented me on my use of the french language.  None of them had any english, so we communicated in french.  Success!

So, my thoughts are this…some things, even though they are complicated and difficult to achieve, are well worth the effort….like learning french and coordinating bus transportation to remote spots such as this one………. and………the private tours are nice, too!

You gotta’ love the “shoulder” season……….and, the “off” season isn’t too bad, either!

Parler….parler…..chat…..parler…..connect……parler…..chat……on and on it goes….

Here’s a news flash for you….I love to travel! I love to see new things, experience new cultures and marvel at the wonders of the areas that I am visiting.  But for me, equal to seeing the “things” along the way,  is meeting the people as I go along.  I have told you about a few of them in my past blog posts.

I seem to connect with interesting people wherever I go.   Sometimes I find them……and, sometimes they find me. On this trip, it has been a good mix of both. But, regardless of how I find them, people just seem to be comfortable telling me their stories, no matter what the situation.  And, somehow, I just can’t turn away.  I like to hear the stories (although, I have to admit I have heard some stories over the course of time that I could have done without.  HA!).  Tony, my friend at the winery where I work, says people share information with me because I always ask questions.  It’s true.  When people start talking, I start asking questions.  And, before I know it, I have made a connection.

At the beginning of my sojourn, I didn’t need to make an effort to meet people.  I had a nice start, thanks to my San Luis Obispo “coach”.  Then, I started the classes at the school.  There, we were a “mélange”of people trying to learn to speak french.  We were in class together everyday in a very intimate learning situation.  How could you not meet people and connect?!  But, now, after the classes are over, it’s a little different.  It takes a little more effort to connect.  So,  I have put my networking skills into play.  I’m happy to say that it’s working!  I have met some pretty interesting and amazing people in the last few weeks from all over world.  And, I’m kind of impressed with myself for having made the effort to find them.

I’d like to tell you about the nice people I have met here in France “on my own steam”.

My first encounter took place on the day after Thanksgiving.  After about two almost solid weeks of wind and rain, I decided that I needed to treat myself to a really nice meal.  So, I got on the internet and in my usual research method checked out the reviews on TripAdvisor and Yelp.  After some research, I decided on a restaurant named “L’Alcove”.  It was highly rated on both sites and not too far from my apartment.  So, I called and made a reservation.

It took me a minute to find it.  It is in an old section of town on one of those narrow, winding streets that are so common here in Aix en Provence.  After I entered the foyer of the restaurant, I carefully made my way down a very tiny circular staircase into the dining room.  It was a challenge on par with mounting the stairs in some of the old castles I have visited in my time here……especially challenging for those of us with eye issues.  But, I made it, got to my table that was in a room with about 10 tables and sat down.

In a few minutes, a woman came in and sat at the table behind me.  She turned around and, en français, asked me she could join me.  Of course, I said “yes”.  Before we knew it, we were talking, en anglais, about our common experience at the IS Language School (she was just finishing up) and our home country of the United States.  My delightful dinner companion was an attorney from Manhattan who, like me, has a fascination with the french culture.  Over a wonderful…and lengthy…..dinner of foie gras, veal with mushroom sauce, and of course, wine, we compared notes on a wide variety of things from learning french to retirement to the holidays and beyond.  On parting we exchanged email addresses so that we could stay in touch and she could find and read my blog.   What a nice dinner surprise!

My next encounter was even more surprising.  I mentioned in an earlier post that I had begun exploring the small towns outside of Aix that I could get to by bus.  On one of the days, I visited Puyloubier in the heart of the wine region.  I was too late to do any tasting and, so, thought I would go back the next day at a better time during the day.  Sadly, it rained the next day and I didn’t feel like tramping around in the rain to do wine tasting. (This was before the purchase of the quirky rubber boots!)  So, instead, I stopped in at Adrian’s coffee emporium to have a coffee and work on my blog post.

It was mobbed!  There were people everywhere.  They were all Americans who were cruising the Mediterranean and had stopped off for a guided tour of Aix en Provence.  We chatted (they were very interested in what I was doing here)…..and then the tour guide joined us.  I told her what I was doing in Aix en Provence and mentioned that now that my classes were over, I was looking for someone to practice my french with.  Maybe she knew someone who might be interested.

After a bit of thought, she said, “What about me?  It’s now the off season for my business and it’s very slow, so I have time.  I want to improve my english.  Maybe we can help each other.”

Deal!

She and I have met twice since then to practice.  Of course, as we have been talking, we have gotten to know each other a little bit.  We find that we have a lot in common with our love of travel, food and wine and also our interest in languages.  Yesterday, she took me out of Aix for lunch, to tour some of the local wine country and to visit Ventabren, one of the small hill towns, which was just beautiful.  Even she was amazed at how lovely it was with its Christmas lights in full force.  She had never been there at Christmas!  Hard to believe!

I have to throw this in as well.  I had a very adventurous lunch at this cute little local restaurant we went to.  I had something called “poulpe”, better known to you as “octopus”.  It was done like a “beef bourguignon”.  I can say without a doubt that I would not have tried this had I not been with my new friend.  Octopus…..hmmmmm…But, it was delicious!  I’m glad I had the experience!

We chatted along and before we knew it, it was dark and we needed to part.  But, what a great afternoon.  Sadly, this will be my last opportunity to spend time with her.  But, we have exchanged email information and I am certain we will be in touch.   She, too, is interested in doing an immersion….but, in the United States to improve her english.  Who knows, maybe she will be our next visitor for the guest house!

I found my next group of people on the internet of all things.  In San Luis Obispo, we have an internet organization, called “meet-up” that connects people with common interests.  I wasn’t sure, but I thought they were at least a national organization.  So, I went to my trusty lap top and started to search for a “meet-up” group, or something like it, in Aix en Provence.

Much to my surprise, I found a group of people here who are doing a “language exchange”.  About 15-20 people meet on a weekly basis to talk to people who are trying to improve either their english or their french.  They were meeting at a cafe in town that I knew, so I decided to try it out.  I have now gone several times and have met people from Germany, France, Ireland, India, New Zealand, Romania…..and the list goes on.  Most of them are in France for work.  But, some are here just because they wanted to live in France for awhile.  Most of them are trying to learn english, but a few are english speakers that are trying to learn french.  It’s quite an eclectic group…and the conversation is rousing at times!

I had coffee today with one member of the group who writes novels.  We met at a little book store here in town that caters to an english-speaking clientele.  They sell her books translated into English from German.  They were on special today, so I bought a few.  She signed them.  (Some of you will be getting a copy for Christmas.  I thought this was fun!)  My German friend would like to do a language immersion in the United States to improve her english.  We talked about her renting our little guest house in California for a time.  We exchanged information.  Maybe she will be the second visitor for the guest house!  Who knows!

I realized at the end of my day today, that during this french “immersion”, I have “parlèed” and chatted with more people from more places than I ever dreamed possible……and, I made a few friends along the way……Some will be friends for a day and some will be friends for a longer time.  Either way, I have benefitted from meeting all of them and the memory of their smiling faces and helpful chatter will be stamped in my mind for a lifetime!

And now…….the winds…………

If you have done any reading about the south of France, you have probably read something about “le mistral”, a particularly strong current of wind that blows from the Rhone Valley to the Mediterranean.  “Le mistral” now seems to be the norm here in Aix en Provence.  When I ask the locals here whether this is normal for this time of year, they just look at me and say,

“Ce n’est pas normale.  Mais, c’est le mistral.”  (It’s not normal.  But, it’s the mistral.”)

As I was reading about these winds on the internet, it said that this is a cool, dry wind that can move as fast as 90 kilometers an hour.  This is not the case here, so I question whether or not this is really “le mistral”.  It could be one of the other several wind conditions that can be found here.  Who knows?!  But, what we have here is lots of rain along with the 90 kilometer winds.  (In truth, I can’t say that the wind is 90 kilometers per hour.  But, it’s pretty strong.  I’m on my 3rd umbrella!)  But, who am I to argue with the locals!  If they say it’s the mistral, then it must be!

What I can tell you is that it’s pretty windy here and really wet.  Wet enough that I have invested in some of those weird rubber boots that are in style now.  I never thought I would have a pair of those boots….cute in an off beat sort of way, but not my favorite.   However, they do keep the feet dry!  I can also tell you that my hair and “le mistral” have created a fast and impenetrable partnership.  Together, they are creating styles seen only in horror movies!  My poker straight, flat to my head hair now has the capability to stand on end with one swift motion of the wind.  If only, I could get it to do that on command. HMMMM…….

On the up side, “le mistral” has blown in an interesting and varied mix of activities for me in the last week or two.  I think I have had every sensory experience that is possible to have since this wind has kicked up.  For that, I say, keep it coming!

This past week, I began to explore the vast bus system that we have here in Aix en Provence.  On Monday, I decided that I would take a run to one of the small towns on the side of Mont Sainte Victoire called Puyloubier.  It is the base of the wine industry in the AOC Cotes de Provence.  I expected that I might find some opportunities for wine tasting there.  What I didn’t expect was the absolutely stunning scenery as I rode along and the hairpin turns that the bus had to negotiate to get to the towns.  What a ride!

I did find some wine tasting.  But, sadly, I was too late to do any tasting.  (I planned to go back earlier on another day.  But, then it started raining again.  Needless to say that it is still on my target list.)  So, I spent a very pleasant and leisurely day walking through the town.  This town is positioned on the side of the mountain.  On one side, there are views of the mountain and on the other side of the many vineyards that make up the appellation.  The town itself is kind of sleepy on a Monday in the fall.  But, it was similar to the other towns I visited in the Luberon with their cobbled, winding streets that go straight up to the center where there is a church and few restaurants.  I wandered for quite a long time before I made my way back to Aix.  What a great way to spend the day.

Because of the high winds and rain this past week, I spent more time in the apartment than has been the norm for me on this trip.  On Thursday, Thanksgiving, I decided that I needed to go somewhere.  I was getting a little bit of cabin fever….and, it was Thanksgiving.  I felt obligated to do something interesting.  Since my last trip to Marseille, I had been thinking about visiting a museum near the port.  So, I decided that this would be the day to go.  When I started out, the rain seemed to be subsiding and the winds were reasonable.  This was my chance!

The museum was hosting an exhibit of all things to do with food, which is what I thought I would be most interested in.  I was wrong.  The artwork was a multi-media mixture of odd things that I had a hard time connecting with.  I’m sorry, but I don’t understand a video where someone is pouring a “Coke” over his head.  What’s the point?!

But, in the next room, there was a photographic exhibit by an artist named Raymond Depardon.  Among other things, he had been a french photo journalist who traveled all over the world taking photographs, mostly of people. The exhibit was a study of the progression of his use of color in the photographs.  It was fascinating to see how the color in his photos became more vivid as the years went by.  And, his ability to capture the subjects was outstanding.  It was well worth the effort.

This museum is also connected to one of the many ancient fortresses that one finds here, so I also spent some time wandering through there.  Again, the views to the port, the city and Notre Dame de la Garde, the old church on the hill that I had visited with my friends were just lovely.  All in all, it was a day well spent!

I also attended an interesting performance at the “Grand Theater de Provence” here in Aix en Provence.  It was a kind of “Cirque de Soleil” adventure based in the modern day.  The performers were young men mostly…one woman…….They captivated the audience with spectacular acrobatic feats. Every time I see one of these kinds of shows, I am amazed at the musculature of the bodies of the performers.  Their shoulders and backs are dis-proportionately wide.  All you can see is hard, rippled muscle.   It was impressive…both the bodies and the tricks!

The weekend was full of fun for the senses as well!  On Saturday, I went on a tour of the provence wine country with a local expert.  We visited two wineries, one in the Coteaux d’Aix and one in the southern part of the Luberon.  We had some outstanding wines.  This area is primarily known for rosé as I mentioned in another post.  However, the rosé is primarily enjoyed in the summer, so much of it was gone for the year.  Instead, we enjoyed two whites and some of the reds.

Just as in the other areas of France, this area also has about a million rules that the wineries must follow in order to be able to have a quality designation from the region.  Here, the rules range anywhere from the types of grapes that can be used in the wines to the number of bunches of grapes that can be on a vine.  The “approved” grape varietals found in this area are, again, similar to those in Paso Robles.  Grapes such as mourvedre, grenache, and syrah are common.  Here, while the winemakers are following the rules in order to get the appellation designation, they are also beginning to branch out with other grape varietals to make non-designated wines.  We tried  several of these.

The first winery, Chateau Vignelaure, was founded in the 1960’s by a winemaker who came from Bordeaux.  He planted Cabernet Sauvignon vines in addition to the regulated grapes.  We had two outstanding Cabernet Sauvignon/Syrah blends (2006 and 2007), a forbidden blend according to the rules here.  At this winery, the standard was to barrel the juice in oak for 18-24 months and then bottle and age for 2 years.  Hard to believe the long aging in this day of instant gratification.  But, the result was exceptional.  I would say these wines were the most elegant that we had.  Just great!

The other winery, Chateau La Dorgonne, was a little different.  The wines were good and approachable, but younger.  They were also not as sophisticated, but I liked them.  My favorites were a white that was a blend of Rolle (Vermentino), Uni-blanc, Grenache Blanc, and Roussanne and a red that was a Syrah and Grenache blend.  Both were quite good.  This winery was also branching out to make some undesignated wines.  We tried a Merlot and a Cabernet Sauvignon there as well.   They were both nice.

I ended my weekend with an afternoon at the Sainte Sauveur church, the main church here in town.  I really didn’t have a plan for the day and was walking by the church on my way to get a cup of coffee.  There were some people putting up signs advertising an afternoon concert.  I inquired about a ticket and was encouraged to come back thirty minutes in advance of the concert to purchase a ticket.

I did.  Good call.

The concert was being done by the Bach Society here in town, whose roster of artists was pretty impressive.  I heard Bach’s “Cantate BMV 26”, a feast for the ears.  And, because I got there early, I was able to sit in the fourth row from the front and got a close up and personal view of the musicians.  It was fabulous!

I was sitting next to a nice older french man.  He was very cute!  He liked the women singers because they were cute!  I also think he knows music, but he did like the view!  At the end of the concert, he looked at me and asked whether I was staying for the organ concert in thirty minutes.  After some thought, I decided to stay and heard that one as well…it was free…and, also spectacular!

I just love stumbling onto things like this.  Unexpected pleasure!

So, friends, that’s my week here in provence.  I’m going to take a day or two to catch my breath!  But, I have a few things on the roster for this week.   I’ll keep you posted on these activities and anything else that “le mistral” blows in!

So, from wind tunnel central, I’ll wish you a good night and a good week!

Do you have any obsessions?  I do.  I get started thinking about something and I can’t stop until I have either done it or resolved it in my mind.  I have many examples…some better than others……wine, good food, learning something new (like a new language), travel, meeting new people, crazy thoughts (like being abducted by aliens)….the list goes on and on depending on the moment.  You have read about my obsessions a number of times in the last years since I have been writing my blog.  And, those of you who know me the best get to hear about them on a very regular basis…the good, bad and the ugly.

The things we become obsessed with are kind of interesting sometimes.  Mine are no different.  On the surface, they seem quite disconnected.  But, as I was thinking about this, I decided that my obsessions are actually closely related.  They are tied together with one common theme.  I’m obsessed with testing myself and taking just the right amount of risk to see how much is possible in any given circumstance.  There’s a real knack to getting the balance on this.  And, I have to say that I haven’t always been successful.  But I will say that I think I’m getting better…or, maybe I’m just getting lucky.  Either way, I put it to the test last week during my visit to Mont Sainte Victoire.  Let me know if you agree.

As you know from earlier posts, I am here in Aix en Provence without a car.  There are a number of problems with having a car here for a three month period.  First, it’s expensive to rent a car here, the gas prices are quite high, and then there’s the issue of parking the car…..also not cheap or convenient.  Further, I don’t know how to drive a manual shift car.   So if I have a car here, I need to have an automatic shift.  They are difficult to find and very expensive…they can be more than twice the cost of renting a manual shift car.  From a cost perspective, it doesn’t make any sense.   So, I decided early on that I would use public transportation as much as possible and only rent a car if I wanted to do something that wasn’t accessible by public transport.  Luckily, I am an expert a using the trains and buses to my advantage.  I’ve had lots of practice!

Last week, I decided to really explore my options of places to visit using the very extensive bus system here.  I hadn’t been to Mont Sainte-Victoire yet, and, so, decided this would be my first target.  The friendly folks at the Tourist Information office gave me two options of how to do this by bus.   So, I was off last week to explore the great mountain that was so captivating to  Paul Cezanne.

After reviewing the routes, I decided that I would begin my adventure by visiting Le Barrage de Bimont, a “barrage” (dam) at the Lake de Bimont on the edge of the mountain. The dam was built between 1946 and 1951 by an engineer named Joseph Rigaud.  It provides water supply to several of the local areas and helps to reinforce the water supply to Marseille.  Beautiful and functional!  From the “barrage”, I could do some walking into the mountain on one of the many paths leading from the lake.  I didn’t really want to do any strenuous hiking, as I don’t have the proper shoes.  And, I still have the issue with my back that kicks in every now and then.  This plan would allow me to take my time, sit when I wanted to and quit when I needed to.  So, I was off!  Very exciting!

The bus connection was easy.  YAY!

As I was leaving the bus, I asked the “chauffeur” (driver) where I would find the stop for the return to Aix.  He pointed it out to me.  I thanked him and went on.  The man who got off the bus in front of me must have heard me ask and assumed that I didn’t know what I was doing (rightly so, I really didn’t have much of a plan).  Anyway, he walked with me on the road to the “barriage”  and gave me some pointers on proper walking etiquette (really?!).

As we were walking along, we established fairly quickly that I would not be walking along with him for the day.  He took one look at my shoes and said, “You don’t have the right shoes for the hike I want to take.”  I agreed….and, truth be told, was quite relieved!

I learned that he is a professor at the University here.  He teaches political science, or some such thing, in the mornings.  (Our conversation was in french, so I may have missed a thing or two.)  He is an avid hiker.  As soon as his classes are over, he grabs his backpack, gets on the bus and races to the mountain to hike.  Good for him!

When we reached the “barrage”, together we reviewed the information map that was available in the parking lot, and he helped me to form my walking plan for the day.  I was going to walk to the “Relais Cezanne” and then walk to a nearby parking area where I could catch another bus back to Aix.  Very nice guy to help me with this solid plan.

The next minute, he was off, and I was left to view the lake and the “barrage”.  It was quite a scene.  The day was bright and sunny and, so the lake reflected the intense colors of the sky.  I am finding that in the areas here where there is a substantial water feature, the waters are an unbelievable turquoise color.  With the backdrop of remaining summer green along with the changing leaves of fall in vibrant orange and yellow colors, the scene is breathtaking.  This was no different.  And, toss Mont Sainte-Victoire into the mix and and it’s quite something.  There were a few  small sailboats in the water.  Otherwise, the water was still and calm.  It was quite relaxing.

I spent quite a bit of time there just looking at the splendor of it all, and then decided that I had better begin my walk.  In truth, I wasn’t sure I wanted to go as far as my professor friend had suggested.  But, I could at least begin walking.  I could turn back anytime.

It’s been awhile since I have done any real walking in a place like this.  Signage was minimal and somewhat hard to decipher.  So, I cautiously decided that I would stay to the main path so that I could find my way back.  OK.  Good plan.  I stopped to take some pictures of the mountain as I went.  It was spectacular.  At one junction, I came across a group of people walking together.  One of the women offered to take a picture of me with the mountain in the background.  Thanks!

I asked the woman if I was heading in the direction of the “Relais Cezanne”.  She said yes and pointed the direction.  They were heading in that direction and offered that I could walk with them.  So, I did.  The group of us chatted and chatted, en français, I might add  (not many english speakers in this group).  I learned that this was a group of retired men and women who meet every Thursday to do something active.  From what I could gather, they all belong to a local organization of retirees that provides activities for free.  I later learned that there is an option for them to do something every day if they wanted to do it.  But, this particular group of people were mostly interested in physical activity and, so, organized an outing each week to do something active. This was their outing for the week! Fun!

Chat, chat, chat……and before I knew it, I was off the main path and didn’t know where I was…..sigh……I kept asking about where the “Relais Cezanne” was and they kept saying we were heading that way.  Finally, the woman who appeared to be leading the group asked (in broken english) why I wanted to go there.  I said that I was hoping to get a bus from there back to Aix.  She said I must have made a mistake because there were no buses from there.  It was out in the middle of nowhere.  Uh Oh!   When we finally got to a place where I could see the spot I was looking for,  I saw what she meant and realized that I had either made a mistake or had a miscommunication with the group or my professor friend.  Nonetheless, at this point it didn’t matter too much.  One thing I did know was that I didn’t want to go to the “Relais Cezanne”….too hard to walk and very remote.  Not a good idea, especially by myself.

The group leader invited me to continue to walk with them.  They were heading back to a town called Tholonet, where their cars were parked.  I knew I could get a bus from there, and so continued to walk along with them.  They were a fun and engaging group and it gave me a good opportunity to practice my french.

This group of older people (all were at least 65 years old….several quite a bit older) who were in better shape than most people half their age, and also in better shape than me!  It was, to say the least, a challenging walk.  We were up the mountain and down the mountain on roads, paths, trails….some through mud puddles!  At one point, one of the men lent me his walking stick to help pull myself up the steep path.  And, the last small piece of the walk consisted of “scaling” down the side of the mountain.  It wasn’t far, but treacherous…..I was glad to have the walking stick.  They were all very kind and offered a hand to me when the trail seemed rough.

Finally, we reached the bottom and the town where the cars were parked.  I was going to take the bus back, but the woman leading the group wouldn’t hear of it.  She lived in Aix and was happy to take me into town.  She was going that way, after all.

I’m happy to say that I made it back to my apartment alive and well.  (I realize it could have gone another way!) And, my back is crying out a little…not too much….it could be worse.  But, talk about pushing the envelope on risk in oh, so many ways!  Probably won’t be doing this again!  But……maybe……..

What a great day!  Fun times with an unexpected group of fun people!  I think it was fun for them to have me along, too.  At one point, they insisted on a group picture with me.  I got one, too!  I think they were intrigued with an American doing this on her own.  I have been intrigued myself from time to time on this journey.  This was one such day!

I have learned a few things from my day with the group.  First, age doesn’t matter as much as we think.  These 65 year old and older people were staying “young” by keeping up with physical activity and group connection.  It can be done, folks!  I have witnessed it!

Second, I can do more walking and hiking than I think I can, although, this was probably on the edge.  But, still doable!

Third, my obsession with being abducted is in high gear now.  I should have taken a map with me and been much more cautious.  This was a very nice group of people, and I wouldn’t give back this day for anything.  But, it really could have turned out differently.  Food for thought!

And lastly, the bus system here in Aix is amazing!  I can get to many of the small towns in the mountain by bus.  Vey exciting for me to know as I plan my last weeks here.  I can even get to some of the local wine tasting areas.  This is on my list of things to do in the next week or two.  I’ll keep you posted.   I’m hoping for good weather.  We are now having more and more rain as we move into the winter season.

I’m signing off now by adding these few more obsessions to my list…..Mont Sainte-Victoire and the thought of staying as physically fit as possible as I age…….

And, one more obsession that I am thinking about as well.  Despite my amazing day as a walker and user of public transportation, I really need to learn to drive a manual shift car so as to enhance my travel experiences.

I need a car……. and a teacher…….anyone……..anyone……….?!

“Misty watercolor memories……..’

…of the Luberon and beyond with my friends last week.  Luckily, I have the pictures to remind me of our time there.  Sadly, they hold a distant second place to the actual experience.   So, you won’t know just how beautiful it was and how much fun we had.  But, for me, the pictures will fondly remind me of my time in the Luberon and help the memories to linger on.  Over time, the memories will fade like a watercolor painting,  but for now…..they are in technicolor!  I’m going to share them with you while they are still bright and shiny.

We spent about two days in total exploring the small hill towns of the Luberon after a short stop in Avignon and a couple of stops for the wine tasting I told you about in the last post.  I had visited Avignon a few years ago and toured the Palais de Papes and The Benezet Bridge.  But, my friends were on their maiden voyage to France, and Avignon is a “must see” when in the area.  So, we spent one day touring the “ville”.   I was glad to have the refresher.

In Avignon, we stayed in a cute and historic hotel that was directly across from the Palais de Papes.  As we were planning the trip, we decided that we would try to minimize cost by sharing a room.  Our room there was ideal, although it was quite small.  I will add here that both friends that joined me on this adventure were “newer” friends.  One works with me at Adelaida Cellars and the other was a friend of hers that I had never met.  I will say that we got to know one another in a hurry and had a lot of laughs as we negotiated luggage and took turns getting dressed and showered in the morning in a tiny space.  It was like a pajama party for grown-ups.  Fun!

After Avignon, we moved along to our first Luberon adventure.  For the next two nights, we stayed in a bed and breakfast in the small mountain town of Goult.  This little town is off the “beaten path” and in the off season was very “sleepy”.  The bed and breakfast, which was in an old restored mansion, was delightful.  We had a small suite on one side of the house and were the only guests during our stay. So, we had the “run” of the house, which we all loved.   We spent a lot of time in the very large dining room.  They must do some things in the evenings there in the busy season, because it had a sound system with great speakers.   We were able to hook up my iPhone and access my collection of music on iTunes so that we could listen at the end of our days of touring.  I can’t say that I have ever seen something like this before.  But, it was nice to have some fun music in the evenings while we reviewed the events of the day.  I will also add that our hosts were also lovely people.  The young woman who we dealt with most of the time is an art therapist.  We had some interesting discussions about people and their responses to the arts.  Interesting gal!

For our exploration of the Luberon, we chose to visit some of the smaller, lesser known towns, Saignon, Sainte Saturnin les Apt, and Casaneuve.   They are quite similar in many ways, so I will describe them in general and just point out some of the highlights.  Each of the towns is situated on the top of the rock formations along the side of the mountains, so you can imagine that the views were spectacular in any direction we looked.  I have mentioned several times about the beautiful fall leaves in provence.  It was no different here.  It was a feast for the eyes of vibrant colors mixed in with some remaining green in the vineyards, olive trees and pine trees.  The muted colors of the mountain rock added yet another dimension.  Spectacular!

The small towns themselves were typical small, old villages with winding cobblestone streets that lead up (mostly) into the towns.  There was usually a small town square with a church in the middle.  We also found a few cemeteries that were interesting to wander through.  My traveling companions are also interested in the old churches.  So, we saw all of them.  Because we were a little off the “beaten path” and because if was the off season, we didn’t find a lot of “kitchy” tourist shops.  There were a few, but not many.  We were left to simply appreciate the towns as they were without all of the trappings of tourists.  It was great….and quite relaxing I must say.

We spent the most time in Sainte Saturnin les Apt.  One of my traveling partners had her “Lonely Planets” tour book with her and we were using it as a guide for the small towns  The book highly recommended this small town because of its charm and the remains of a castle at the edge of town that we could walk to for some amazing views.  All of us have issues with backs or knees or something else.  But, despite it all, we decided that we needed to climb the path to the castle.  I think we would all agree that it was well worth the effort.  And, we all felt good about being able to do it!  Again, the views were breathtaking  And, we were there just as the sun was setting.  The sky was filled with ribbons of pink and orange as we looked over the landscape from the castle.

We also had the best meal of the trip in Cassaneuve.  On our first day out before we left our bed and breakfast, we asked the owners whether they could recommend a good place to have lunch.  They suggested and helped us with a reservation to one of their favorite places in one of the small towns.              When we approached, it looked like just another ordinary bistro type restaurant with some tables and chairs out in the front for Alfresco diners.  However, when we entered the restaurant, it was a different story.  There were white linen tablecloths and very upscale surroundings.  We looked at each other and agreed that we wouldn’t worry about cost, but would have what we wanted and enjoy the experience.  The meal began with an “amuse bouche” and then went on to a three course meal consisting of squash soup; a main dish of Iberian pork done with an amazing sauce and a little sweetness added by bananas; and then a Baba au Rhum.  The rum was in a small tube that was stuck into the side of a mound of cake sitting on some creme anglais.  It was pretty and delicious….a meal to remember.  The chef served us and posed for a picture with us at the end of the meal.  He was very gracious!  In my opinion, the quality of the food was at the same level as some Michelin rated restaurants I have been to.  It wouldn’t surprise me to know that they had a Michelin Star, although I don’t think they did.

We also spent some time at the Fountaine de Vaucluse.  Again, I had been there with a group from the school.   There was a lot more water in the gorge this time than when I visited previously, as we had some rain during the week.  And, there were a lot more changing leaves….and, a lot fewer tourists.  So, it was a totally different experience from my last visit early in October.  What a peaceful time.

The three of us returned to my apartment in Aix en Provence after our trek through the Luberon.  I introduced the group to the markets in Aix and the Granet Museum.

On our last day together, we took a day trip to Marseille, a return trip for me, but a first time for them.  We visited the Cathedral Notre Dame de la Garde.  It is one of the grandest churches I have seen anywhere.  It sits on the top of the hill overlooking Marseille.  The church and the views from the church are quite spectacular.   From our vantage point, Marseille looked like a town made from “legos” all stacked one on top of the other sitting on the edge of the turquoise water.  It was quite a scene.

We finished the day with an interesting middle eastern lunch of couscous mixed with a broth of root vegetables and chicken.  Just great!

My friends have gone home now and I am on to the next adventure here in Aix en Provence.  But, the memory of our time together will linger on.  In one of the cemeteries in the Luberon, I found a headstone that had this saying on it, which I think sums it all up…..roughly, it means “Memories are like a book that we read without stopping and which never closes”.

On to the next memory!

Who said that?!  It was one of the Roosevelts,wasn’t it?……Franklin D, I think……

Whomever it was, I am thankful to have been able to call on his words of inspiration this past weekend when I was evaluating the wisdom of renting a vehicle here in France and driving it to Les Baux by myself.  I have to say that, bold as I am, the thought of being in a foreign country alone in a car was daunting to me.  So much so, that I almost didn’t do it.  But, I wanted to see Les Baux and the only way to do it is by car.  And, I was scheduled to pick up my friends in Avignon on Monday to do some more touring.  So, I kept moving forward.

Nevertheless, on Saturday morning, when I was on my way to Hertz, I was still thinking about canceling.  What if I get lost, what if something happens to the car, what if I am abducted by aliens……. Hey, it could happen!  There is no proof that aliens don’t exist.  I could be swept into “never never land”…lost forever……  OK.  Perhaps this was, once again, an overreaction……one of my only faults!  HA!  So as I was walking, I had a stern talk with myself, convinced myself that I would be OK (it turns out that I can be very persuasive when I want to be), rented the car, visited Les Baux and the surrounding area…..and……lived to tell about it!  I’m glad I took the chance.  Thanks FDR.  I will be forever grateful!  Here’s why….

Les Baux is considered a “commune” in Provence, here in the south of France.  The town gives its name to bauxite, which was first discovered there.  Now, Les Baux is a tourist town….population 22…..with a reputation of being one of the most picturesque villages in France.  It is positioned in the Alpilles Mountains on the top of a grouping of huge rocks.  The steep and winding streets of the old village lead up to the ruins of an old castle that faces south to provence.  When I was at the top of the castle (of course, I climbed to the top) I could see Aix en Provence in the distance (about 70 kilometers away) nestled in between the peaks of Mount St. Victoire.  The views were breathtaking!

I spent Saturday and Sunday in the area of Les Baux.  On Saturday, after renting the car and successfully maneuvering the hairpin turns on the roads leading to Les Baux, I decided I would check into my hotel and then tour the old village. (I only got lost one time….drove down a dirt road in the middle of just about nowhere into a herd of grazing sheep, a group of reindeer and some burrows, I think. We were all surprised!)    After climbing about 1,000 steps on the side of the mountain, I reached the old village (WHEW!).  I spent part of the afternoon wandering and climbing the tiny winding streets to the top of the town where the castle was located.  I, of course, stopped in at the two churches in town to get my “fix” (love the old churches)….beautiful and inspiring!

Then, I spied the castle and went in.  I spent the rest of the day wandering around the grounds of the castle, looking at the views and climbing to the top of the ramparts.  I thought the stairs on the path to the little church in Moustiers Sainte Marie were challenging, but these were even more so.  Really, most of them were just rocks piled up unevenly making the rise on the steps quite variable….and, they were slippery!  Very challenging for those of us with vision issues.  And, again, coming down was much more difficult than going up! YIKES!  But, I made it, and it was well worth the effort.  The views were stunning.  And, again, with the changing colors of the fall leaves, there were splashes of yellow and orange here and there that added some color to the landscape.

I was also relieved to find a display of all types of medieval weapons in the middle of the castle grounds….things like catapults, battering rams, etc.  Since I was by myself, I felt this sort of protection could come in handy!

When I was checking into the hotel earlier in the day, the lovely young woman at the front desk told me about an art show that was being held at a place called the “Carrières de Lumières”.  It sounded interesting, but wasn’t at the top of my list for viewing.  ( I really wanted to spend my second day doing some wine tasting.)  Thought I would check out the Lumières if I had time.  However, as a result of a miscommunication (en français…OOPS….), I ended up buying a ticket to view this as well as the castle.  So, on Sunday, I decided to take a look.  I paid for it, after all!  And, it was raining and this was an indoor activity.  The show was titled “Klimt and Vienna A Century of Gold and Colour”.   I thought it would be a stationary display of Klimpt paintings.  I would go in and spend a half hour and then go on.

Not so, my friends!

I walked through the front doors into a darkened room.  Great, I thought.  I have night vision issues.  I’m going to trip over a baby or a small person.  (I’ve done it before!)  So as to minimize the chances of this, I just stood in place for a few minutes to get my bearings.  Just as I was thinking that this visit was not a good idea, I looked up and I was surrounded by lights, colors and designs that were moving and changing. I heard classical music playing in the background.  As I watched, I realized that the music was following the pattern and mood of the art.  The works of art were projected everywhere…on the ceiling, on the floor and on every wall.  It was all encompassing. Then, I could see where I was.  I was in something like a “grotto” that was built into the side of the mountain.  In the middle were rough columns.  Every possible bit of wall and column space was covered with the projected works of art.  I don’t think I have ever seen anything like it.  I was blown away!

There were continuous shows…..all different.  I spent about two hours totally mesmerized by the art of Klimpt and his contemporaries and the music.  It was so moving it actually brought me to tears.  I am welling up right now just thinking about it.

After I could take no more, I went out for a hot chocolate and read about the history of the venue and the art.  As it turns out, this was an old limestone quarry that was dug out in part to build the walls of Les Baux.  They now use this venue to do these shows on a regular basis.

After I gathered myself, I left the quarry and spent the rest of the day wine tasting.  I needed some wine after all of that!   There are two wineries in the area of Les Baux.  I went to both.  I will tell you about them along with my other wine tasting escapades to date in my next post.  Good stuff!

I also had some excellent food in the small towns surrounding Les Baux.  My meal on Sunday was one of the best of the trip so far…carrot soup to start and then a main course of some very tender veal medallions with a roquefort cheese sauce.  YUM!

I will also report that I was able to communicate very well with the hotel staff and the wait staff in the restaurants, en français.  The woman on the first day even complimented me on my use of the language.  It was very satisfying for me to hear that!  It wasn’t perfect, but understandable.  Success!

So, as I end my post for today I will leave you with this.  It seems that meeting your fears straight on can have some very successful and satisfying outcomes!  It pays to take some chances every now and again.  Anyway, it worked for me!  What a great weekend!

As I drift off to sleep, I am still thinking about the amazing light, art and music and views….nice way to end the day…..

bonne nuit!

“I am an ordinary person who has been blessed with extraordinary opportunities and experiences.  Today is one of those experiences.”

This quote by Sonia Sotomayer sums up my thoughts so far about my French adventure.  Here’s the story…….

This was my last week of classes at the french school.   As I look back on my time there, I am amazed at how much I have learned, how much I have done and how many friends I have made.   I can’t begin to tell you how much the people I have met in the last four weeks in these classes have touched my heart.   It’s an interesting experience doing something like this.  Because of the intensity of the classes (every morning for 3 hours) and the continuous contact with the other students during the classes as well as during the extra-curricular activities, you find yourself bonding with people in an unusual way…..and, very quickly.  And, you find yourself making unexpected friends.  At least I did.  The most remarkable thing for me is that the people I became closest to here, don’t speak any english.  In an earlier post, I said we wouldn’t get enough of the language to really get to know each other.  I was wrong. And, we were able to do it through the use of the french language, which none of us knew when we started!  Extraordinary!

My Brazilian friend summed it up quite well when we all went to dinner last night for one more time before we all go our separate ways.  She said that she has had a most magnificent experience at the school.  One that she might never have again.  When would she again ever have an opportunity to make friends with so many people from so many cultures.  The four of us at dinner last night noted that we were even from four different continents….South American (Brazil), Asia (Japan), Europe (Switzerland) and North America (USA).  Again, extraordinary!  What a wonderful and surprising outcome to the first part of my Aix en Provence adventure….a group of ordinary people (one teacher, two retirees, and one customer service expert….among others) having a quite extraordinary experience!

In a way, I’m sad to see it end.  But, I know it must in order for all of us to move forward to the next thing…..whatever that is.  But, I have to say…it’s bittersweet……

(Sorry for the poor quality of the picture.  We were in a Cuban restaurant whose lights were pink.  Very difficult for pictures!)

In addition to saying good-bye to my new friends, I have some other experiences to share as well.   On Tuesday of this week, I ventured out on my own for lunch again and found a great lunch spot that was recommended by my San Luis Obispo “coach”, called Chez Fanny. Cute place with about 8 tables.  Kind of like the other restaurant, but a little more upscale…..not much. What a great time.  Not only was the food good, but I think it was the first time since I have been taking the french classes that I realized that I could communicate with a french person.  The restaurant was quite busy.  I sat down at the only available table, which was for two people.  Another woman who was also there alone came in and was waiting for a table.  I offered her the seat across from me and she accepted.  We talked for almost two hours….en français.  She was very kind…..and patient!  And, in the end, we both had a nice lunch and a good conversation!  Score!

Also, visited the other little lunch restaurant together with my friends from the school for one last time before we move along.  (I’ll be back for lunch again.  I have more time in Aix….but, on my own.)  Meet the nice ladies who have been feeding us for these many weeks!

I also attended an interesting wine class that was set up by the school.  One of the local merchants came to talk to us about the wines of France.  It was quite informative and a lot of fun!  And, we tasted some interesting wines from all over France.  My pastor friend from Holland let the speaker know that I worked in a winery in California.  I think the speaker was a little intimidated.  But, the discussion with him was fun.  The next day in class, my friend from Holland said that he was quite impressed with my knowledge of wines.  I was the only woman in the class, and I knew the most about the wine.  He thought that was interesting.  I think he is interesting!  HA!  I am going to dedicate one post to my wine tasting experiences so far.  I’ll include this one.  Stay tuned!

I also attended an interesting art exhibit this week.  Monique, who owns the “bastide” where I am staying  has a gallery on the lower level of the building where she sponsors rotating art exhibits.  She invited me to attend an event that was going on this week.  I really didn’t know what it was about, but decided I should go, at least for a short time in a show of support.  As it turns out, it was a showing of her work, which was spectacular!  Who knew!  I met some very interesting people there from France, Italy and the United States.  And, I met, again, Monique’s delightful mother, Simone.  When I tried to talk to her in French, she once again, said that she doesn’t speak “American”.   So much for my progress with the language.  How funny!  Anyway, it was a great time!

I am now in Les Baux de Provence having a different kind of experience….an actual vacation….sans (without) homework.  HA!  so far, this is proving to be an extraordinary experience as well.  I’ll fill you in on the next post!

I am meeting some American friends in Avignon tomorrow for some wine tasting in Chateauneuf du Pape.  We have an appointment with Beaucastel, among others for learning about and tasting the wines from this famous region.  I’m looking forward to it.

So, here’s to extraordinary times with ordinary people.  Can it get any better?!

Salut!

What a great weekend…..which has now come to an end.  I am sitting in my little apartment “après le dîner” (after the dinner)  I made from the findings at the marché (market) here in Aix.  I’ve had a glass of my yummy french rosé and am recapping in my mind the events of the weekend.

The music of Django Reinhardt is playing in the background from a recording I have on my iPhone.  Could this get any more French?

Do you know Django?  He was a renowned french jazz guitarist (très célébré and now long gone).  He is often sited as the greatest guitarist of all time.  He has a very distinct musical style with an interesting kind of syncopation that is very identifiable.  In my mind he was kind of an underdog that enjoyed a great success.  He had an accident that paralyzed the third and fourth fingers of his right hand.  So, he taught himself to play with the other ones.  I love his story…and his music….pretty amazing! His music always reminds me of Woody Allen movies (Woody often uses the music of Django in the background of his movies) and France.  It’s a good choice after a very french, and amazing weekend!

This weekend, I again went with a group from the school on a “voyage incroyable” (incredible voyage).  This time we visited the Gorges du Verdon and the little town of Moustiers Sainte Marie.  I find it difficult to put into words the absolute splendor of these two sites, particularly the Gorges du Verdon.  This gorge is considered to be the most beautiful canyon in Europe and is categorized as a “Grand Site de France”.  I can see why.  Drawing on the comments of my Japanese traveling partner, I will say that it was a little bit like being in a movie.  The weather was perfect, the scene was perfect and you could almost hear the strains of quiet music playing in the background as you moved along.

Georges, our trusty guide, gave us two options on how to view the gorge.  We could either walk on a path around the lake in the middle of the gorge, or we could take a “pedalo” (pedal boat).  My friend and I opted for the “pedalo”.  I’m so glad we did.  Because the “pedalo” is small, we were able to paddle directly into the gorge.  The walking path wouldn’t have allowed for this.  I have traveled quite a bit and have been to some beautiful places, the but landscapes here were some of the nicest I have seen……unforgettable.  And, with the season change, there were some changing leaves that added a few splatters of color here and there.  It was breathtaking.  Thanks to my two male Swiss traveling companions from the school for actually pedaling the “pedalo”.  The little boats were made for four people, and while my Japanese friend and I were perfectly willing to do the pedaling, these two wouldn’t hear of it.  So, we got a free ride in one of the most beautiful places I have ever been.   Thanks guys!

Then, we went on to Moustiers Sainte Marie.  This is a very tiny town near the gorge that is known for pottery.  It’s also known for the path from the town that goes just about straight up to a small church that sits on the top of the mountain.  Climbing to the top was our first order of business.  After, of course, we filled our water bottles with water from the fountain in the center of town.  This was a first for me.  I don’t think I have ever seen a fountain like this with clean, fresh, and drinkable water, let alone have a drink from one.  Fun!

So, after we filled our bottles, George led those of us who were brave enough to go, to the top.  As I looked up from the bottom, I muttered under my breath that I wasn’t sure if I could do this.  My new young pastor friend from Holland heard me and said he would go and take pictures for me.  It would be just like I was seeing it myself.

WHAT!……..I think this was precipitated by a discussion we had earlier about my being retired.  He thought I was 65, so I guess he thought I was too feeble to go up the hill.  Do I look 65?  If so, please tell me so that I can get a face lift or botox or something!  He has a few things to learn about people.  But, he’s pretty young and he meant well.

My Swiss “pedalo” pedaler came up behind me and said, “Let’s go.  I don’t understand about this not going.  When you’re here, you have to do these things.”  I agree.  And, I’m happy to say that I made it up……..and down, which was actually harder than going up.  The stones were very slippery.  But, it was worth it to see the view.  It was spectacular!

After we descended, my traveling companions and I walked leisurely through the town and looked in the shops.  Some of us bought ceramics.  They were quite lovely and very colorful.  I am loving the bright colors here in Provence.  I loved them in Mexico when I visited earlier in the year, too.  They really lift the spirit!  Makes me feel happy!

That was about it for the day for me!  I was spent!  I walked into town with the pastor from Holland.  He was going with a group of people for a drink.  No thanks.  It was bedtime for me!

Today,  Sunday, I spent a very lazy day wandering through town a bit.  I was going to go out for dinner, but decided after looking over the fish selection at the market, that I would cook in.  So, I made my selections and went on.  After depositing my treasures back at the apartment, I strolled over to a park on the other side of town.  It’s a great place for quiet contemplation.  I got out the french novel I am reading in an effort to build my french vocabulary, and read for a good part of the afternoon.

I stopped on my way back at “The Deux Garcons”.  This is a famous cafe in town that I wanted to try.  I had a glass of wine and did some people watching.  This “very french” looking man was sitting across the courtyard from me.  He was so cute, that I couldn’t resist snapping a picture.  Love the beret!

So, now I am at the end of my weekend sojourn.  It will be a hard one to top!  Tomorrow, I will be back to conjugating verbs and engaging my brain so that I can build conversation with my classmates.  Oh boy!

I really have nothing else to say except…..WOW…..that’s all…….just……..WOW!