Do you have any obsessions? I do. I get started thinking about something and I can’t stop until I have either done it or resolved it in my mind. I have many examples…some better than others……wine, good food, learning something new (like a new language), travel, meeting new people, crazy thoughts (like being abducted by aliens)….the list goes on and on depending on the moment. You have read about my obsessions a number of times in the last years since I have been writing my blog. And, those of you who know me the best get to hear about them on a very regular basis…the good, bad and the ugly.
The things we become obsessed with are kind of interesting sometimes. Mine are no different. On the surface, they seem quite disconnected. But, as I was thinking about this, I decided that my obsessions are actually closely related. They are tied together with one common theme. I’m obsessed with testing myself and taking just the right amount of risk to see how much is possible in any given circumstance. There’s a real knack to getting the balance on this. And, I have to say that I haven’t always been successful. But I will say that I think I’m getting better…or, maybe I’m just getting lucky. Either way, I put it to the test last week during my visit to Mont Sainte Victoire. Let me know if you agree.
As you know from earlier posts, I am here in Aix en Provence without a car. There are a number of problems with having a car here for a three month period. First, it’s expensive to rent a car here, the gas prices are quite high, and then there’s the issue of parking the car…..also not cheap or convenient. Further, I don’t know how to drive a manual shift car. So if I have a car here, I need to have an automatic shift. They are difficult to find and very expensive…they can be more than twice the cost of renting a manual shift car. From a cost perspective, it doesn’t make any sense. So, I decided early on that I would use public transportation as much as possible and only rent a car if I wanted to do something that wasn’t accessible by public transport. Luckily, I am an expert a using the trains and buses to my advantage. I’ve had lots of practice!
Last week, I decided to really explore my options of places to visit using the very extensive bus system here. I hadn’t been to Mont Sainte-Victoire yet, and, so, decided this would be my first target. The friendly folks at the Tourist Information office gave me two options of how to do this by bus. So, I was off last week to explore the great mountain that was so captivating to Paul Cezanne.
After reviewing the routes, I decided that I would begin my adventure by visiting Le Barrage de Bimont, a “barrage” (dam) at the Lake de Bimont on the edge of the mountain. The dam was built between 1946 and 1951 by an engineer named Joseph Rigaud. It provides water supply to several of the local areas and helps to reinforce the water supply to Marseille. Beautiful and functional! From the “barrage”, I could do some walking into the mountain on one of the many paths leading from the lake. I didn’t really want to do any strenuous hiking, as I don’t have the proper shoes. And, I still have the issue with my back that kicks in every now and then. This plan would allow me to take my time, sit when I wanted to and quit when I needed to. So, I was off! Very exciting!
The bus connection was easy. YAY!
As I was leaving the bus, I asked the “chauffeur” (driver) where I would find the stop for the return to Aix. He pointed it out to me. I thanked him and went on. The man who got off the bus in front of me must have heard me ask and assumed that I didn’t know what I was doing (rightly so, I really didn’t have much of a plan). Anyway, he walked with me on the road to the “barriage” and gave me some pointers on proper walking etiquette (really?!).
As we were walking along, we established fairly quickly that I would not be walking along with him for the day. He took one look at my shoes and said, “You don’t have the right shoes for the hike I want to take.” I agreed….and, truth be told, was quite relieved!
I learned that he is a professor at the University here. He teaches political science, or some such thing, in the mornings. (Our conversation was in french, so I may have missed a thing or two.) He is an avid hiker. As soon as his classes are over, he grabs his backpack, gets on the bus and races to the mountain to hike. Good for him!
When we reached the “barrage”, together we reviewed the information map that was available in the parking lot, and he helped me to form my walking plan for the day. I was going to walk to the “Relais Cezanne” and then walk to a nearby parking area where I could catch another bus back to Aix. Very nice guy to help me with this solid plan.
The next minute, he was off, and I was left to view the lake and the “barrage”. It was quite a scene. The day was bright and sunny and, so the lake reflected the intense colors of the sky. I am finding that in the areas here where there is a substantial water feature, the waters are an unbelievable turquoise color. With the backdrop of remaining summer green along with the changing leaves of fall in vibrant orange and yellow colors, the scene is breathtaking. This was no different. And, toss Mont Sainte-Victoire into the mix and and it’s quite something. There were a few small sailboats in the water. Otherwise, the water was still and calm. It was quite relaxing.
I spent quite a bit of time there just looking at the splendor of it all, and then decided that I had better begin my walk. In truth, I wasn’t sure I wanted to go as far as my professor friend had suggested. But, I could at least begin walking. I could turn back anytime.
It’s been awhile since I have done any real walking in a place like this. Signage was minimal and somewhat hard to decipher. So, I cautiously decided that I would stay to the main path so that I could find my way back. OK. Good plan. I stopped to take some pictures of the mountain as I went. It was spectacular. At one junction, I came across a group of people walking together. One of the women offered to take a picture of me with the mountain in the background. Thanks!
I asked the woman if I was heading in the direction of the “Relais Cezanne”. She said yes and pointed the direction. They were heading in that direction and offered that I could walk with them. So, I did. The group of us chatted and chatted, en français, I might add (not many english speakers in this group). I learned that this was a group of retired men and women who meet every Thursday to do something active. From what I could gather, they all belong to a local organization of retirees that provides activities for free. I later learned that there is an option for them to do something every day if they wanted to do it. But, this particular group of people were mostly interested in physical activity and, so, organized an outing each week to do something active. This was their outing for the week! Fun!
Chat, chat, chat……and before I knew it, I was off the main path and didn’t know where I was…..sigh……I kept asking about where the “Relais Cezanne” was and they kept saying we were heading that way. Finally, the woman who appeared to be leading the group asked (in broken english) why I wanted to go there. I said that I was hoping to get a bus from there back to Aix. She said I must have made a mistake because there were no buses from there. It was out in the middle of nowhere. Uh Oh! When we finally got to a place where I could see the spot I was looking for, I saw what she meant and realized that I had either made a mistake or had a miscommunication with the group or my professor friend. Nonetheless, at this point it didn’t matter too much. One thing I did know was that I didn’t want to go to the “Relais Cezanne”….too hard to walk and very remote. Not a good idea, especially by myself.
The group leader invited me to continue to walk with them. They were heading back to a town called Tholonet, where their cars were parked. I knew I could get a bus from there, and so continued to walk along with them. They were a fun and engaging group and it gave me a good opportunity to practice my french.
This group of older people (all were at least 65 years old….several quite a bit older) who were in better shape than most people half their age, and also in better shape than me! It was, to say the least, a challenging walk. We were up the mountain and down the mountain on roads, paths, trails….some through mud puddles! At one point, one of the men lent me his walking stick to help pull myself up the steep path. And, the last small piece of the walk consisted of “scaling” down the side of the mountain. It wasn’t far, but treacherous…..I was glad to have the walking stick. They were all very kind and offered a hand to me when the trail seemed rough.
Finally, we reached the bottom and the town where the cars were parked. I was going to take the bus back, but the woman leading the group wouldn’t hear of it. She lived in Aix and was happy to take me into town. She was going that way, after all.
I’m happy to say that I made it back to my apartment alive and well. (I realize it could have gone another way!) And, my back is crying out a little…not too much….it could be worse. But, talk about pushing the envelope on risk in oh, so many ways! Probably won’t be doing this again! But……maybe……..
What a great day! Fun times with an unexpected group of fun people! I think it was fun for them to have me along, too. At one point, they insisted on a group picture with me. I got one, too! I think they were intrigued with an American doing this on her own. I have been intrigued myself from time to time on this journey. This was one such day!
I have learned a few things from my day with the group. First, age doesn’t matter as much as we think. These 65 year old and older people were staying “young” by keeping up with physical activity and group connection. It can be done, folks! I have witnessed it!
Second, I can do more walking and hiking than I think I can, although, this was probably on the edge. But, still doable!
Third, my obsession with being abducted is in high gear now. I should have taken a map with me and been much more cautious. This was a very nice group of people, and I wouldn’t give back this day for anything. But, it really could have turned out differently. Food for thought!
And lastly, the bus system here in Aix is amazing! I can get to many of the small towns in the mountain by bus. Vey exciting for me to know as I plan my last weeks here. I can even get to some of the local wine tasting areas. This is on my list of things to do in the next week or two. I’ll keep you posted. I’m hoping for good weather. We are now having more and more rain as we move into the winter season.
I’m signing off now by adding these few more obsessions to my list…..Mont Sainte-Victoire and the thought of staying as physically fit as possible as I age…….
And, one more obsession that I am thinking about as well. Despite my amazing day as a walker and user of public transportation, I really need to learn to drive a manual shift car so as to enhance my travel experiences.
I need a car……. and a teacher…….anyone……..anyone……….?!
Travel With Betsy 
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