A number of years ago, I traveled to Paris with my sister and her family. I was between jobs and they needed someone to fill in a space to make a double in one of the rooms. Aside of the fact that, even then, I was a fun traveler….HA!……there was an issue of cost. It’s always more expensive to have someone in a single room. It’s always better to share the cost with another person. So, I agreed to go along, on the condition that my sister would be OK with me leaving the group from time to time to have an adventure or two on my own. Seemed OK to them, so I signed up. It was a fun trip that was highlighted by a solo adventure by train from Paris to Lyon for lunch at the Paul Bocuse restaurant.
The story is a good one and, if you are interested in hearing it, give me a call. I love sharing it! It always makes me smile! Suffice to say that I had the greatest meal I had ever had to that point….and….I met Paul Bocuse himself. He gave me a great big kiss on the lips, put his arm around me and, under the restaurant sign, happily posed for a picture with me…..which I still have. I was reminded again of this story as we left Lyon today on our way to Strasbourg for Christmas. As the train pulled away, I looked up and out the window and what did I see but the very restaurant where I had that experience all those years ago. It was a fun “déjà vous” !
Paul Bocuse, for those of you who may not know, is a famous chef who made a name for himself, and a little bit of money I’m guessing, with his Lyon based Michelin rated restaurant and the “brasseries” that followed. Actually, he was one of the pioneers, along with Julia Child, who introduced us Americans to the finer points of eating…. and French food. He helped to carve out a place for “fine dining” all over the world.
Paul is an institution in Lyon as is evidenced by the above-mentioned restaurant and brasseries, a cooking school and the multiple and many references to him throughout the city. I think there is also a connection to him with the small restaurants, called “bouchons” that serve “typical Lyonnaise” food.” It appears that in order to be called a “bouchon”, one must have a certificate of authenticity. I’m guessing that Paul Bocuse had a hand in this one, too!
Lyon is a place for good eating, and I have to say that we easily followed this path during our visit there. We did make it around to one of the four Paul Bocuse “brasseries”, to one of the most traditional “ bouchons”….and to one that was not so traditional…..and we had dinner at the restaurant of the arch enemy of Paul Bocuse, Georges Blanc. (This felt very sinister and a little disloyal…..but, the food was really good!) Wrap that up with a couple of visits to some “patissiers” and the Christmas market where we had sauerkraut with sausage, potatoes in a cream and chive sauce and some “vin chaud” (hot wine), and I would say that we have been, as Mike says, “diabolically saracified”.
My tummy is full of this yummy food!
You will be happy to know that we did more than just eat. I know it’s hard to believe. But, Lyon is also a fantastic city in many other ways as well. The views and the skylines are lovely, the shopping is great and here, as in many of the places I have visited on this trip, one is compelled to just wander through the city and look. And, being here at Christmas is very special. One can really feel the excitement of the holiday with the decorations, lights and festive spirit of the people! I loved it!
I spent a fair amount of time wandering through the Bellecour section of the city, which is where we stayed in our hotel that overlooked the Rhone River. According to the taxi driver that brought us in from the train station, this is the best positioned area of the city…..right in the middle of everything. We were on Presqu’ile, a piece of land reminiscent of an island, between the Rhone River and the Saone River. The driver was right, it was a great location….easy to walk to many of the main sites of the city…..and to the best restaurants!
I was ready to have a first class hotel experience, and, so we did this at the Sofitel, another hotel offered by the Accor Hotel chain that I told you about in the last post. It’s on the other end of the ambiance scale from the Ibis Styles. I loved them both, but they were very different. We had a little bit of pampering and a great view!
In our Bellecour section there was a lot of high end shopping and eating. We bought a few things, not many. Mostly, just “leche-vitrine” (window shopping) and walked. It was fun!
On one of the days, I wandered over the bridge crossing the Saone River and explored “Vielle Lyon” (old Lyon). It was different from the Bellecour section with old buildings and tiny, narrow streets lined with shops, cafés and restaurants. Lyon is also known for overhangs that connect the old buildings together. There were a number of these in the older section that were interesting to explore.
On our last day, I convinced Mike that he should go with me to visit the old church on the top of the hill beyond the Saone River. It was the coldest day we had in Lyon. I don’t know what the temperature was, but we were both formed into a block of ice when we got back the hotel room. (I’m still thawing out!)
We climbed up the hill to the church by “funicular”. Not only was the view spectacular, but the church was also quite grand and on par with many of the larger old churches I have seen on this trip. It was well worth the visit.
So, “that’s about all folks” on the visit to Lyon. I liked it so much that I may go back next year in the fall for some more French classes and maybe some cooking classes. There is a “Paul Bocuse Cooking Institute” near the hotel where we stayed.
I have checked it out, and I’m sure they will be willing to accept me should I dare to do this. I feel the need to support the mission of Paul Bocuse for fine and elegant dining. And, what better way to further my prowess with the french language. After that, I will need to buy a new wardrobe to accommodate my new dress size. I think I can do that in Lyon, too.
Stay tuned!
Travel With Betsy 
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