Travel With Betsy

Christmas Pine Tree Ice Cream…….

And other French Canadian Culinary delights……

Last night, I had the best meal of my trip to “Nouvelle France” (aka, Montreal and Quebec City). I almost never get dessert when I am eating out. Especially, if I am alone. I can’t eat that much, and I am not really a sweet eater. But, my meal last night was so good, that when the waiter asked me if I would like to have dessert, I said,

“What are you recommending?

And

“Is this something that you like to eat?”

He recommended that I try the “poor man’s pudding”. It came with a dollop of home-made Christmas Tree ice cream.

I thought he was kidding.

“No”, he said. “I’m not kidding. The chef makes it with the pine needles that come from the Christmas Pine tree that grows in his back yard.”

I have been on a mission this year to learn perfect my skills in making home-made ice cream. I’ve done pretty well, as some of my “taster” friends will tell you. The secret is perfecting the base and getting it cold enough to freeze in the churn. In my testing, I have found that a cooked custard base is best. It makes a super rich and creamy ice cream. You can put any flavor you want with it and you will not be disappointed. The restaurant I chose for last night, “Rioux and Pettigrew”…..

…..follows the same path. And, as I learned last night, even the taste of pine works if you have a very good custard base.

I have to say that I was questioning my judgment about eating the essence of pine needles. Somehow, I had the idea that pine needles are poisonous. And, I thought about that a bit as I was eating this. But, it was just so darn good that I kept on eating. Being poisoned by pine sap might not be the best way to go. But, it wouldn’t be the worst way to go either…..especially with this intriguing and delicious flavor as my last memory.

Yum!

Anyway, the pudding was more like a brown sugar cake, if you can imagine it. It was topped with a stinky, runny cheese whose name I can’t tell you. But, it was like brie. On the side of this whole thing that had been warmed, was a dollop of Christmas Pine Tree ice cream. It was fantastic! And, it reminded me of Christmas…well, maybe I built that part up in my mind because of the name. But, it was good.

My meal was also fantastic! I had a pot-au-feu, a kind of beef stew.

This one was made with melt in your mouth beef cheeks and sweet roasted root vegetables all plated on the top of a mound of home-made mashed potatoes covered in a rich “au jus” that gave it a richness, depth and warmth that was perfect for a cold evening. I paired it with a St. Emillon blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and maybe something else, which I didn’t want to pay for. But, I wanted it. So, I got it. And, it was a great choice for pairing with this meal.

I was so taken by this meal, that I went back to the open-air kitchen to congratulate the chef. He was gone, but I found these two “sous chefs”…..

…..who probably did most of the cooking anyway, and praised them highly for their success in the kitchen. They asked me to put a review up on Trip Advisor, which I will do. The whole experience….the food, the wine, the wait staff and the “sous chefs” were absolutely outstanding.

My best food has been here in Quebec City. I found the food in Montreal to be average and expensive, although I did have some good meals. But, here, I have had some very creative and interesting food in small cafes right around the corner from my hotel.

Cafe St. Malo was another winner.

This small, French Bistro offered French country food at it’s best. It is a small restaurant with tables that are tightly fitted together like the pieces of a puzzle.

I had the traditional “Cassoulet” there, a stew of cannellini beans, “boudin” sausage and a duck leg, all of which had been simmered together in a chicken stock and tomato based broth…..It was fabulous and another kind of “comfort food” for a cold, wintery day.

Again, here, not only was the food good, but the atmosphere was spectacular. Because the tables were so close together, it made it easy for me to talk to my neighbors. We spent the evening chatting on about random things. It reminded me of a trip to Italy and another in Arles, France, years ago where I had a similar meal in a restaurant of about 6 tables. The sharing of stories, food and wine created experiences to remember. I will never forget them.  And, I will never forget my experience at the Malo Café.

Another highlight of my food extravaganzas here in Quebec was at a small bistro that had been recommended by two New Jersey boys that I met on my first day here. When I asked the server whether I should have the onion soup of the pea soup, which I also like and was the soup of the day, she, without hesitation, said,

“I would have the onion soup. Onion soup is a classic for a reason.”

So, I had onion soup.

But, it wasn’t just any onion soup. It was in a deconstructed style, with gruyere cheese topped toasted baguette pieces resting on long strips of carmelized onions that were also sprinkled with tiny cubes of gruyere. It was so pretty, that I hated to eat it. But, I ate it anyway. It was the richest, heartiest and most flavorful onion soup I have ever had.

And, of course, what’s not to like about the bouillabaisse I had one night, as well.

Quebec City, in every way, makes me feel like I am in France. The buildings, the people, the fashion, the language…and, now the food have all given me the “French fix” that I was looking for on this trip.

But….the food……ahhhhh……..

…….the food is the star. My tummy is full…..and happy..

I am writing this post, so I am happy to report that I did not succumb to the poison of the Christmas Pine Tree Ice Cream. I’m still here…..thinking about tonight’s food adventure, my last here in Canada. It will be hard to top what I have already done. But, I’m going to try.

Mmmmmmm……….

Or, at least that’s what “Google” said when I looked it up last night. There are 400 steps leading straight up off of Montreal’s Peel Street to the Chalet at Mont Royal, Montreal’s most famous mountain and park.

I climbed all 400 of them. And….I lived to tell about it another day.

Wow!

There was a day of balmy weather….42 degrees Farenheit….on about the 3^rd or 4^th day into my Montreal adventure. It was the warmest day so far, so I decided that it would be a great day to do something outside. I could walk around and actually feel warm. So, I decided that a hike up to and through this old landmark would be a great idea!

The concierge at my hotel gave me several options for approaching the park. But, thrill seeker that I am, I decided I should climb the steps. So, I walked up a steep grade from the Metro station through the campus of McGill College to the first set of steps and began to climb.

I didn’t actually know how many steps there were when I started this little jaunt. If I had, I may not have done this in fear that I would hurt my back…or have a heart attack….or something worse. I did give it a first thought, but not a second!

And, off I went!

Partway up as I was huffing and puffing, I did question the wisdom of this climb, though. So, I stopped, took a break and asked someone to take this picture.  (Still wearing the infamous hat!)

I was partway there. I couldn’t turn back now. And, I was comforted by the fact that the whole way up, I could see the hospital that was just below the steps. What great placement for a healthcare facility. I figured that if I had a heart attack or my back finally gave out, it wouldn’t be far for me to go for help.

Onward.

It was well worth the effort. The views of the city at the top were spectacular. It was a fairly bright and sunny day, so I could see all around and down to the city with some clarity.

Beautiful!

The “chalet” at the top had a little gift shop as well as a small snack bar on the side of an information station that explained a bit of the history of Mont Royal. Circling the station walls were a series of pictures that reflected the history.

Then, I learned about the “Cross of Mont Royal” from the woman running the gift shop. She encouraged me to visit….quinze minutes (15 minutes walking). I was there, so I took this walk, too.

And, then I decided to continue to follow the road, which made a large circle around the “chalet” and ended back at the same place I started. It was a little treacherous as there was a bit of snow and ice.

But, I made it. I am giving a shout out here to Born for making some of the best walking boots I have ever had.   They have a great tread, are warm and waterproof….at least I think they are. At any rate, my feet were dry, warm and comfortable all day long.

When I got back to the starting point, I was pooped! So, I got a “chocolat chaud” (hot chocolate) and a “cookie” (cookie)

and joined this tired fellow on the Adirondak chairs that faced out to the spectacular view.

What a day!

C’est tout….that’s all folks. At least on the walking portion of the day. Later in the evenig, I took in the sounds of Bach and Mozart at the “Place des Arts”, a performance of the annual Montreal Bach Fesitval. I heard a clarinetist whose melodious strains gave me goosebumps.

My senses were on overload!

I will end this post on a fitness note. My new iPhone says that I walked 11 miles on this day and took a total of 25,000 steps.

Really?!

Maybe someone can weigh in on this. Are the exercise meters on these phones accurate?

I find it hard to believe that I walked this much. But, I do know this. Between the yoga lessons and practice I have been doing and the climb up these stairs, my glutes are in the best shape of my life. Whatever fat was there, is no longer. And, my buns are as tight as drums. So are my calves….which I am not liking quite as much…..3 days later and I am still having trouble pointing my toes. Oh well……

No pain, no gain. Right now, I would put my shapely legs up against anyone’s anywhere..anytime!

The best part is that I can now justify all of the chocolate croissants I have been eating since I have been here. Oh, and the cheese….and, the chocolate……and the baguettes…..the butter……cream sauces….tonight’s dinner…

Which is where I will leave you…..thinking about my next meal….

Bon appétit!

“Who dat?”

Who, indeed…..

I hope I don’t offend anyone with my “slang”. I was so amused by my own strange and uncharacteristic look that I couldn’t resist asking the question, and the tone seemed appropriate. Honestly, I’m having a hard time recognizing myself on this trip…and, I know “who dat”! But, every time I see myself in a window or mirror, I am caught a little bit off guard and still wonder if I am looking at someone else. Maybe I am…..hmm…..a mystery…..

Most of the people who were aware that I was heading into this “arctic freeze” were aghast that I would expose myself to the short, cold days of northeastern Canada for some fun time away, when I could have gone somewhere that was warm and balmy. But, I really wanted some seasonal weather and the thought of possibly seeing some snow at the holiday seemed warm and comforting to me after my unsettling year. I learned years ago when I was frequenting Switzerland and Germany in the winter that cold is not as bad as one imagines if one is ready for it. The well-prepared traveler can stay quite warm, even in the coldest of climates if ready for them.

So, about a month before I set out, I began to make my plan. I purchased some warm wool sweaters and some layering turtlenecks, bought some boots and liberated my fur lined “shearling” jacket and gloves, that have protected me well from the elements in the past, from the scented bed of moth balls they were resting in for the last 10 years to get me ready for this chilling adventure.

I had a few glitches…always the case it seems……

For those of you who are unaware, the “shearling” jacket is made of suede and has a fur lining. Years ago when I was more into a mind set than I am today that everything I wore had to match exactly, I purchased some fur lined gloves of the same color suede as my jacket to wear along with it. If this combination won’t keep you warm, nothing will….and, it matches! I decided that in order to get rid of the “eau de mothball”, I decided I would need to get both the jacket and the gloves cleaned. They were both pretty stinky.

As I began to research how to get these pieces cleaned, I learned that a regular dry cleaning wouldn’t do the trick on these items. They needed to be sent to a dry cleaner that specializes in cleaning leather items. My local dry cleaner was happy to coordinate this with their contact in Los Angeles. So, about a month before I left for Montreal, I entrusted both pieces to my local dry cleaner.  I was assured that there would be plenty of time to get them to the leather cleaning service and back in time for my trip.

Great!

When I went back at the appointed time I found, much to my disappointment, that my jacket had come back, but not the gloves.   As it turns out, the driver of the delivery truck had the gloves with him, but forgot to leave them with the coat. When my local dry cleaner realized this, they called the leather cleaner and asked if they could overnight them, which seemed like a good plan that would still meet my time frame.

This, of course, did not happen.

So, I didn’t have my warm gloves to bring along. What I do have is a pair of very fine leather gloves that are lined with silk. They look nice. And, they are better than nothing, but not terribly warm. For 2 weeks in the cold, I wasn’t going to buy a new pair. I would just have to tough it out.

I also didn’t have a hat. I gave up all of my knitted winter hats a few years ago when I had a small moth issue and never replaced them. Why would I? I live in sunny California where the weather is fine all year long. Who needs a hat? For that matter, who can even find a hat to buy in sunny California?!

I couldn’t.

So, I came to Montreal without a hat.

This is a problem for maximizing body heat in cold weather, as most of the heat escapes through the head, accelerating the feeling of cold. So, on my first day out, I went up the street from my hotel and bought a touristy knit hat with a maple leaf on it. The maple leaf was understated….still there, though. But, the hat matched my coat somewhat and it was cheap……

……enough said.

Later in the day, though, as I was walking around Montreal and doing some shopping, I happened into the Canadian equivalent of Lord and Taylor. I thought I would just stop into the hat section and see what they had.   Right there before my very eyes was a suede hat in the same color of my jacket….and, it was lined with fur……just like my jacket.

I will digress here and say that I have been trying to improve my appearance over the last year and this hat was not doing much for me in the “fashionista” department. But, it matched my coat. When does that happen? So to make myself feel better, I sought the advice of 2 young French Canadian girls who were shopping in the hat section to see if they thought this hat was stylish.

They didn’t speak much English, but one of them had enough to say that she “loved the hat”…..and, it matched my coat!

“Right?!”, I said, “Isn’t that great?”

Still, I debated about this for awhile. Even on my way to the checkout to buy the hat, I engaged one of the clerks in the store about the fashion statement I would be making with the new hat.

He said, “It matches your coat. It will be fine. It’s very cold now. You need something to keep your head warm.”

Well……not exactly a rousing endorsement. But, I decided to forge ahead. So, not only do I have a new hat,

but so does a homeless man that I met on the street. He is now the proud owner of the knitted hat with the maple leaf on it. I’m not sure if he wanted it, but he has it. And, I feel good about having given it to him.

I can’t say I am in love with my new hat.  But, I can say that it’s the warmest hat I have ever had. My head is so warm, you could fry eggs on it. Well, maybe that’s a little extreme. But, the hat….along with it’s friend the “shearling” jacket….have kept me unbelievably warm in the last 2 days that I have been exploring Montreal. I have also attracted some attention with the hat. When I was on the Metro today,

a few people came up to me to compliment me on the hat. One of them said it made me look like I knew what I was doing. Hmmm……I wonder what that means? I’m taking it as a positive. Why not……

I’m guessing that I will be happy to have the hat when I get to Quebec, too. It is darn cold here and will be there, too. But, I am loving it! And, honestly, in these days of being too hot most of the time (you know what I am talking about) I am finding the cold to be a welcome relief.

I will update you on my actual “travel” adventures on the next post. But, I had to tell you about my new hat.

So, you say…..

”Who dat?”

I say…..

“Dat me”

…in my new hat….. and my “Shearling” jacket…..

….rockin’ Montreal …..

“Dat’s all for now….”

I’ve Been Working on the Railroad…..

Well……actually…..I’ve been sleeping……..in the railroad station…in Scranton, PA…during my recent trip to the east coast. I spent two splendid nights at the former Lackawanna Train Station, now the Radisson Hotel, getting a good night’s sleep and a history lesson about Scranton.

If you’ve been to Scranton, you know that it’s not the most “happening” place in the world.

In fact, I wouldn’t have come here except that I wanted to visit some people in the neighboring towns and this seemed like a central location. When I started out, I knew there wasn’t much there, but when I took a walk around town and did my usual interview of the locals for interesting sights to see, they all said,

“Have you been to the Radission? It’s the most interesting thing here. That’s pretty much it.”

They were right. But, after my few days, I would say that if this is your only claim to fame, it’s not too bad.  You could certainly do much worse!

During my days in Scranton, I learned that, years ago, it was a bustling coal and iron-producing center. The area had an abundance of iron ore and boasted the largest stores of anthracite coal in the world. Based on this, the Scranton family, for whom the town is named, saw the possibilities for the town through the refinement of iron ore. So, they used their resources to develop iron mills. The mills went on to produce iron rails that would then be used for the development of railroads. Rails had previously been imported from England, so this presented a perfect opportunity for the town to thrive. The ensuing rails allowed for the organization of railroads in the area that would carry coal to the eastern seaboard. Rail routes were, then, developed between New York and Scranton that led to the development of a rail system and transportation of coal throughout United States.

Scranton became a center for rail transportation and hosted a number of developing railroad companies. In the mid-1800’s, they combined to form the Delaware, Lackawanna and Western Railroad.

The first train station was a simple wood structure. But, as the economy flourished, a new train station was envisioned whose design reflected the financial success of the town. Ground was broken in 1906 and the structure was dedicated in 1908. Over the coarse of time, the coal industry was diminished due to the development of newer and more efficient fuels and, with that, rail service diminished, as well, leading to the demise of the train station and the town. The station came into disrepair until the 1980’s when it was renovated as a tourism attraction in hopes that it would draw people to the area.

Most of the features of the French Renaissance designed building are original and are, themselves, works of art beginning with the exterior. It is built of Indiana limestone with 6 columns across the front. Above the front door is an 8 foot bronze clock.

The main entrance that once led to the waiting area, but now leads to a lobby and a formal open-air restaurant, is made with Formosa, an Italian marble with a pink and yellow tinge.

The grand lobby, which is 2 stories high, is captivating with its mosaic tile floor and marble walls….

The fountain was originally outside, but was brought inside during the renovation to protect it from the elements.

As you look up, you can see a rounded, vaulted ceiling made with original Tiffany glass…..

And, there is a series of 36 tile murals that ring the walls of the lobby, whose pictures reflect the various stops of the trains.

Just fantastic!

I spent some time in the bar, which was a part of the old train platform. There, I found 2 original crystal chandeliers that were sparkly and beautiful.

The drinks were sparkly and beautiful, too!

I had been to the hotel years ago for dinner. But, I had not really paid attention to the detail and the history of the old station. I’m glad I took another look. The stay in this hotel was the most unexpected delight of my whole trip!

Even more than the building itself, though, I loved meeting the people who were actually “working on the railroad”….or, better, in the railroad station…..the Radisson Hotel. They were outstanding! On my first day there, I was walking through the lobby snapping pictures. Before too long, one of the waitresses in the formal dining room came over and offered to give me a tour of her favorite spots in the hotel. I took her up on it.

Then, when I went into the bar, the bartender walked over and offered the same thing. His favorites were different from the waitress. One of them was this “vault” which was where the proceeds of the station were kept safe.

I ate breakfast in the small café and encountered a waiter and his manager who were entertaining, and whose goal it was to be sure I had a good breakfast, good company and some good nut brittle, a side business for the waiter. I was blown away by their kindness and attention. And, I was impressed that the management team supported the efforts of the waiter in his business endeavor.

I can honestly say that I have ever encountered a group of staff members who were more welcoming. But, it was the pride in their work and in the workplace itself that was so very notable. Each person had his own perspective on the history of the structure and had found his place among the artifacts. It was evident that they felt like more than just employees and found themselves to be a part of the story of the old train station.

So, this is where I will leave you….thinking about the sounds of trains clacking along the tracks, visions of the grandeur of the building and the allure of the stories that unfolded there.

All aboard……….

Every Picture Tells a Story……

Like this one…..

And, this one…..

When I travel, or when I have a special occasion…or just when I see something that I think is interesting or cute, I take a picture. I’m guessing you do, too! It’s part of the joy of life…documenting images of things we want to remember!

It’s fun!

Years ago, my husband, who came from a long line of professional photographers and who was quite talented himself, introduced me to the basics of taking photographs. It was a skill that has added to my “joie de vivre”over the years! He taught me some of the most important elements such as how to best use the available light, how to frame the scene in an interesting way, and how to identify subjects that would, indeed, actually make a good photograph. Over the years, under his tutelage and with his encouragement, I learned to use a point and shoot Polaroid camera, a 35-millimeter camera and, a digital camera, and probably some others that I can’t remember!

Now, I just use my iPhone. That works pretty well, too!

The basics of light, framing, and subject is always the same, but the development of the cameras has made it increasingly easier for me to take a very suitable picture…..or to adjust my picture so that it is very suitable……or to just keep taking pictures until I actually get one that is suitable. It always amazes me at the end of a trip of how many good pictures I have and how easy it is to erase the ones that are not. Also fun!

Amateur photography has come a long way, baby!

But, it all started with George Eastman, who took what had been a very complex process and simplified it so that we could all get some satisfaction out of documenting our stories through pictures. This was the type of person that George Eastman was….always interested in bettering the lives of the “common man”. He, after all, began his journey as just a “regular guy” who never even completed high school. With some brains, hard work and compassion he built the Kodak Company and revolutionized photography!

I learned all of this and more during my “East Coast Boogie” in the last weeks when I visited the George Eastman Museum. It was another one of my museum stops that was well worth my time. It would be worth your time, too, if you are around and about Rochester.

Most people know about Eastman’s contributions in the photography world. Most of us have had a Kodak camera or at least some film. A lesser known fact is that he made a wide range of contributions to include world-wide humanitarian efforts that changed people’s lives for the better. Some of them were so effective that they are still in play, albeit in different formats.

George Eastman made a lot of money. There’s no denying that. And, he used it to enhance the pleasure in his life and that of his family.  There’s no denying that, either.  This was evident in the grand house that he built in Rochester, which is now the museum. He wanted a large “country” house in the city. So, he built it.

He wanted extensive gardens where he could sit and commune with nature, so he built them.

He wanted a farm planted with fruits and vegetables, so he built one. He wanted farm animals, so he bought them.  If he wanted it, he got it. That’s just how he was.

The house itself was decadent….

……and was the site of many fancy parties and gatherings with friends. It also showcased Eastman’s many interests, such as his love of music. He had a strong affinity for organ music and had this extravagant pipe organ in his “conservatory”.

The pipes extended to the second floor of the house. And, he had an organist on staff to provide music at different times of the day. When the organist wasn’t there to play the organ, the organ played itself….via a large collection of music rolls from which Eastman chose depending on his mood.

He also liked to hunt and had this head of an elephant on display in the conservatory.

So…..Eastman enjoyed his money! I like that about him. I also like that he had a variety of interests. It gives him depth.

What most people don’t know is that he took a lot of that money and gave it away so that other people could enjoy their lives, too, and have a better quality of living. He donated over 100 million dollars to educational and arts organizations. He was a generous employer and gave some of his money to his employees in the form of profit sharing and bonus’. He created healthcare programs and started clinics all over the world where people could get free dental care, medical attention and have minor surgical procedures done that would enhance and improve their lives. Some of these clinics are still viable, including one in Belgium. He started a charitable organization called the “Community Chest” that has since evolved into our United Way. And, he created the very first employee pension system. It was so good, that Roosevelt used it as a format for what we now know as Social Security.

It’s quite a legacy for someone from such a humble background.

As Eastman aged, he developed some issues with his back, spine and muscles that left movement difficult and painful. It limited him. He didn’t like that. So, one day he was at a doctor’s visit and as the doctor was listening to his heart, Eastman said to the doctor,

“Exactly, where is my heart?”

The doctor pointed it out on Eastman’s body. A few days later, Eastman went to his room and took out one of two guns that he had and shot himself in the heart. He had the second gun in case the first one failed. He wasn’t depressed or down-hearted. He was just done.

He left this statement, now a famous quote, “My work is done. Why wait?”

Indeed…….

There’s really nothing more to say about this remarkable person who did so much for so many people, and left us with a way to remember the stories of our lives.  But, I can tell you this.  I will be thinking about him the next time I take out my trusty iPhone to snap a picture…maybe you will be, too.

Every picture tells a story…..

Here’s to the next one….

This has been my mantra about Paris since the first time I visited there many years ago. I know how cliché it sounds, but Paris has been my favorite refuge over the years. And, indeed, at the times in my life when I felt the need to get away, get inspired or just get in touch with myself, I have fled to Paris. There’s something about the bustle of the people, the art, the music the food, the language…..I’m not sure exactly what it is, but it’s invigorating and I always come away feeling re-energized and excited about life. I have the same feelings after my trip to New York City this past week.

I had been to New York City many times when I was working. I had a satellite office there, right above Penn Station. I would take the train from Washington, DC about twice a month to my office, work the day and then head out and about in the evenings in Time Square for a fun evening at the theater, or a shopping spree or a nice dinner. I thought I knew the city fairly well. But, in reality, I never strayed too far from this part of the city. I didn’t have time. I was working. So, as I walked through the city for the last few days, I was amazed at how much is here….and how much I had missed all of those years ago.

I was in need of a museum fix, which was why I decided to add New York City to my itinerary this time. I had never visited the museums in the city and thought at the very least, this would tide me over until I could get to Paris. The Upper East Side of the city seemed like a perfect location.

I was right!

Each morning when I walked out of my hotel, I was reminded of the quiet section of Madrid and the residential area of Rome where I stayed during some visits a number of years back. There were people bustling around all of the time and there was significant traffic, but it was quiet somehow. I could sit peacefully at the outdoor café around the corner from my hotel, sip my coffee and read or add to my blog. I could easily and safely walk around my neighborhood and do some window- shopping in the variety of upscale shops on the adjacent streets. I could also walk a few blocks in any direction and find a great restaurant for a meal when I was hungry.

“Museum row” started just a few blocks from the hotel. I walked along 5^th Avenue, a very pleasant tree lined street that runs along the east side of “Central Park”.

One could stroll or take a rest on one of the many benches along the way and watch the people, get a snack from one of the many food carts along the way….

….or wander among the many booths that housed artists showing their wares.

It was quite pleasant.

First, I visited the “Met”.

There, I was happy to find artwork of every kind. I could have been visiting the “Louvre” in France or the “Prado” in Madrid.   As often occurs for me, I happened into the museum just as a tour was starting. This one was a highlights tour of the museum. Perfect! I joined in and found the “docent” who escorted us to be very informative and also entertaining. She walked us through some of the great works to include a painting of the “Waterlilies” by Monet,

a “painting within a painting” by Matisse, and a wooden African sculpture that had, what looked like “shrapnel” sticking out all over his body. The guide helped us to interpret what we were seeing. It was fascinating and gave us a basis for viewing the other works of art that we would see on our own in the museum.

All of the great masters were there. When I viewed the Cezanne painting of “Mount Sainte Victoire”, I was reminded of my stay in Aix en Provence where I viewed many renditions of Cezanne’s beloved mountain.   It reminded me of my lively afternoon hike on the mountain with a group of retired French folks that I met along the way. My apartment there had a view of the mountain and, so, I studied it often and came away with my own perspective on its beauty. It was fun to, once again, compare notes with Cezanne.

I was intrigued at the “Met” by the roof top garden and café that had it’s own fun works of art in the form of white, digitally produced sculptures laid out on long dining tables that looked like they were ready for diners to sit and join them for a meal.

And, the city view from this vantage point was spectacular.

I visited the “Frick Museum” the next day,

which reminded me in ambiance of the “Momarton” Museum in Paris, a house that displayed different types of artwork, but primarily Monets. The “Frick” didn’t have any Monet’s, but the intimacy of the museum was the same. The small size allowed me to move at my own pace through the museum, get up close to the art and form my own opinions. It was delightful.

When I stepped into the impressionist section of the Museum of Modern Art (MoMA), much to my surprise, I found a long panel of the Monet “waterlilies”…

….that transported me back to my visits to my favorite museum in Paris, l’Orangerie. L’Orangerie contains a section with 2 circular rooms that display long panels of the Monet “waterlilies”. They are connected together without a break between and present as one scene on the walls of the circular room. I love how you can sit in the middle of the room and feel like you are sitting in the middleof the garden of Giverny itself where these works were painted. The room in MoMA had this same feel, although the works were not quite as extensive.

MoMA had a wide variety of works to look at….

,

….as well as a display on Frank Lloyd Wright, which I found very interesting  .

Saturday, when I had had my fill of museums, I ventured down to “Time Square” to see if I could find tickets for a play.

As I looked up at the tall buildings, the lighted marquis, the huge screens with scrolling advertisements and the masses of people walking along the streets, I was reminded of the spectacle of Las Vegas. Just as when I have visited Vegas, I loved absorbing the chaotic energy that was generated. It was invigorating.

I stood in line at the discount ticket booth and began to talk to the people who were standing in line with me about the plays….which ones they saw and liked. After some interviewing, I decided on “Beautiful”, the story of Carole King.

It was just great. The person who played Carole King was outstanding and I enjoyed hearing her music that was popular back when I was in college.

I also learned that she wrote many familiar tunes that were performed by other artists.  Who knew!  My reward for standing in the discount ticket line was a seat in the 4^th row on the aisle. The seat, and the play were both fantastic!

Walking back to my hotel, I happened on to a street fair that reminded me of the markets that I have seen in France, Germany, Switzerland, and in my own hometown. There were booths selling all kinds of things….hats, dresses, food of all types ….just about anything you could think of.

And, did I mention the fine meals that I had throughout? They were all fantastic!

And, now, as I am writing this post, I am thinking about how I was right there in one city that, literally, offered me all of the things I love the most about traveling. And, I have only skimmed the surface!

I left New York City feeling satiated…physically and intellectually. And….I am wondering where else in the world I could go for a mere few days and come away with this much satisfaction.

I’m drawing a blank.

New York City might be my new Paris……

…..or at least a close second……

It will always be a good idea.

One of the things that has made this trip so interesting for me so far is the odd mix of destinations I have chosen to visit. I’m trying to connect with family and friends and, so, had a number of random locations that I was trying to figure into the mix. It left me a bit all over the map in my travels. My path makes good logical and linear sense. But, it lacks a bit of practicality. For example…….

Who wants to drive into New York City?!

Not me.

I have been to New York City. I know what the traffic is like. But, I wanted to go from the Finger Lakes to Scranton, PA and then to New York City. Try as I might to find a reasonable public transportation option from one to the next, I was unsuccessful. So, driving was the only way.

And, so, it was a plan!

I have seen some wide and varied scenery in my driving extravaganza, to include the winding roads of rural Pennsylvania and New York to the bumper to bumper traffic of New York City……and everything else in between. You can’t get too much more diversity than all of that!

The first leg of my driving experience was very leisurely and, I have to admit, just plain fun! When I left the Finger Lakes to go to Scranton, Bill and Linda at the bed and breakfast suggested that I bypass Route 81. I remember Route 81 from my visit to the Scranton area probably 15 years ago. There was a lot of construction being done on the road. Apparently, it’s still going on!

What?! How is that possible?!

The thought of hours of sitting in heavy traffic, convinced me that I should take the back roads.  It was a longer drive, but not that much. And, really, what else did I have to do?

I went through every small town between the Finger Lakes and Scranton. I encountered cars, trucks, farming equipment, bicycles, Amish horse and buggy set ups…..pretty much anything you can think of.

I also saw lots of agriculture…mostly corn, but some cabbage as well. It reminded me of our cross-country trip from the DC area to California nearly 10 years ago. All we could see for miles into the horizon were the tassels on the top of the corn plants.

This was like that.

I stopped to take this photograph so that you could all see it.

Almost had my car door taken off on this small road, too. Forgot to close the car door when I got out to take the photo. It was very exciting!

Up and down I went over the mountains and wound myself through the twisting roads. The scenery was beautiful. I stopped to stretch at this lovely vista!

When I got hungry and wanted to stop for a bite to eat, I was again reminded of our cross-country trip. There were not a lot of choices. I made a stop at the “Dandy” truck stop.

I saw them everywhere….a small regional chain, I think. I got myself some water and some pretzels. When I got back to my car I looked up and saw this sign next to the door of the convenience store that was part of the “Dandy”.

They were advertising “Fried Twinkies”! I could have had one of those. Apparently, the “Dandy” is known for this delicacy.

I’ll pass….fried “Twinkies”….are they kidding? Not for this gal!

As I continued to drive, I continued to think about the “Twinkie”. Silly “Dandy” store. Who fries a “Twinkie”? Then, I looked to the side of the road and saw a sign for the “Better Choice Restaurant”.

“Better than what?” I wondered. “The place selling the Fried Twinkies?” I’m guessing anything would be better than that!

You get the picture.

I was glad to reach Scranton where, after I settled in, I was able to muster a very nice salad and a reasonable beer.

No “Twinkies”! HA!

I did my visiting in Scranton and then headed on to New York City. The back way to New York City was 5 hours as opposed to the 3-hour route that included some highways. Honestly, I was getting tired of driving and just wanted to get somewhere, so I took the quicker route on the highway through the Poconos. It was still a pretty ride, just shorter and more traffic wth lots of trucks. I stopped for a coffee and filled my gas tank in Stroudsburg. Cute town!

As I pulled into New York City, I looked down at my gas meter. It was only 1/2 filled. What?! How can that be? I had filled the tank not too long ago. After some thought, I surmised that I had probably pulled the nozzle out of the gas tank too early before the tank had time to fill. How was I going to find gas in New York City? Do they even have gas in the city? I considered just turning it in without filling it, but the gas replacement cost was about $10.00 per gallon…..too much for this frugal traveler. I would drop my luggage at the hotel and then seek out some gas before returning the car.

The driving experience in New York City was just what you are imagining…bumper to bumper traffic, lots of taxis weaving in and out, no turn signals, cars double and triple parked that you couldn’t anticipate….

……You know, chaos……

I sat in traffic without moving for 10-15 minutes at a time. It was nuts! So, when my new renter texted me with a question, I had plenty of time to respond. We resolved her dilemma, and I texted her about what I was doing. She instructed me to “lay on the horn”. Good advice that I had already given myself. It’s about the only thing the drivers respond to here, albeit one of the most benign actions one can take in traffic. I can never figure out how people think that honking the horn will make the traffic move faster.

After about an hour, I pulled up to the hotel, met a person outside that appeared to be a bell clerk and dropped my luggage. I neglected to get a claim ticket, which I didn’t even give a second thought until I was almost at the gas station about 30 blocks away. Just then, I wondered whether the guy I had entrusted with my luggage really did work for the hotel. Maybe….. he was just there dressed as a bell clerk, but was really stealing luggage. I mulled this over as I filled my tank….

…..and decided that because there was nothing I could do about this issue, I would take a more positive stance. I would believe in the goodness of people and assume that my luggage had made it inside the hotel. If it wasn’t there, I would have the opportunity to do some shopping!

I filled my tank, drove back through the traffic about 20 blocks to the Hertz drop off and left my car, and then walked the last 10 blocks back to the hotel.  My total route was about 50 blocks. It took me 2 hours.

The hotel had some difficulty locating my luggage. Oh no……

But, guess what! There is was right on the luggage rack where I left it. I was so happy! There really are good people out there….even in New York City!

So, now I am getting to know my New York City neighborhood on foot, which is a much more pleasant way to explore the city.  I’ll let you know what I find!

Signing off…….

Miss Betsy Walking….. in New York City!

“One can never be too thin or too rich”…..or have too much breakfast…

Hmmm……

I might take that back….the breakfast part anyway….after four days with owners Bill and Linda at the Oliver Phelps Bed and Breakfast in Canandaigua in the beautiful Finger Lakes of New York.

For those of you who know me well, you know that I am a bit of a lightweight eater. Don’t get me wrong, I like good food and I like to eat, but I can’t consume a lot at one time. My tummy just can’t fit it all in…and, if I try to fit in too much…well….I’ll just let you mull that over…..no detail necessary.

Also, I don’t eat a lot of sugary treats. I can…but, I just don’t. So, a little bit of sugar goes a long way with me. I’ll just say that it gives me more than my fair share of a “jolt” of energy. So, you can imagine my reaction to the very large and primarily dessert oriented breakfasts that were presented each morning of my stay at the Oliver Phelps.

Oh boy!!

Each day of my stay at “Chez Bill and Linda”, (aka Oliver Phelps,) Linda lovingly prepared a very decadent 3-course breakfast for those of us lucky enough to stay there. They were heavenly and dessert-like.

Each day was even more delicious than the last…..I just couldn’t get enough.

Neither could anyone else.

But, by the third day of my four-day stay, I and my new bed and breakfast friends began to pace ourselves. We had to, if we were going to enjoy the other nice restaurants in Canandaigua, that is.

Despite it all, I ate the breakfasts….happily….I might add. They were delicious. But, let’s just say that I was on a carb high for my first few days on the road and am still, at about one week into my trip….feeling very full!

A bed and breakfast is not usually my choice of lodging when traveling. I’m not sure why. It just never crossed my mind.  But, the idea of such a place was appealing to me for this trip. When I travel, I like to get a good breakfast and then just pick around at things for lunch and have a nice dinner. Breakfast already built into the cost of my lodging was a great option, it seemed! What I didn’t realize was how big the breakfast would be…… and how many carbs would be involved!

I began to realize that one actually could have enough….or possibly too much breakfast. But, it was worth it! It was just so darn good!

I will add a brief side note here that my pants still button. I find this comforting right now….

I loved everything about the Oliver Phelps. I loved having access to Bill, one of our hosts, who knew all about the local wine region and could give me recommendations of the best places for tasting wine in the whole of the Finger Lakes.

I loved that when I came back from my day of exploring and wanted some camomile tea and couldn’t find it among the options of flavors that had been left out for the guests, Bill went into the kitchen and found some for me….and found me some honey, too.

I loved that I slept in a bed and stayed in a room that reminded me of home.

I loved that it was easy to walk up the street to the quaint downtown area of Canandaigua and enjoy the cute shops in town…..

……and could walk right up to the lake to enjoy the scenery……

……and the local color.

Check out the inside of this little house.  There were rows of them right on the water.  I am always thinking about another place to live….maybe this is an option!   Hmmmmm…..

I loved that dinner was an easy walk to the town. I could have a glass of wine and not worry about driving.

And, I loved that I could easily meet other travelers and compare notes about fun things to do in the area.

It was nearly perfect.

Nearly…….

My only issues in the whole mix of things were the carb issue…and…..the fact that I’m not really a morning person. It takes me awhile to get started in the morning. And, I sometimes feel grumpy at having to get up. So, facing a bright-eyed and bushy-tailed group in the morning was somewhat challenging for me. But, I did it, because the end result was entertaining conversation! I met some very interesting, intelligent and fun people!

I will put on my happy morning face anytime if it means I can hear some fun stories.

I am in New York City now, land of amazing food. So, I’m hoping that tomorrow morning when I get up, I will no longer be full, and that I will feel like eating some of the amazing New York City food!

I am cautiously optimistic.

I’ll keep you posted!