Archive for the ‘Solo Travel for Women’ Category

“East Coast Boogie….”

August 15, 2017

“East Coast Boogie….”

Well……….

It has been a difficult number of months. I hate to start a series of fun blog posts with that, but it’s true. In between enjoying the fun local scene in my hometown, I have had to deal with some life events that have not been nearly as enjoyable….one right after the other…..since before the beginning of the year. These things, in combination with the weird and crazy happenings in the political scene here and abroad, have really put a damper on things for me and have curtailed my fun travel escapades for the year so far.

I was in need of a travel adventure! Badly! But, I also wanted and needed to visit some east coast friends and family. So, I thought,

“Why not connect them all together?”

Yes…..why not?!  Travel is always a good idea.  No matter where you go!

I was sold!

So, I left Los Angeles a few days ago….on my way to a fun journey to see some east coast landmarks while mixing in a few fun visits with family and friends.

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For the next few weeks, I will be doing the “East Coast Boogie” with stops in New York, Pennsylvania and Washington, DC metro area. By the time I am done, I will have satisfied my “fun travel quotient” for the summer and done some fun and needed people connecting, as well.

My adventure started on Wednesday at 7:00 a.m. when my taxi didn’t come to pick me up at the appointed time.

UGHHH……

I have used “Yellow Cab” numerous times this year and have never had a problem. However, this morning when I called the dispatch office of the taxi company to find out where my taxi was, I was disappointed to hear that they did not have a record of my request and it would take at least 20 minutes for them to get someone to my location to pick me up. We have a small airport in the little town where I live, but sometimes the security lines are out of control, so one needs to get there in plenty of time.  And, of course, I didn’t leave plenty of time, just enough time to get there and through the lines.

After a very serious….and not so nice……discussion with the Yellow Cab dispatcher and the taxi driver they dispatched to pick me up in 20 minutes, I took matters into my own hands!

I called “Uber”!

I should have done this to begin with. In 7 minutes, Thaya was at my house and ready to take me to the airport. She was truly a lifesaver and a “breath of fresh air.” When she asked how my morning was going, I, of course, shared with her my tale of the no-show taxi.

“Oh”, she said. “That’s too bad. The taxis in this area are terrible.”

You think?!

I was getting ready to be testy with her….I was inconvenienced after all…….when she began to tell me about her experiences with “Uber”and “Lyft” and how wonderful it is to work for them….. and…… how it offered her a way to “give back” sometimes.

“Give back”?  I was intrigued!

She told me about a recent pick up she did at the local hospital. There was an older man who had been waiting for 2 hours at the Emergency Room for a taxi to come when the hospital staff called her to pick him up. With each call, the dispatcher promised a pick up in the next few minutes. But, despite numerous calls from the hospital staff, the taxi never came to get the visibly critically ill man.

Thaya picked him up in record time and delivered him to his house. When they got there, the man realized that in the excitement of the ambulance coming to the house to take him to the emergency room, he had forgotten to take his keys with him to the hospital. He was locked out.

Thaya, not wanting to leave him alone, called a locksmith and then waited with him until he was in his house. She even went in with him to get him settled before she left to pick up her next customer. The man asked if he could call her for a ride to his follow-up check up later that week and she agreed.

He never called.

After some days, she went by the house and found a neighbor watering the flowers.  Thaiya learned that the man had passed away.

“We never know what we are going to get into from day-to-day”, Thaya shared.  “I have other stories, too.”

What a poignant tale…. and….a true testament to the kindness of people.

I was inspired to drop my malaise of the last few months and forget about my bad taxi experience…and being ugly about it……. so that I could summon up my usual enthusiasm for travel and people connecting.

I”m happy to say that I found it! Whew!

And, in my usual form, I met several interesting and entertaining people on my travel day….my first day out.   The first was the Homeland Security checkpoint person who…..after I told him about my taxi story……tried to convince me that I had missed my flight.

“Your flight was for yesterday!”, he told me.

What?!

“Oh”, he said”, Just kidding!” Ha!

He was trying to be funny.  Actually, it was funny. We both got a good laugh out of it.

Then, there was the woman on the ride between my hometown and LAX who thought I looked like the birth mother of her adopted daughter. I am often told that I look like someone or another.  It’s kind of funny! My seat mate and I had quite a conversation about this……which, by the way…..did not reveal whether this was a good thing….or a bad thing. HMMM……..I”ll assume it’s a good thing…..

And, on my last leg, sitting next to me was the college philosophy professor who thought I was a therapist. I was reading a book on mindfulness and happened to ask him if he was a nervous flyer after he wondered if I would open the window shade because he was claustrophobic. No, I’m not a therapist, just observant. After a lively conversation, he invited me to join him in Denver to view the eclipse on the 21st. He insisted that I had to see it.  I’d like to…..but, I can’t go….with him…..on the 21st…..or ever…….too bad!  HA!

My last perk of the day was at the Hertz counter. My fight got in to Rochester around midnight. When I was planning my trip, I decided it made good sense to stay at the Fairfield Inn on the airport property. I would pick up my car the next day when I was awake and alert and then go on my way to visit my nephew in Rochester. As it turns out, the Hertz counter was just in front of the baggage claim. The cars were in the lot across the street…no waiting, no shuttle bus, no hassle. So, I went up to the counter to see if I could pick up my car now instead of tomorrow.

No problem!

The clerk was really nice and very helpful. And, after some fun repartee we realized that we were both from California.  He wondered if I had a Costco card.

But, of course.  Everyone in California has a Costco card.

My status as a Californian, my Costco card and my sense of humor got me a free upgrade to the next level of car, free Siruis radio and a substantial discount. I ended up paying less money to ride more days in a better car with an upgraded music experience .  If I had come in the next day…or had been cranky…… I wouldn’t have gotten any of those things.

It was a good call!

Here’s what I learned on the first day of my whirlwind tour of the east coast. There are still nice people out there who are willing to go out of their way to make your day.  But, you do have to open your mind in order to see them and realize the kindnesses.  I forget that sometimes!

What a great lesson….

I, for one, have been way too focused on my own limiting thoughts in these last challenging months trying to figure out how to handle certain situations, whether I am doing the right thing, and ruminating about how others will feel about me if I do this or that. I’m done.  It’s too much “stuff” to get bogged down with.  My fun day of traveling cross-country made me realize that I need to “get out of my own head” for a while and do what I do best….connect with people and the things that bring me joy!

So, I’m stoked and ready to do the “East Coast Boogie”.

Fun stories guaranteed!

Stay tuned!

“Filoxenia” at “Dio Deka”….

April 3, 2017

“Filoxenia is the Greek word for traditional hospitality, in which a stranger (xenos) is instantly made a friend (filos) after being welcomed into one’s home.”

I learned the meaning of this very special term at “Dio Deka”, the restaurant where I chose to dine on my last night in Los Gatos. “Filoxenia” is the base of the culture, and it was evident in every aspect of this fabulous restaurant.

“Dio Deka” is a former Michelin rated Greek restaurant located in the Hotel Los Gatos, where I made my base for the great Forester “bonding” adventure. It is the only Greek restaurant in the United States that has received a Michelin Star. When I visited Los Gatos years ago, eating in this restaurant was part of my plan. It didn’t work out on that trip. But, I vowed to come back and have a meal here sometime.

This was the time! What better way to end my stay in Los Gatos than by enjoying a meal and the fine company of the family at “Dio Deka”?   Not only was the food spectacular, the hospitality experience was unparalleled. I was dining alone, but truly felt like I was having a fine meal in the company of friends.

Truth be told, I went back and forth about whether to take a chance on this restaurant.   It was relieved of the Michelin star in the last few years, and I read a few reviews that were not stellar. So, I did my usual survey of locals to get an opinion. Even those were mixed. But….seasoned traveler that I am….I know how it goes with reviews. One needs to take them with a grain of salt.   There are lots of different slants on what constitutes “good” and even more variation on “great”. And, frankly, the Michelin star is a good quality measure, but does not always guarantee a great meal. Still, I was so conflicted that I waited until about an hour before I was planning to go to dinner and decided that if I could get a reservation, I would give it a try. I’m so glad I did.

After I was seated and had a minute to review the menu, the waiter came by and we established that I was dining alone. He wondered if I would have a glass of wine. But, of course! I wondered if he had a recommendation. I had decided to have the Moussaka. He recommended several wines that would pair well with that choice, but I landed on an “Old World” Bordeaux Blend.

He explained that the Moussaka was not “traditional”, but a “deconstructed” version, which made me question my choice a bit. But, his description sounded so good, that I decided to stay with this. I also ordered some marinated Greek olives. For those of you who have traveled with me, you know that I have an olive fetish. I love them….all kinds….and have tried them everywhere I have visited. So good!

The Moussaka was, indeed a treat. It consisted of 2 short ribs, each of which was topped with a slice of roasted eggplant that was topped with a small mound of pureed potato that had been crisped in the oven. The ribs were placed decoratively on the dish surrounded by an eggplant puree, a balsamic reduction and a sprinkling of roasted cherry tomatoes. There was a crisp, homemade potato chip propped up on the side of each of the short ribs. It was a work of art.

I constructed each perfect bite with a small bit of each of the components of the dish. The combination of crispy, smooth and chewy textures along with the savory and sweet flavors was unbeatable. And, the wine choice was a perfect match for the flavors and the richness of the meat.

A few minutes into the meal, the waiter came by to get my thoughts. All I could say was

“This is fantastic! So delicious!”

We chatted for a few minutes about my visit to Los Gatos, and I asked him about the lost Michelin star. Apparently, they had a change in chefs and things went awry. He said it happens all the time. But, they now had someone new, William Roberts, who is showing great promise. I agreed and said that if this meal shows any indication, they would certainly win back their star.

Well……he relayed my compliment to William, who communicated back a hearty thank you through the waiter. Then, as I was nearing the end of my meal, William came by to meet me and thanked me for my comments. He was so appreciative….and humble. I passed along my card from the tasting room where I work. I hope he stops by sometime. He said he would…..we’ll see……After he left, the General Manager came by to see what I thought of the Moussaka.

Again…..Delicious!

At the end of the meal, my waiter came by with the check and said that William was so glad I enjoyed my meal that he waived the cost of my glass of wine. How nice!

As I left, each of the staff members I passed spoke to me, thanked me for coming and wished me a good evening. What a wonderful experience! I truly felt like I was a welcome part of their family!

This experience was the highlight of my day, even a little higher than my discovery of the “off-roading” capability of the mighty Forester!

It even topped my wine tasting follies for the day, which is always a favorite for me! In the end, I did find a few open tasting rooms where I met some interesting characters and had some great wine.

This tasting room had a tropical theme!  Funny!

 

My favorite for quality was Wright’s Station.

The owner and winemaker was behind the bar pouring. He was retired from another career and decided to try his hand at making wine. So, he went to UC Davis to study winemaking, got a certificate and went to town. He has a fairly new tasting room with spectacular views of the Santa Cruz Mountains.

I loved his Pinot Noir….and other things, too…..but, the Pinot was my favorite!

My favorite tasting room for interacting with interesting characters was Savannah-Chanelle.

The wines were good, but the staff was better. Mike and Luke were behind the bar. They kept me quite entertained….and informed about the wine…..while I was there. We swapped tasting room stories and had a few laughs. Very fun!

So, all in all, I would deem my “bonding” adventure a great success. I am one with my new car (which, by the way got a stunning 34 miles per gallon on my trip home….another thing to love), my tummy is full of yummy food and wine, and I have some new friends in Los Gatos….my favorite part of travel.

I also have a new word in my repertoire….“Filoxenia”. I think I will take this on as my new travel mantra.

I like it. I think it suits me……

 

 

 

 

 

 

“Off-Roading”……What is That……Exactly?……..

April 2, 2017

“Off Roading”…..What is That….Exactly……?

When I was buying my Forester, the dealers that I talked to really emphasized the fact that it was a great “off-roader”. Each time this came up…….and it came up often….I assured them that I would not be doing any “off-roading”. Truth be told, I don’t really even know what that means. I was buying the car because the seating position was so comfortable. Not only could I adjust the seat a million different ways, I would also be able to sit high up off the ground and be able to see really well out of the massive windows. I stand firm on my reasoning. But, today, I got a sense of the value of having a car that can go, literally, anywhere.

I started out this morning ready to explore the Summit Road wine region! I got in my trusty Forester, engaged the GPS system and took off. Down the highway I went, once again relishing in the comfort features of the car. When I got close to the Summit Road area, the nice GPS woman spoke to me and told me to get off the highway at the next exit, which I did. Then, as soon as I left the highway, she said that I needed to make a sharp left turn. I missed it. UGHHHH…….

I thought, “No worries. I’m sure it will recalculate.” And, it did!

I was happily listening to my free Siruis radio and following the guide when I realized that I was off the main road and really had no idea where I was. I kept on going, following the directions because….I really had no idea where I was. So, I thought it best to follow the GPS. It must know what it’s doing. Right?!

All of a sudden, I realized that I was driving down a single lane dirt road. The road was lined with giant trees…..maybe redwoods…..whose branches had created an arch across the road as far as I could see.   As I went along through the center of the arch, I realized that the road was becoming quite narrow. It was also getting pretty dark underneath the arch. I looked at the GPS on the dashboard where it was counting down the miles to my destination. It was still counting, so I figured I was still OK.

I thought about a conversation in regards to the Forester that I had with my friend, Nancy.

She said, “You could flip the back seats down and sleep in the back if you wanted to. Isn’t that great?!”

I wondered if, later,  I would have an opportunity to test this out, as I continued to creep along on the unfamiliar road.

But, still I kept on going. Honestly, what else could I do?

It reminded me of my trip to France a few years back when I rented a car to go to Les Baux from Aix en Provence. Near Les Baux, the GPS led me off the main road into a field where I landed in front of a herd of donkeys that had the biggest heads I have ever seen! It was shocking! This was kind of like that, but without the donkeys.

Anyway, I digress…..it was becoming a bit of a challenging drive, so I slowed down to a crawl. As I looked ahead, I saw some small tree limbs across the road.

Oh boy………..

I stopped and assessed my surroundings….even thought of turning around and trying to go back. But, how, exactly, would I do that on this tiny, narrow tree lined road? I couldn’t turn around, and I didn’t want to back up the whole way  to the main road. The back up camera is good, but it was a long way back. So, I looked at the tree limb, thought about the “off-roading” capabilities of the grand Subaru Forester and just kept on going right over the small tree limb. Then, I did it again a little further down the road. WOW!

When I did the paperwork with the man at the dealership, we went over a form whose purpose it was to inform Forester owners that they should never put chains on their tires. The man I was dealing with said to me,

“The Forester will go anywhere. If you think you need to use chains to go somewhere, you shouldn’t be going. Stay home.”

He wasn’t kidding when he said this thing would go anywhere. I have never driven a car that could go over a small tree limb. It was pretty small…..but, still….a tree limb! I don’t want to do it again, but I could!   Another of the virtues of the Forester that I have discovered on my new car “bonding” adventure!

You will be happy to know that I did get to the tasting room I was looking for, (the GPS was right on. How does it do that?) only to find that the tasting room was closed on Friday.

Really?!  After all that?!

It turns out that Friday is not a great day for wine tasting in the Santa Cruz Mountains. It’s a weekday. Many of the smaller, more interesting tasting rooms are only open on the weekend. Oh well……

The story for the day is the mighty Forester that can climb over a small tree limb and live to tell about it another day. I’m so impressed! No kidding!

So, I am officially checking “off-roading” off of my list of things to do before I die. (Not that it was on my list to begin with.  But, why not?) Since I really don’t know what that means, I am counting this experience as “off-roading”. It’s the closet I will ever get. This is a fact………

Who knew that would be an “off-roader”!  Maybe I could add an acronym to the end of my name to highlight my expertise.   Betsy, “O-R Expert”….or some such thing……

Hmmmm………I’ll have to give this some serious thought…….!

 

 

 

 

 

Ahhh…….the Smell of a New Car……..

March 31, 2017

Ahh……the Smell of a New Car……

….well… almost 9 years, 150,000 miles and a few dents and dings later (for both of us), I am parting ways with my Honda Civic Hybrid. I can’t believe it. We have been together a long time and have been through a lot since coming to California.   It’s been a good run…….But….it’s time…..

It’s been….well….about 9 years….since I have searched for a new car…..or, frankly, even thought about a new car. I had to jump start my brain a little bit to remember how to sort through the myriad of options to find the best selection for me from the multitude of cars that are on the market.  I read all of the reviews….Consumer Reports, Edumunds, Kelly Blue Book, J. D Power….on and on it went.  I had forgotten how maddening….and exhilarating….the whole process could be!  Whew! But, finally, I landed on a Subaru Forester.

It had everything I wanted….the perfect seating position with lumbar support, extra space to carry things, all the bells and whistles, and a seat height that is even with my butt when I am entering the car….no more crouching to get in…..just an easy slide……..Great!

I was ready to make a change in cars, but I have to say that it’s been a bit of an emotional ride. The Honda is the first thing of substance…..after the house, of course…..that I purchased here in California. It has been part of my support system here….a friend of sorts.  The thought of parting with it brought tears to my eyes. And, yesterday after I took it in for it’s last service, I almost wept.   My grief over selling the Honda was compounded by the weight of the very challenging decision about what kind of car “fits” my lifestyle now, the outlay of money for such car, and some unnecessary sarcasm from a friend about my choice. The whole thing left me with a rather poignant and stressful week that ended in a bout of “Buyers’ Remorse”…. the likes of which I have never seen.

I wanted to love this car!  I needed to take action! So, I decided that I would take the car on a ”Road Trip”! Perfect! A little “bonding” is what I need! What better way to put the Forester to the test and get to know it’s many attributes?!

This afternoon, I “bonded” with my Forester on my trek to Los Gatos, deep in the heart of the Santa Cruz Mountains. I only have one full day here, but I plan to make the most of it!

I decided to stay at The Los Gatos Hotel.

It’s an old historic hotel close to the center of town. I visited the hotel just to look around when I first came to California. Ever since then, I have wanted to stay here. However, now that my dream has been realized, I’m not sure what the attraction was. I’ll just say that it has “Old World” charm. It’s a little dated and could use a little buffing up. But, it will suffice for my short jaunt. And, the staff members I have met so far have been very nice and helpful.

I have also wanted to explore the wine region here, which is known for yummy Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. This will be part of my “bonding” exercise.  I have already been to visit Testarossa.

They had some excellent Pinot Noirs, my favorites coming from Doctor’s Vineyard in the Santa Lucia Highlands and the Sierra Madre in the Santa Maria Valley.

This place has a great story! It was started in the late 1800s by a group of Jesuit brothers and fathers from Santa Clara College. They planted the vineyards, tended them and did all of the winemaking and sales. There were some great vintage pictures of the brothers on the walls of the long hallway leading to the tasting room.  Over the years, the operation was sold and the vineyards went into disrepair despite the best efforts of the new owners to keep it up. So, there are no longer grapes growing in the old vineyards. Now, the grapes are purchased from all over the area and are made into some very fine wines. Biz, the tasting room attendant, told me that some of the aging Jesuits who worked in the winery still live on site and come to the tasting room periodically. Some of them are 100 years old. I’ll bet they have some interesting stories to tell!

I finished my day with dinner at “Nick’s Next Door”, a recommendation from the people at Testarossa. It was a great choice out of the many good restaurants here.

The friendly staff helped me to craft a plan for my day tomorrow.  I am going to the Summit area, where there are several wineries with outstanding views and tasty wine.  Tomorrow is supposed to be a clear day.  So, it should be perfect for viewing the surrounding area.

I also spent a little bit of time walking around in the downtown area to walk off my dinner. The town reminds me a lot of San Luis Obispo, only bigger. There are lots of quaint shops mixed in with some newer stores…and lots of restaurants. It’s cute!

It was a great day! I’m feeling happy, and the “Buyer’s Remorse” is gone! After my 3-hour ride to get here, I realize that the Forester is everything I want it to be and more. And, how could one not love the “new car smell”?!

The road trip was a great idea! But, now I have something else to think about.  How will my new car fare for the night in the underground garage at the hotel? I hope it will be there in the morning….just where I left it….and that it is ding free when I retrieve it.

Parking is a little  tight in the underground garage……

The first ding is always the worst…….

Where in the World…..

January 24, 2017

Where in the world……is my luggage?

I am in San Miguel de Allende……

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….came yesterday. My luggage is……well……I haven’t a clue and neither does “Volaris” airlines, my airline of choice for this trip. They think it might be in Los Angeles. But, I think it is in a big black hole with all of the lone socks that I can’t find!

Volaris Airlines…..I got a great deal on their nonstop flight from Los Angeles to Leon….$240.00 and some change. Such a deal! But, about $100 plus later for new toiletries, hat, hair brush, underwear, t-shirt to sleep in and mounting international cell minutes spent to discuss my plight with the airline, it wasn’t as good of a deal as I thought.   The very rude and highly disorganized airline staff tempted me to think I might get my luggage tonight. And, silly me, I thought it could happen. But, after my last call with them, I now see that my big challenges on this trip will be to see how many different ways I can mix and match the few pieces of clothing I happened to pack in my small carry on bag and to stay positive about being on vacation for a week without my things. So far, so good, but the week is young.

Today, my 2 travel buddies and I spent part of the day trying to figure out what the Spanish word for underwear might be and the rest of the day searching for it.  Not easy. But, we did find some. I decided to pass on the red bikinis with the cute bow on them (too frilly) and the children’s underwear with “Hello Kitty” (that I possibly could have fit into) and the thongs (too stringy) to get 2 pair of Plain Jane panties that will probably do just fine, but are not very attractive and may not fit. Tomorrow, I am on the lookout for a few tops that I can interchange with my stylish bottoms and some mascara that won’t make my eyes itchy. Wish me luck!

On the up side, the weather here in San Miguel is great. It’s bright and sunny….not too hot….not too cold….and no rain, a plus for those of living on the California central coast right now.

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The house we are renting is spectacular and in a good location a few blocks from the center of town. The house has a contemporary look with 3 levels and high ceilings. The stairs to the right of the picture lead to my little apartment.

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My 2 travel buddies have their own rooms and baths that walk out into small living rooms.

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We have a kitchen where we can cook meals if we like or ask our housekeeper to cook for us.  I’m not sure how much cooking we will get into, as the restaurants in town are quite good and also inexpensive.

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Both of the bedrooms have small balconies that open out to look below at a small relaxation fountain and a hot tub.

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We even have a rooftop terrace where we can sit and look at the beautiful city while we sip our wine and unwind from our busy days.

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Wonderful!

The town of San Miguel is just as I remembered. The main square is the center of town and is anchored on one end with the “Parrochia” (church). The sides of the square are lined with restaurants, a myriad of fun shops selling just about everything one can imagine and galleries with all types of interesting art in all kinds of different forms.   The streets beyond the square are filled with more of the same.   The food is good and the Margaritas are even better!

Somewhere along the way, we ran into this fella’…..kind of creepy after a few drinks. But, still fun!

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As I remembered from my last visit, the streets all around town are mostly cobbled, making the walking somewhat challenging. Without some good shoes, one could turn an ankle or rub some blisters. Luckily, my best walking shoes were also tucked into my carry on bag. So, I may not be the best-dressed visitor to San Miguel, but my feet….and back…..will be happy….a plus in the whole luggage debacle!

All in all, I think it will be a fun and relaxing week for the 3 of us…and, a great birthday celebration for my travel pal!

I am now getting ready to turn in for the night. As I look down at my new t-shirt that is decorated with a jeweled owl and the words “Love Owl” written along the side, I sigh, and wonder again…..

……where in the world is my luggage?……and I think about my next Margarita…….

 

 

Nasca…..a Different Kind of Line…..

September 30, 2016

Nasca….a Different Kind of Line…….

A few posts ago, I talked about Machu Picchu and waiting in the lines there. On my last days in Peru, I decided to take a few extra days after Jody and the rest of my group departed to visit the Nasca Lines….these are lines of a different kind. They are not the type of lines that have people waiting in them, but lines cleared from the rubble in the desert by the Nasca people…..that have stories waiting in them! This is my kind of line……..

I have to say that I really questioned the wisdom of taking the bus ride that was 8 hours one-way from Lima to Nasca…..

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……to view his phenomenon after the many days we had during the group tour of sitting on the bus. Did I really want to spend more time on the bus? Not really. But, I had already paid for the tour, and frugal traveler that I am, I didn’t want to lose the money I had prepaid to Great Nasca Tours for the trip. So, a few days before the end of my Peruvian experience, I went to the lobby of the hotel at 7:30 am and met Annabel, who would drive me to the bus station for my last 2 bus rides of the trip! As usual, I’m glad I went!

First, here’s the bus.

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It was like riding in first class on the airplane…..big, cushy seats, my own TV screen for private viewing of current movies, TV shows and videos. And, they even gave me a small lunch and a drink. What’s not to like?!

On the way, I made one small detour in Ica, land of Peruvian wine and Pisco…..and giant sand dunes……

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My new friend, Diego, who was my guide in Ica, wondered if I wanted to do some “sand boarding” on the dunes. Apparently, that’s what people do here. They get boards, like one would use for “boogie boarding” in the water, climb to the top of the dunes and slide down. Adventurous as I am, I decided that in the interest of time and my aging body, I would pass on this activity. But, it did look like fun!

Then, we headed out for lunch at a local winery…..

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….before doing a tour and some actual wine tasting at “Tacama”, the oldest winery in Peru and, per the guide, the oldest winery in South America.

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Peru is not known for their wine, although I did have some good Peruvian Cabernet Sauvignon during the course of the trip. Peru’s claim to fame is it’s “Pisco”, which is a kind of wine made with grapes that have gone through a distillation process.   It’s the Peruvian equivalent of “Cognac”. I liked it. But, It was quite strong at between 38-45 proof, depending on the type. YIKES! At Tacama, I had the opportunity to try both.

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I liked the “Pisco”, but, frankly, I have had better wine. The wine was either bitter or sweet. We also had some whites and a sparkling wine that had been made with Petit Verdot, which was also not my favorite.

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They had odd combinations on the whites like Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Roussanne together in one blend….very strange…..and, not very good. On the up side, I did get a very interesting tour that included an informative video explaining the industry in general and the specifics of “Tacama”, how the wines were made, and a walk through the production facility, complete with lighted color coding to point out the white and red production areas.

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No surprises here. Winemaking is made the same wherever you go.

I parted ways with Diego around 6:00 pm and made my way to Nasca. Here’s where the story really begins.

The Nasca Lines are a series of lines and figures that appear on the surface of the desert. Some of the lines are just that….lines, but with some meaning. But, others are geometric figures and representations of people, animals, birds, etc. that had significance in the ancient cultures of Peru. The figures are huge. Some of the figures are miles long and wide. The lines intersect and connect in all sorts of ways through and around the figures. It was interesting to see.

There is a lot of conjecture about how these figures got there. Some people believe that aliens came from outer space and created these designs. I heard this version quite a few times. Really?! I don’t think so….and, neither do the experts who have studied these figures. The most likely explanation is that the Nasca people did this in an effort to honor and please the gods of water.

Nasca is a desert climate and water is now, and was likely, in ancient times, a real problem. The water that was available either came from the sky or the ocean in the way of natural underground wells. There wasn’t much coming from either source.  The people living in the desert needed water to be able to grow crops and to drink. So, of course, in their superstitious minds, they thought….we’ll just build some icons to the gods and, if we are good, they will give us the water we need. Silly, but this is how these ancient cultures thought. So, they furiously worked to create these figures and inserted a few temples here and there where they could leave offerings to the gods and worship them.

There is still much debate on the significance of the actual figures that were represented. But, most people agree with Maria Reiche, a German mathmetician, who dedicated her life to uncovering and deciphering these lines and figures. She deduced that many of the figures were based on the constellations that the people could view in the sky at night. She also concluded that the lines and geometric figures were likely related to the direction and location of the water and the position of the sun in the summer and winter solstices. Maria found in her many calculations that many of the lines point directly to the position of the sun in these times of the year. It’s quite fascinating.

It all boils down to a group of people trying to stay alive in a difficult climate and living condition by creating a series of icons to honor and please a group of gods that they believed could help them.  Talk about living on the edge!

The lines and figures were created basically by clearing rubble from the desert floor. Again, I am in absolute awe of the diligence of these people to create something like this.  The sand underneath the rubble is lighter than the rubble, so when the rubble is cleared, it looks as if someone took a chisel and etched the lines on the surface of the desert. The lines and figures can’t be seen from the ground, only from the air. I also read that they could be seen from the surrounding mountains, but one needs to get high enough to be able to look down on them.

Most people view these lines from the air in a small plane, which is what I did. This was quite an adventure. I read many of the reviews of this experience on Trip Advisor before I attempted this. A lot of them said that they got on the small plane and got motion sickness.  They liked it, but warned readers not to eat before getting in then small plane and  to be prepared to throw up. Hmmmmm…….I also enlisted some thoughts from a Lantam Airline pilot I met in a restaurant in Lima about what this experience might be like. The pilot, who was French, gave me the pouty French lip stare when I told him I was going to do this. He said,

“Don’t take the 4-seater plane. They have others that seat 10-15. Take one of those.  And, by the way, there have been lots of accidents reported in the last few years.”

OK.  Good to know…..

Oscar, my Nasca guide, also told me not to eat before I go and to be ready to throw up.

So, after all of this helpful information,  you can imagine my anxiety….and my surprise when I got in the air and realized that I wasn’t going to get sick, but was going to get an amazing experience! I loved it!

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There were 2 pilots on board that guided the plane and pointed out the figures.

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It was fascinating. From our position in the air, the figures looked like small drawings. I was able to see all of them and get some great pictures of a few of them with my iPhone camera.

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In the evening, I attended a presentation in a small planetarium behind the hotel where I was staying that was set up in honor of Maria Reiche. As it turns out, she lived in the hotel for free until the end of her life. She had dedicated her life to restoring the lines and had no money even for a living space. The owners of the hotel were more than happy to give her room and board in exchange for having preserved this part of the history of Peru. The presentation gave a little more information about the lines, their discovery and the theories behind them. After the lecture, we went outside with the speaker and used his telescope to view some of the stars and constellations that were represented in the lines.   It was very enlightening and a great way to end my time in Peru!

So, now I have come to the end of the lines……all of them…..the people lines and the story lines…..I have gotten an amazing view of a culture and land that is very different from mine.  And, the stories…..well……. they have been amazing!

I’m ready now to get back home and back into my “normal” routine.  But, it won’t be long before I am ready to line up again for another adventure…..and a few more stories!

Until next time……

 

 

 

 

“Bleary Eyed” and……..well………

September 8, 2016

Not quite as “Bushy Tailed” as I had anticipated I would be…..

But, feeling good…and excited…..as I embark on my travels to Peru….via Miami!   I will feel even better and more excited when I feel more awake……zzzzzz…..

I knew that I would have a long travel day on Monday with a stop in LA and then in Houston before reaching my final destination of Miami. So, to save my sanity….and my patience…….for the travel day, I cleared my schedule for the week or so before the trip so as not to wind myself up like a top at the last minute trying to get everything done. As the week progressed, despite my best efforts, I found myself spinning as, day by day, a myriad of unexpected events continued to put me a day behind.   On the last day before my trip I found myself much more engaged with last minute details than I wanted to be.   So, after one super busy day and a few sleepless nights, I donned my “sensible shoes”…..

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……..and made my way to the airport for my flight. It was, as is usually the case these days, a challenging travel day that was underscored by a delightful seat a few rows up from the bathroom (phew) one seatmate that was expelling gas at the speed of light (double phew) and two delays. At midnight, I finally arrived at the airport in Miami, collected my luggage, and made my way to the hotel. What a day…but, I made it!

As always, the preparation for the trip was almost as interesting as the trip itself. And, as always, I learned a few things along the way.

First, I realized that we were again going to a place with a large percentage of the world’s mosquitos. And, now, of course, we also have the related problem of Zika. Here’s the joy of doing 2 South American trips in 1 year. I have all of the mosquito bite preventative tools that one could possibly want or need….Deet to carry along in my bag and Prometherin to spray on my clothing pre-trip. Believe me, before I left I sprayed the living daylights out of my convertible pants, “moisture wicking” shirts and socks. Just as I did for my trip to the Galapagos, I lined them all up like soldiers on the fence in my backyard and let loose. So, I dare the mosquitoes to get through all of that! I guess it could happen, but they will need to be persistent to penetrate that kind of armor!

As I mentioned in my Galapagos posts, I am not really an outdoorsy kind of gal. After my last trip, I felt pretty prepared for all types of outdoorsy issues. But, just to be on the safe side, I decided to, once again, seek out the advice of the friendly people at the Mountain Air Store in San Luis Obispo to point me in the right direction of “must have” items for a trip to Peru. The friendly girl, who now knows me be name, and who, by the way, has been to Peru, confirmed that I had all of the necessary basics.

“But”, she said, “Have you considered your underpants?” What?! Of course I have considered my underpants. I’m taking them. I never go without underpants.

“No…..no”, she said. “Not just any underpants. Have you considered the ones for travel that are moisture wicking and odor absorbing?  They are great! And, they can be washed in the sink of your hotel room.”

“Wouldn’t it be nice, “ she said, “to take only 2 pair of underpants and just wash them each day? They dry in about 10 minutes. I have used them on all of my trips. But now, I just wear them all the time because they are so comfortable.”

Hmmm…….I gave this some serious thought and came to the conclusion that she could be right. This was a great concept! So, $35.00 later, I was the proud owner of 2 pairs of travel underpants. I wore some of them today in Miami where the heat and humidity closely resembled that of my trip to Costa Rica. Whew!! There’s really no reason to take a shower or do your hair here. As soon as you step out into the humidity, you are drenched and stinky. Just like in Costa Rica!

I will say that by the end of the day of walking all over Miami and Fort Lauderdale, my underpants were soaking wet. They were so wet, that I was wondering if I had a “tinkling” accident (I didn’t…..at least I don’t think I did!) But, true to the word of the sales girl, when I took them off and hung them up in the room, they dried in about 10 minutes and when I sniffed them, I didn’t detect any stinky stuff. I’ll let you know how they do in the bathroom sink washing machine as I get into the trip. It didn’t occur to me that I could try this out in my Miami hotel room before I left. Oh well….didn’t think of it. Also, I am not out of underwear yet.  (Always prepared, I do have other underpants just in case these little gems don’t work.) The only downside of these underpants that I can see so far is that they were a little bit….well, more than a little bit…… too big for me, even thought I got the smallest size they had. I could practically pull them all the way up to my neck. Good thing I was wearing a skirt. No panty lines! And, there is little chance of someone giving me a wedgy. I doubt that someone could pull them up far enough to achieve that. HA!

I also decided that I was no longer going to carry my huge perfume container along as I usually do. Would I really need perfume in the wilds of Peru? Probably not, but you never know. So, I learned from my friends at Sephora that I could buy a small, refillable container that would certainly be enough for what I was doing. (You would think I would have figured that out by now.) Great!

I am also packing light….one suitcase and a small backpack. So, my travel mates will see me in the same clothing time after time. I understand it’s easy to get the hotels in Peru to wash your clothes…..and, I hear that it’s cheap! I hope so. Otherwise, by the end of the trip, I will be quite ripe! I’ll try to give you a heads up on this so that you can run the other way when you see me coming!

I have also decided that sensible shoes are the way to go. I have 2 pairs of shoes that will have to do the trick for any outfit. I don’t think that will be a problem, as I only have one type of outfit…..casual.

Well, I have finally gotten a good night’s sleep and I’m feeling a bit more awake and the bubble that I have been walking around in is starting to dissipate. I’m so grateful.

Bright-eyed and bushy tailed…..well, getting there anyway….. traveler signing off from Miami……

 

 

 

 

The First Leg of the Last Leg of My Journey…..

February 20, 2015

Well, I am about halfway through the first leg of the second leg of my six-months of travel. I can hardly believe it! In some ways, it seems like I just started out!  But, two mornings ago, I boarded a plane in Buenos Aires at 8:00 am (was up at 4:00 am) to head for San Jose, Costa Rica, the last chunk of my journey. Lee has left me to go back to work…..party pooper….But, I am meeting another friend, Jody, in Costa Rica. She’s a lot of fun, too. So, I’m sure I will have a few more fun tales to tell you about! Stay tuned.

But, before I move on, I wanted to do a round up of this leg of the journey before I got off to the next! We saw, heard, and did a few fun things that just didn’t fit into any of the posts. But, I really wanted to share them because they were unique…and fun, of course! So, here goes!

At our “closed-door” dinner in Buenos Aires at the beginning of the trip, we learned from our chef that Argentina has a shortage of iPhones and tampons. I bet you are wondering how that little gem came up in casual conversation. Honestly, I can’t remember, but Lee and I (and the others at the table) got a real chuckle out of this. I think the chef was kidding….or not….when he told us we could make some good money selling tampons on the “black market”. Lee and I considered looking into this and went to some stores to do some “market research”. We found that, indeed, there were very few tampons in any of the stores. And, you could only buy 2 packs of 8 tampons at a time. The clerk also kept a list of the sales whenever someone made a purchase. There were lots of pads, which made no sense to us. Don’t the pads use more material? Why wouldn’t those be limited instead? HMMMM… Anyway, if anyone wants to start a business in Buenos Aires let me know. This could be your chance to make it big! HA!

As we were researching the trip, Lee and I both read about the love that the Argentinians have for their dogs. We were told over and over again in the tour books about all of the doggie doo doo we would see in Buenos Aires. We did see some, but, frankly, not as much as I saw in France. What we did see were dog walkers taking the dogs on their constitutionals tethered together on leashes with multiple hooks. It was quite funny to see. When we were on a tour bus on one of stops, we went by one such group. The bus driver stopped and the dog walker lined all the dogs up facing us so that we could get a good picture of this phenomenon. It was a stitch. Here they all are posing for the cameras!

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On one of our first days in Buenos Aires, I told you that Lee and I walked to the center of the city to view the area of all of the governmental buildings. There was a small market going on there (in addition to the protests I told you about in a prior post).  Odd combination! By now, I have gone to just about every market in every town that I have visited. And, believe me, I thought I had seen just about everything. But, no. There in the middle of town was a display of electric current converters….just in case you need to plug something in right there in the center of the city! Really?!

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When we visited the Recolletta cemetery in the first day of our trip, Lee and I looked high and low for a marker that said “Conesa”. She thought that some of her ancestors may have lived in Buenos Aires …….and, consequently, died there. Sadly, we were not able to find one. However, when reviewing the map at the end of one of the days, Lee saw a street that bore her name….very exciting! We decided that we would visit the street the next day and get a picture. After all, it’s not every day that you see a street that bears your name! As she continued to review the map, guess what she found…..a street right next to “Conesa Street” that was called “Cramer”…..Mike’s last name. We could hardly believe it. Conesa and Cramer right next to each other! It’s a sign…..I’m not sure what it’s a sign of, but it’s a sign….literally…..

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Here’s the last one….when we visited the Falkland Islands, we went out to “Gypsy Cove” to look at the penguins (I told you that story.) I mentioned that the Falklands is a British holding now. But, it had been an Argentinian holding as well. Long story short…….there was a great “war” and now it’s owned by the British. When we exited the bus at this nature reserve what did we find, but a facility for the British to have tea when they were done viewing the Penguins. Spot of tea anyone?

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OK….done…..Now that I have this out of my system, in my next post, I can begin to tell you some things about my experiences with Jody in our first days in Costa Rica. Here’s’ what I can tell you so far. We are permanently drenched in sweat. I’m not kidding. It’s as “hot as the hinges of Haiti” here (as my mother would say).  And, the next days look the same! When we came back from exploring Quepos today, I was soaking wet and have never smelled so bad. But, hours after the end of our day, I am sitting on the little deck at our apartment and have still not showered. I can literally scrape the dried sweat that is mixed with the three rounds of sunscreen I applied today from every part of my body. I am starting to think that there is really no point in showering. Maybe I will just wait until I am ready to go home….or maybe not if I want to continue my friendship with Jody! HA!

My thought for this fine evening is this……hydrate, hydrate, hydrate and throw in a shower every now and then!

Joyeux Noel….Bonne Fête…..Merry Christmas….

December 25, 2014

to all…… and to all a good night!

It’s Christmas night here in Strasbourg, France the last stopover as we make our way back to Paris for the journey home.  I had heard from some of my new-found friends in Aix en Provence that if you really want to do it up right for Christmas, Strasbourg is the place to be!  They weren’t kidding!  I can’t think of anywhere I have visited that has more Christmas ambiance and spirit than Strasbourg, the home of gingerbread-style houses and Christmas markets!

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Strasbourg is a fairly large city in the heart of the Alsace section of France on the German border.  Over the years, the Alsace has been an area claimed by both Germany and France.  (Right now it’s France.)  Therefore, you get a nice little mix of both when you are anywhere in the area.

The architecture in Strasbourg is very much like many of the German towns we have visited over the years.  The streets in the old section, where we spent most of our time, are lined with buildings that look like old wooden chalets…or gingerbread houses…whichever you prefer!

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The food has a lot of influence from the German culture, as evidenced by the meal we had on our first night here.  Mike had a mound of sauerkraut with sausages and different kinds of hams.  I had “coq au reisling”, chicken braised in reisling wine.  And, I had my fill of the big, fat doughy pretzels that I love so much.  (The pretzel bar is always my first stop in Germany, Switzerland, and other places that are German-like!)  But, there is a French influence as well, as evidenced by the meal we had today, on Christmas.  It was very elegant and very nicely presented.  There’s something for everyone here!

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This region has a cooler climate and it’s quite cold here now. (We are now the proud owners of two new pairs of gloves!) The wines here are what you would expect for a cooler climate.  We have had nice reislings, pinot gris, gewürztraminers, and pinot noirs.  All were quite tasty.

Food and wine aside, though, the draw here at Christmas is the Christmas markets.  I have seen these all over France since about the middle of November.  But, none of them can touch the grandeur of those here in Strasbourg.  There are ten markets in all in different parts of the city and each one is a little different.  They are themed differently and, therefore, decorated differently.  And, they sell different things.  The areas of the city surrounding each market are also decorated to compliment the style of the market.  Suffice to say if you don’t find what you want here, it doesn’t exist!  Truth be told, we didn’t make it to all the markets….I think we hit about five.  That was enough for me.  But, it was quite a Christmas spectacular that I am glad to have been a part of.

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I did see some fun Christmas things in other places I visited as well.  So, I thought I would include some pictures of Christmas in France!  I hope you enjoy them!  I certainly enjoyed enjoyed getting them!

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This is one of my favorite photos, probably because it was fun to get.  It’s also cute. I engaged (en français) a man who was walking with a dog that was dressed in Santa Claus garb, to ask if I could take a picture of the dog.  He was thrilled!  He spoke to the dog in French and asked him to sit and “regardez la Madame” (look at the woman)….and, he did!

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The fun of getting this photograph made me think again of something important that I have thought about over and over again on this trip. (Not every day was as exciting as I would like you to think.) Some simple joys of life can be gleaned even from the small things that cross your path each day, even on the days when those things are hard to find.  Sometimes we just need to look for them!

So, as Christmas Day 2014 comes to a close here in France, I would like to wish you all the best for the holiday and for 2015!

Going forward,  I plan to make the most of each day and find the joy in each moment.  I hope you will do the same!

PAUL BOCUSE LIVES ON….IN LYON…..

December 24, 2014

A number of years ago, I traveled to Paris with my sister and her family. I was between jobs and they needed someone to fill in a space to make a double in one of the rooms. Aside of the fact that, even then, I was a fun traveler….HA!……there was an issue of cost. It’s always more expensive to have someone in a single room. It’s always better to share the cost with another person. So, I agreed to go along, on the condition that my sister would be OK with me leaving the group from time to time to have an adventure or two on my own.   Seemed OK to them, so I signed up. It was a fun trip that was highlighted by a solo adventure by train from Paris to Lyon for lunch at the Paul Bocuse restaurant.

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The story is a good one and, if you are interested in hearing it, give me a call. I love sharing it! It always makes me smile! Suffice to say that I had the greatest meal I had ever had to that point….and….I met Paul Bocuse himself. He gave me a great big kiss on the lips, put his arm around me and, under the restaurant sign, happily posed for a picture with me…..which I still have. I was reminded again of this story as we left Lyon today on our way to Strasbourg for Christmas. As the train pulled away, I looked up and out the window and what did I see but the very restaurant where I had that experience all those years ago. It was a fun “déjà vous” !

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Paul Bocuse, for those of you who may not know, is a famous chef who made a name for himself, and a little bit of money I’m guessing, with his Lyon based Michelin rated restaurant and the “brasseries” that followed. Actually, he was one of the pioneers, along with Julia Child, who introduced us Americans to the finer points of eating…. and French food. He helped to carve out a place for “fine dining” all over the world.

Paul is an institution in Lyon as is evidenced by the above-mentioned restaurant and brasseries, a cooking school and the multiple and many references to him throughout the city. I think there is also a connection to him with the small restaurants, called “bouchons” that serve “typical Lyonnaise” food.” It appears that in order to be called a “bouchon”, one must have a certificate of authenticity. I’m guessing that Paul Bocuse had a hand in this one, too!

Lyon is a place for good eating, and I have to say that we easily followed this path during our visit there. We did make it around to one of the four Paul Bocuse “brasseries”, to one of the most traditional “ bouchons”….and to one that was not so traditional…..and we had dinner at the restaurant of the arch enemy of Paul Bocuse, Georges Blanc. (This felt very sinister and a little disloyal…..but, the food was really good!) Wrap that up with a couple of visits to some “patissiers” and the Christmas market where we had sauerkraut with sausage, potatoes in a cream and chive sauce and some “vin chaud” (hot wine), and I would say that we have been, as Mike says, “diabolically saracified”.

My tummy is full of this yummy food!

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You will be happy to know that we did more than just eat. I know it’s hard to believe. But, Lyon is also a fantastic city in many other ways as well. The views and the skylines are lovely, the shopping is great and here, as in many of the places I have visited on this trip, one is compelled to just wander through the city and look. And, being here at Christmas is very special. One can really feel the excitement of the holiday with the decorations, lights and festive spirit of the people! I loved it!

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I spent a fair amount of time wandering through the Bellecour section of the city, which is where we stayed in our hotel that overlooked the Rhone River. According to the taxi driver that brought us in from the train station, this is the best positioned area of the city…..right in the middle of everything. We were on Presqu’ile, a piece of land reminiscent of an island, between the Rhone River and the Saone River. The driver was right, it was a great location….easy to walk to many of the main sites of the city…..and to the best restaurants!

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I was ready to have a first class hotel experience, and, so we did this at the Sofitel, another hotel offered by the Accor Hotel chain that I told you about in the last post. It’s on the other end of the ambiance scale from the Ibis Styles. I loved them both, but they were very different. We had a little bit of pampering and a great view!

In our Bellecour section there was a lot of high end shopping and eating. We bought a few things, not many. Mostly, just “leche-vitrine” (window shopping) and walked. It was fun!

On one of the days, I wandered over the bridge crossing the Saone River and explored “Vielle Lyon” (old Lyon). It was different from the Bellecour section with old buildings and tiny, narrow streets lined with shops, cafés and restaurants. Lyon is also known for overhangs that connect the old buildings together. There were a number of these in the older section that were interesting to explore.

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On our last day, I convinced Mike that he should go with me to visit the old church on the top of the hill beyond the Saone River. It was the coldest day we had in Lyon. I don’t know what the temperature was, but we were both formed into a block of ice when we got back the hotel room. (I’m still thawing out!)

We climbed up the hill to the church by “funicular”. Not only was the view spectacular, but the church was also quite grand and on par with many of the larger old churches I have seen on this trip. It was well worth the visit.

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So, “that’s about all folks” on the visit to Lyon. I liked it so much that I may go back next year in the fall for some more French classes and maybe some cooking classes. There is a “Paul Bocuse Cooking Institute” near the hotel where we stayed.

I have checked it out, and I’m sure they will be willing to accept me should I dare to do this. I feel the need to support the mission of Paul Bocuse for fine and elegant dining. And, what better way to further my prowess with the french language.  After that, I will need to buy a new wardrobe to accommodate my new dress size. I think I can do that in Lyon, too.

Stay tuned!